What the ghats are
A ghat is a flight of stone steps leading down to water. In Varanasi, more than 80 of them line the west bank of the Ganges in a long crescent, from Assi in the south to Adi Keshava in the north. Most were built or rebuilt from the 18th century onward by rulers and merchants from across India, who added palaces, temples and rest houses above the steps. The east bank, by contrast, is an empty stretch of sand, a result of beliefs about which bank is auspicious.
The ghats are where the city lives in public. People bathe, pray, wash clothes, exercise, play cricket, sell flowers, get shaved, perform rituals for the dead and simply sit and talk. Each ghat has its own story and character, and walking or rowing the full length shows the range of Varanasi's life in a few hours.
The ghats worth knowing
You do not need to know all 80 names. These are the ones our guides point out most often, from south to north.
| Ghat | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Assi | Southern end; morning aarti and music, cafés, a calmer start |
| Tulsi | Linked to the poet Tulsidas; wrestling akhara nearby |
| Chet Singh | Fort-like walls of an 18th-century ruler of Benares |
| Harishchandra | One of two cremation ghats |
| Kedar | Red and white striped steps, a Shiva temple popular with south Indian pilgrims |
| Darbhanga | Grand palace façade, now BrijRama Palace |
| Dashashwamedh | The busiest ghat; the main evening aarti |
| Man Mandir | Rajput palace with an 18th-century observatory |
| Manikarnika | The main cremation ghat, fires burn day and night |
| Panchganga | Meeting of mythical rivers; Alamgir Mosque above |
Seeing the ghats by boat at dawn
The classic way to see the ghats is from a wooden rowing boat at sunrise. Board about 30 minutes before the sun comes up, roughly 6 am in December and January and around 5:15 to 5:30 am in March. The sun rises over the sand bank opposite and lights the façades of the ghats one by one, while bathers enter the river and offer water to the sun.
We use private rowing boats with boatmen we know, with cushions and tea in a flask. Motorboats are faster and useful for larger groups or covering the full length quickly, but the dawn ride is best done in silence. A typical route drifts downstream from near Assi or Darbhanga to Manikarnika and back, taking about 90 minutes.
Agree the price and route in advance through your guide. During the monsoon, from July to September, the river rises over the lower steps and boats may be suspended; check current status before you travel.
The evening Ganga aarti
Every evening shortly after sunset, a group of young priests performs the Ganga aarti on raised platforms at Dashashwamedh Ghat. Dressed alike, they move in unison with large tiered brass lamps, incense, conch shells, bells and fans of yak hair, offering light and devotion to the river as goddess. The ritual lasts about 45 minutes, with music and chanting throughout.
There are two ways to watch. From a boat moored facing the platforms, you see the whole sweep of fire and smoke against the lit ghat, with the crowd behind, and you avoid the crush. From the ghat steps, you are closer to the priests and feel the energy of the crowd, but space is tight and it can be uncomfortable. We often suggest a boat on the first evening and the ghat on the second.
A smaller aarti is held at Assi Ghat, along with a morning aarti and music at dawn. Before the evening aarti, buy a diya, a leaf bowl of marigolds with a small lamp, and float it on the river with a wish.
If you are in Varanasi for Dev Deepawali on Kartik Purnima, usually in November, the ghats are lined with lamps and the aarti is held on a far larger scale. Boats for that evening must be booked months ahead.
- Starts around 6 to 6:30 pm in winter, about 7 pm in summer.
- Arrive 45 minutes early for a good boat or step position.
- On festival days, especially Dev Deepawali, it is held on a larger scale and is extremely crowded.
- During high monsoon water, it moves to higher ground.
Cremation ghats and how to behave
Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi, or being cremated here, brings moksha, release from the cycle of rebirth. At Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats, cremations take place in the open day and night, with wood piled along the steps and families carrying bodies wrapped in cloth down to the river.
Visitors may watch from a respectful distance, ideally from a boat or with a guide who can explain the rituals. Photography is strictly not allowed and causes deep offence. Avoid touts who offer to take you closer or ask for donations for wood on behalf of the dying; these requests are often scams. Stay quiet, dress modestly and leave if a family seems uncomfortable.
Walking the ghats
Walking the ghats is the best way to understand their scale and texture. The full length from Assi to Panchganga is about 6 km and takes three to four hours at a gentle pace, with stops. The late afternoon is the best time, as the light softens and the city comes down to the river before the aarti.
