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Answer-first guides from our planners: when to go, what permits you need, which hotels and which zones, with the numbers.

Nepal

Best time to visit Nepal: a month-by-month guide
Nepal · 6 min read Best time to visit Nepal: a month-by-month guide

October and November are the best months to visit Nepal: dry, clear air and the sharpest mountain views of the year. March and April …

Chitwan vs Bardia: which Nepal safari park
Nepal · 6 min read Chitwan vs Bardia: which Nepal safari park

Choose Chitwan for an easy first safari: a 25-minute flight from Kathmandu, reliable rhino sightings and more lodge choice. Choose Bardia for wilderness and …

Everest mountain flight vs helicopter tour
Nepal · 6 min read Everest mountain flight vs helicopter tour

Choose the Everest mountain flight if you want a one-hour dawn view of the peaks for a modest cost, with no altitude risk. Choose …

Nepal festivals calendar: month by month
Nepal · 6 min read Nepal festivals calendar: month by month

Nepal's biggest festivals fall between late August and November: Indra Jatra in Kathmandu, Dashain and Tihar nationwide, and Mani Rimdu at Tengboche. Spring brings …

A 10-day Nepal plan for first-time visitors
Nepal · 6 min read A 10-day Nepal plan for first-time visitors

For a first visit, spend 10 days and 9 nights this way: three nights in Kathmandu for the valley's heritage and an Everest mountain …

Nepali food: what to eat and where
Nepal · 6 min read Nepali food: what to eat and where

Nepali food starts with dal bhat, lentils with rice, vegetables and pickle, eaten twice a day across the country. Around it sit momo dumplings, …

Kathmandu Valley heritage sites: the seven zones
Nepal · 6 min read Kathmandu Valley heritage sites: the seven zones

The Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site, inscribed by UNESCO in 1979, has seven monument zones: the Durbar Squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, the …

Luxury lodges and hotels of Nepal
Nepal · 6 min read Luxury lodges and hotels of Nepal

Nepal's best stays are small, characterful lodges rather than big resorts. In Kathmandu we use Dwarika's Hotel; in Dhulikhel, Dwarika's Resort; in Pokhara, Tiger …

Walking in Nepal for non-trekkers
Nepal · 6 min read Walking in Nepal for non-trekkers

You do not need to be a trekker to walk in Nepal. Short guided walks from lodges near Dhulikhel, Bandipur and Pokhara take two …

Nepal visas and trekking permits explained
Nepal · 6 min read Nepal visas and trekking permits explained

Most visitors get a Nepal visa on arrival at Kathmandu airport: USD 30 for 15 days, USD 50 for 30 days, USD 125 for …

Rajasthan

Jaipur in three days
Rajasthan · 5 min read Jaipur in three days

Three days is the right amount of time for Jaipur. Day one: Amber Fort at opening and the bazaars at dusk. Day two: Jantar …

Jawai or Ranthambore: leopards or tigers
Rajasthan · 5 min read Jawai or Ranthambore: leopards or tigers

Choose Ranthambore for tigers in a national park with lakes and ruins, and Jawai for leopards on open granite hills among villages. Ranthambore is …

Best time to visit Rajasthan, month by month
Rajasthan · 5 min read Best time to visit Rajasthan, month by month

The best time to visit Rajasthan is October to March, when days are 20–30 °C and nights cool. November and February are the sweet …

Block printing and crafts of Rajasthan
Rajasthan · 5 min read Block printing and crafts of Rajasthan

Rajasthan is one of the great craft regions of the world. See hand block printing in Bagru and Sanganer near Jaipur, bandhani tie-dye in …

Luxury desert camps in Rajasthan
Rajasthan · 5 min read Luxury desert camps in Rajasthan

The best luxury desert stays in Rajasthan are around Jaisalmer, where a few camps and Suryagarh offer real comfort in the Thar. Choose a …

Rajasthan festivals calendar
Rajasthan · 5 min read Rajasthan festivals calendar

Rajasthan's main festivals run from January to November: the Jaipur Literature Festival and kite flying in January, the Jaisalmer Desert Festival in February, Holi …

Rajasthan in 12 days: a first-timer's plan
Rajasthan · 5 min read Rajasthan in 12 days: a first-timer's plan

For a first visit, 12 days (11 nights) in Rajasthan covers Jaipur, Ranthambore, Udaipur and Jodhpur at a calm pace: three nights in Jaipur, …

