Dev Deepawali
Kartik Purnima, 15 days after Diwali; usually November (lunar calendar)
Dev Deepawali falls on Kartik Purnima, the full moon about fifteen days after Diwali. Hindu belief holds that the gods descend to bathe in the Ganges on this night. From dusk, volunteers and families light clay lamps along every step of the ghats, from Ravidas Ghat in the south to Rajghat in the north, until the whole crescent of the river glows.
The evening aarti at Dashashwamedh is held on a grand scale, with more priests than usual, and there are cultural events and fireworks along the river. Hundreds of boats crowd the water to see the lamps from the river, which is the best viewpoint. The day also marks the end of the Ganga Mahotsav festival of music.
Demand is intense. Boats, hotel rooms on the ghats and seats on terraces sell out months ahead, and prices for boats rise steeply in the final weeks. Roads near the ghats close to traffic, so plan to walk. Dates follow the lunar calendar; check current status before you travel.
How to do it well
- Reserve a private boat months ahead and confirm the meeting ghat the day before.
- Stay on the ghats, such as at BrijRama Palace, to avoid road closures.
- Bring a warm layer, as November nights on the river turn cool.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is Dev Deepawali in Varanasi?
Dev Deepawali is held on Kartik Purnima, the full moon of the Hindu month of Kartik, about fifteen days after Diwali. It usually falls in November, occasionally in late October. The exact date is set by the lunar calendar each year; check current status before you travel.
What is the best way to see Dev Deepawali?
From a boat on the Ganges, which shows the full sweep of lamp-lit ghats. Book a private boat months in advance, as demand is enormous. A terrace on a ghat-side hotel is the next best option. The steps themselves become extremely crowded.
How crowded is Varanasi during Dev Deepawali?
Very. Hundreds of thousands of visitors come, roads near the river close to traffic and the ghats fill shoulder to shoulder. Boats crowd the water. With a reserved boat, a guide and a hotel on or near the ghats, it is manageable and well worth it.
How far ahead should I book for Dev Deepawali?
Six months or more for hotels on the ghats and good boats. BrijRama Palace and other river hotels sell out early. Boat prices rise sharply in the last weeks. We start planning Dev Deepawali journeys in the spring for a November date.
Festival journeys
Routes built around the calendar