The steps are uneven and can be slippery, especially near the water. Wear closed shoes with good grip and watch for cow dung and wet stone. Touts, boatmen and sellers will approach you constantly; a polite but firm no, or a guide by your side, keeps it manageable. During the monsoon, some stretches are underwater and cannot be walked.
A three-day rhythm on the river
Varanasi works best when you follow the river's own timetable rather than a list of sights. Mornings belong to the water, middays to rest, afternoons to walking and evenings to the aarti. This is the shape we give most three-night stays, adjusted for festivals and the season.
On the first evening, arrive in time to watch the aarti from a boat; it is the gentlest introduction to the city. The next morning, take the dawn boat downstream and land for a walk through the old city lanes to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. On the second day, head upstream at dawn to Assi for the morning music, then spend the afternoon with silk weavers. Keep one afternoon for Sarnath, 10 km away, where the Buddha gave his first sermon, as a calm contrast to the ghats.
- Day 1: arrive, rest, aarti from a boat at dusk.
- Day 2: dawn boat downstream, old city lanes and Kashi Vishwanath, aarti from the steps.
- Day 3: dawn boat upstream to Assi, silk weavers, Sarnath and evening chanting.
- Day 4: a last walk on the ghats before departure.
Where to stay and when to go
To live on the ghats, stay at BrijRama Palace on Darbhanga Ghat or Suryauday Haveli on Shivala Ghat. Both are reached by boat or on foot, as cars cannot reach the river. For calm and gardens, stay at Taj Nadesar Palace or Taj Ganges in the cantonment, about 30 minutes away by car. Many guests split their nights between the two.
October to March is the season. November brings Dev Deepawali, when the ghats are lit with lamps on Kartik Purnima. December and January are cold, with fog at dawn that gives the ghats a softer, misty look. From April it is hot, and from July to September the river floods the lower steps. Give Varanasi at least three nights.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
How many ghats are there in Varanasi?
More than 80 ghats line the west bank of the Ganges in Varanasi, running for about 6 km from Assi Ghat in the south to Adi Keshava in the north. Most were built or rebuilt from the 18th century onward. You do not need to see all of them; a dawn boat ride covers the main stretch.
What time is the Ganga aarti in Varanasi?
The evening aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat begins shortly after sunset, around 6 to 6:30 pm in winter and about 7 pm in summer, and lasts about 45 minutes. Arrive at least 45 minutes early for a good position. Times shift with the seasons and on festival days.
Should I watch the aarti from a boat or the ghat?
A boat gives the best overall view and avoids the crowd, which suits older travellers and families. The ghat steps put you closer to the priests and the energy of the crowd but can be cramped. Seeing it once each way, on two evenings, is ideal.
Which is the main ghat in Varanasi?
Dashashwamedh Ghat is the busiest and best known, the site of the main evening Ganga aarti. Manikarnika is the main cremation ghat, and Assi, at the southern end, is popular for its morning aarti and calmer atmosphere. Darbhanga has the grandest palace façade.
Can I take photos at the cremation ghats?
No. Photography of cremations at Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats is strictly not allowed and deeply offensive to families. You may watch from a respectful distance, preferably from a boat or with a guide. Avoid touts who ask for money for wood or offer closer access.
What time should I take a sunrise boat in Varanasi?
Board about 30 minutes before sunrise: roughly 6 am in December and January and around 5:15 to 5:30 am in March. The ride lasts about 90 minutes. In winter, fog can soften the first half-hour, which gives the ghats a misty atmosphere.
Is it safe to walk along the ghats?
Yes, by day and in the early evening, with normal care. The steps are uneven and can be slippery, so wear shoes with grip. Touts and sellers are persistent but not dangerous. Avoid walking alone on empty stretches late at night. A guide makes the walk easier and more meaningful.
Can I bathe in the Ganges at Varanasi?
Pilgrims bathe as an act of faith, but we do not recommend it, as the water carries significant pollution near the city. Touching the water to your head from the steps or a boat is a respectful way to take part. Do not drink the water.
How many days should I spend in Varanasi?
At least three nights. That allows two dawn boat rides or one boat and one ghat walk, two evenings at the aarti, a morning in the old city and a half-day at Sarnath. Varanasi can be intense, and more time lets you absorb it rather than rush.