Rajasthan palace hotels compared
Rajasthan · 6 min read Rajasthan palace hotels compared

Rajasthan's three great palace hotels are Rambagh Palace in Jaipur, Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur and the Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur, all run …

Rajasthani food: what to eat and where
Rajasthan · 5 min read Rajasthani food: what to eat and where

Rajasthani food was shaped by the desert: dried beans and berries, millet breads, ghee, yoghurt and slow-cooked meats for the royal kitchens. Try dal …

Ranthambore safari zones and how to book
Rajasthan · 5 min read Ranthambore safari zones and how to book

Ranthambore safaris run twice a day in 10 zones, in six-seat jeeps or 20-seat canters, with permits sold by the Rajasthan forest department by …

Ladakh

Acclimatisation and altitude sickness in Ladakh
Ladakh · 6 min read Acclimatisation and altitude sickness in Ladakh

Rest for 48 hours in Leh on arrival, drink 3–4 litres a day, avoid alcohol and do not sleep at Pangong, Tso Moriri or …

Best time to visit Ladakh, and when the passes open
Ladakh · 5 min read Best time to visit Ladakh, and when the passes open

May to September is Ladakh's main season, with June and September the best months. The Srinagar road usually opens in April or May, the …

Ladakh's monastery festivals through the year
Ladakh · 5 min read Ladakh's monastery festivals through the year

Ladakh's monasteries hold festivals with masked cham dances throughout the year. Hemis Tsechu in June or July is the largest; winter brings Spituk Gustor, …

Ladakh permits explained
Ladakh · 5 min read Ladakh permits explained

Leh, the Indus monasteries, the Sham valley, Lamayuru and Zanskar need no permit. Nubra, Turtuk, Pangong, Tso Moriri and Hanle do. Foreign nationals need …

Flying or driving to Ladakh: which is better
Ladakh · 5 min read Flying or driving to Ladakh: which is better

Flying to Leh is fastest, about 75 minutes from Delhi year-round, but lands you at 3,500 m with no time to adjust. Driving from …

Snow leopard trips in Ladakh: a winter guide
Ladakh · 5 min read Snow leopard trips in Ladakh: a winter guide

The best time to see snow leopards in Ladakh is February and March, when the cats follow wild sheep into the lower valleys of …

Ladakh with children and seniors
Ladakh · 5 min read Ladakh with children and seniors

Ladakh works well for families and older travellers when the plan is gentle: a slow start in Leh, nights no higher than Leh where …

Ladakhi food: what to eat and where
Ladakh · 5 min read Ladakhi food: what to eat and where

Ladakhi food is simple, warming and built on barley, wheat, butter, vegetables and apricots. Try skyu and chutagi, hand-made pasta stews; khambir bread with …

Leh in three days: a gentle first-visit plan
Ladakh · 5 min read Leh in three days: a gentle first-visit plan

Three days in Leh should start with complete rest, then build gently: the old town, the palace and Shey on day two; Thiksey at …

How to choose a camp at Pangong Tso
Ladakh · 5 min read How to choose a camp at Pangong Tso

At Pangong there are no luxury hotels, only tented camps and cottages. For most guests, the best choice is a well-run camp at Spangmik …

North East India

Assam tea estates: stays, seasons and tastings
North East India · 5 min read Assam tea estates: stays, seasons and tastings

Assam grows more than half of India's tea on the flat Brahmaputra plain. Visit between March and May for first and second flush plucking, …

Brahmaputra river cruises: what to expect
North East India · 5 min read Brahmaputra river cruises: what to expect

Brahmaputra river cruises run from about November to March on small ships between Guwahati and the Jorhat or Dibrugarh area, with shore visits to …

Hornbill Festival guide: Kohima in December
North East India · 5 min read Hornbill Festival guide: Kohima in December

The Hornbill Festival runs from 1 to 10 December every year at Kisama Heritage Village, 12 km from Kohima in Nagaland. Fly to Dimapur, …

Kaziranga safari guide: zones, season and lodges
North East India · 5 min read Kaziranga safari guide: zones, season and lodges

Kaziranga has four safari ranges: Central (Kohora), Western (Bagori), Eastern (Agaratoli) and Burapahar. It opens in phases from October and closes around May. Stay …

Meghalaya's living root bridges: a walker's guide
North East India · 5 min read Meghalaya's living root bridges: a walker's guide

Meghalaya's living root bridges are grown by Khasi and Jaintia villagers from the roots of rubber fig trees. The famous double-decker bridge at Nongriat …

A 12-day first trip to North East India
North East India · 5 min read A 12-day first trip to North East India

For a first visit, spend 12 days and 11 nights in Assam and Meghalaya: one night in Guwahati, three at Kaziranga, two in the …

North East India food: a state-by-state guide
North East India · 5 min read North East India food: a state-by-state guide

North East Indian food is light on spice and heavy on fermentation, smoke and fresh herbs. Try masor tenga and duck in Assam, jadoh …

Monsoon or dry season in North East India
North East India · 5 min read Monsoon or dry season in North East India

Visit North East India between October and April for dry roads, clear mountain views and open parks. November to February is driest. The monsoon, …

North East India permits: ILP, PAP and RAP explained
North East India · 5 min read North East India permits: ILP, PAP and RAP explained

Indian citizens need an Inner Line Permit for Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit for those four …

Planning a Sikkim trip: permits, roads and hotels
North East India · 5 min read Planning a Sikkim trip: permits, roads and hotels

Fly to Bagdogra and drive 4.5 hours to Gangtok. Spend three nights there, three in Pelling for Kanchenjunga, and two in Lachung if North …

Kerala

Fort Kochi in two days
Kerala · 5 min read Fort Kochi in two days

Two days is the right time for Fort Kochi. Spend the first on foot through the old port, from the Chinese fishing nets to …

A 10-day Kerala plan for first-timers
Kerala · 5 min read A 10-day Kerala plan for first-timers

For a first visit, spend ten days on a loop from Kochi: two nights in Fort Kochi, two in Munnar's tea hills, two at …

Ayurveda in Kerala, explained
Kerala · 5 min read Ayurveda in Kerala, explained

Ayurveda is India's classical system of medicine, practised in Kerala by qualified doctors through long family lineages. A real programme needs 14 to 21 …

When to visit Kerala, and the monsoon explained
Kerala · 5 min read When to visit Kerala, and the monsoon explained

The best time to visit Kerala is November to March, when the coast is dry and the hills are clear. December to February is …

Kerala food: what to eat and where
Kerala · 5 min read Kerala food: what to eat and where

Kerala food is built on rice, coconut, fish and spices, shaped by Hindu, Syrian Christian, Mappila Muslim and Jewish communities. Try appam and stew, …

How to choose a Kerala houseboat
Kerala · 5 min read How to choose a Kerala houseboat

Choose a single-party premium kettuvallam with one or two air-conditioned bedrooms, a trained crew and a route away from the busy Alappuzha jetties. One …

Kathakali and Kalaripayattu: a visitor's guide
Kerala · 5 min read Kathakali and Kalaripayattu: a visitor's guide

Kathakali is Kerala's classical dance-drama, told through make-up, hand gestures and eye movements to live drums and song; Kalaripayattu is its martial art, trained …

Theyyam season: how to see it well
Kerala · 5 min read Theyyam season: how to see it well

Theyyam is the ritual of North Malabar in which a hereditary performer becomes a local deity for a night. It is held in village …

Munnar's tea country: a planning guide
Kerala · 5 min read Munnar's tea country: a planning guide

Munnar is the heart of Kerala's tea country, with estates from about 1,500 m to above 2,000 m in the Western Ghats. Spend two …

Periyar Tiger Reserve: how to see the forest
Kerala · 5 min read Periyar Tiger Reserve: how to see the forest

Periyar Tiger Reserve, at Thekkady in the Cardamom Hills, is seen on foot and by water, not by jeep. Book full-day bamboo rafting or …

Goa

Seven days in Goa: a day-by-day plan
Goa · 5 min read Seven days in Goa: a day-by-day plan

Our favourite seven days in Goa: two nights near Panjim for Fontainhas, Old Goa and Divar; a day in the Western Ghats for a …

Goa's beaches by mood: quiet, family, scenic, social
Goa · 5 min read Goa's beaches by mood: quiet, family, scenic, social

Goa has more than 30 beaches along about 105 km of coast. For quiet, choose Mobor, Agonda, Galgibaga or Mandrem. For families, Sinquerim, Benaulim …

Goa Carnival: dates, parades and how to see it well
Goa · 5 min read Goa Carnival: dates, parades and how to see it well

Goa Carnival is a four-day street festival before Lent, usually in February. King Momo opens it in Panjim with a decree to make merry, …

A walk through Fontainhas, Panjim's Latin quarter
Goa · 5 min read A walk through Fontainhas, Panjim's Latin quarter

Fontainhas is Panjim's Latin quarter, a grid of painted 19th-century houses below Altinho hill. Walk it at 8 am on a 2.5 km loop …

Goa in the monsoon: what to expect and how to plan
Goa · 5 min read Goa in the monsoon: what to expect and how to plan

Goa's monsoon runs from early June to late September, with roughly 2,500 to 3,000 mm of rain. The sea is unsafe and beach shacks …

North Goa or south Goa: how to choose
Goa · 5 min read North Goa or south Goa: how to choose

Choose south Goa for long, quiet beaches, large luxury resorts and the Portuguese mansions of Salcete. Choose north Goa for villas, restaurants, markets and …

Villa or hotel in Goa: which suits you
Goa · 5 min read Villa or hotel in Goa: which suits you

Rent a villa in Goa if you are a family or group staying four nights or more and want privacy, space and a cook; …

Goa with children: where to stay and what to do
Goa · 5 min read Goa with children: where to stay and what to do

Goa is one of India's easiest family destinations: short flights, warm sea, big resorts and outings children love. Stay at Taj Fort Aguada in …

Goan food: what to eat and where to find it
Goa · 5 min read Goan food: what to eat and where to find it

Goan food is two kitchens, Catholic and Hindu, sharing coconut, kokum, chillies and the day's catch. Eat fish curry rice at lunch, try vindaloo, …

The churches of Old Goa: a visitor's guide
Goa · 5 min read The churches of Old Goa: a visitor's guide

Old Goa's churches and convents, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986, are what survives of the 16th-century capital of Portuguese Asia. See the …

UP & Bihar

Best time to visit UP and Bihar, and the winter fog
UP & Bihar · 5 min read Best time to visit UP and Bihar, and the winter fog

The best time to visit Uttar Pradesh and Bihar is October to March, with October, November, February and March the most reliable. From mid-December …

The Buddhist circuit in India, without crossing to Nepal
UP & Bihar · 5 min read The Buddhist circuit in India, without crossing to Nepal

The Indian Buddhist circuit links Sarnath, Bodh Gaya, Rajgir, Nalanda, Vaishali and Kushinagar across Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. Allow ten nights by private car, …

Crafts of UP and Bihar: what to see and buy
UP & Bihar · 5 min read Crafts of UP and Bihar: what to see and buy

Uttar Pradesh and Bihar are among India's richest craft regions. The essentials are chikankari in Lucknow, Banarasi silk in Varanasi, marble inlay and zardozi …

Holi in Braj: Barsana, Nandgaon, Vrindavan and Mathura
UP & Bihar · 5 min read Holi in Braj: Barsana, Nandgaon, Vrindavan and Mathura

In Braj, the country of Krishna around Mathura and Vrindavan, Holi is celebrated for more than a week in late February or March. See …

How to see the Taj Mahal well
UP & Bihar · 5 min read How to see the Taj Mahal well

See the Taj Mahal at sunrise through the east gate on any day but Friday, when it is closed, and again at sunset from …

The Kumbh Mela and Magh Mela at Prayagraj
UP & Bihar · 5 min read The Kumbh Mela and Magh Mela at Prayagraj

The Magh Mela is held every January and February at the Sangam in Prayagraj, and every twelve years it becomes the Kumbh Mela. The …

Lucknow's Awadhi food: what to eat and where
UP & Bihar · 5 min read Lucknow's Awadhi food: what to eat and where

Lucknow's Awadhi cuisine grew from the kitchens of the nawabs and is known for slow cooking, fine kebabs and fragrant biryani. Eat in the …

Nalanda and Rajgir: a guide to the ruins and hills
UP & Bihar · 5 min read Nalanda and Rajgir: a guide to the ruins and hills

Nalanda, a UNESCO-listed monastic university active from the 5th century to about 1200, lies 12 km from Rajgir, the ancient capital of Magadha where …

A 9-day plan for the Taj, Lucknow and Varanasi
UP & Bihar · 5 min read A 9-day plan for the Taj, Lucknow and Varanasi

Nine days, eight nights, is enough to see Uttar Pradesh's essentials without rushing: three nights in Agra for the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri, …

The Varanasi ghats and the Ganga aarti
UP & Bihar · 5 min read The Varanasi ghats and the Ganga aarti

Varanasi's 80-odd ghats run for about 6 km along the Ganges. See them from a rowing boat at dawn, walk them in the late …

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