Nubra Valley
Sand dunes, Bactrian camels and monasteries beyond Khardung La
Nubra lies on the far side of the Ladakh range, reached from Leh by a road that climbs to Khardung La at 5,359 m and drops into a broad valley where two rivers meet. The Shyok flows from the east and the Nubra from the Siachen glacier to the north. Between them lie wide gravel plains, villages of willow and poplar, and a strip of white sand dunes near Hunder that surprise every first-time visitor.
For most travellers Nubra is the first trip out of Leh, and a good one. The valley floor at Diskit is about 3,144 m, a little lower than Leh, so sleep is easier after the climb over the pass. Two nights give a full day to see Diskit monastery, the dunes and camels at Hunder, Samstanling monastery at Sumur and the hot springs at Panamik. A third night allows Turtuk.
Nubra was a stop on the caravan route to Yarkand and the Karakoram Pass. The double-humped Bactrian camels at Hunder are descendants of the animals that carried that trade. Today the valley is a protected area, and Indian and foreign visitors need permits, which we arrange in Leh. Check current status before you travel. Nubra is also a good place to rest after Leh. We arrange all permits in Leh before departure.
Highlights
What Nubra Valley does best
The drive from Leh climbs about 1,850 m in 40 km to Khardung La, at 5,359 m one of the highest motorable passes in the world. The sign at the top claims more. Stop for 15 minutes only, take your photographs and descend; the altitude is no place to linger.
Diskit monastery, founded in the 14th century, clings to a ridge above the valley. Below it a 32 m statue of Maitreya, consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 2010, faces down the Shyok towards Pakistan. Come for morning prayers, then walk down to the statue.
Between Diskit and Hunder the river has left a strip of pale sand dunes among sea buckthorn and willow. Herders bring their two-humped Bactrian camels here for short rides in the late afternoon. It is touristy in high season, but the light at 5 pm is lovely.
On the Nubra river side of the valley, the village of Sumur has walled fields and the Samstanling monastery, founded in the 1840s, with a peaceful courtyard and painted assembly hall. It is a quieter alternative to Diskit and close to Lchang Nang Retreat.
Panamik, about 30 km north of Sumur, has sulphur hot springs used for centuries by caravans before the climb towards the Karakoram. The bathing rooms are simple. The village beyond, with its barley and old houses, is the real reason to make the drive.
From Hunder a road follows the Shyok west for about 80 km to Turtuk, a Balti village that was under Pakistani control until 1971. It works as a long day trip, but a night there is far better. See our Turtuk page.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Nubra Valley
The nearest airport is Leh (IXL), ≈ 125 km away. There are no commercial flights into Nubra. Fly to Leh and spend at least two nights acclimatising before you cross Khardung La.
There is no railway in Ladakh. The nearest useful railheads, Jammu Tawi and Chandigarh, are more than 800 km from Nubra by road.
The main road from Leh crosses Khardung La: ≈ 125 km and 4.5–5 h to Hunder. An alternative road over Wari La via Sakti and Agham joins Nubra from the Pangong side and takes longer. Nubra connects to Pangong by the Shyok road via Agham, ≈ 160–170 km and 6 h. Passes can close after snow; check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
Most guests stay either in Hunder, close to the dunes, or across the valley in Sumur on the Nubra river side, which is greener and quieter. Our first choice is Lchang Nang Retreat in Sumur, a small, well-run retreat set among fields and trees, which opens for the summer season. Hunder and Diskit have several comfortable camps and guesthouses; we choose among them according to availability and recent inspections. Expect solar or generator power, good food and a simpler level of finish than in Leh.
Lchang Nang, meaning house of trees, is a small retreat in Sumur village in Nubra, set among willows and fields with views of the surrounding peaks. …
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. BeginFrom our planners
Five things to know
- Spend at least two nights in Leh before crossing Khardung La, and do not stop at the top for longer than 15–20 minutes.
- Leave Leh by 8 am to beat army convoys and the queue at the South Pullu checkpoint.
- Carry photocopies of your permits and passports; there are checkposts on the road.
- Book the camel ride for late afternoon, when the light is soft and the sand is cooler.
- Keep a warm layer in the car; it can snow on Khardung La even in July.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Nubra Valley
How many nights should we spend in Nubra Valley?
Two nights is right for most guests. One night forces a rushed afternoon after a long drive, while two give a full day for Diskit, Hunder, Sumur and Panamik. Add a third night or a night in Turtuk if you want to see the Balti villages to the west. Three nights also allow a quieter pace for seniors.
Do we need a permit for Nubra Valley?
Yes. Nubra is a protected area. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit, and Indian nationals have needed an Inner Line Permit or online registration with fees, depending on the year. We apply in Leh and carry copies for checkposts at South and North Pullu. Check current status before you travel.
Is Nubra Valley higher than Leh?
No, the valley floor is lower. Diskit sits at about 3,144 m and Hunder at a similar height, compared with Leh at about 3,500 m. The challenge is Khardung La, at 5,359 m, which you cross on the way. Once in Nubra, most guests sleep better than they did in Leh.
Can we go from Nubra to Pangong directly?
Yes. A road follows the Shyok river from Diskit via Agham and Shyok village to Durbuk and Tangtse, joining the Pangong road. It is about 160–170 km and six hours to Spangmik. The road can be damaged by summer floods or landslides, so we check its condition the day before. Check current status before you travel.
What is the best time to visit Nubra?
May to September is best, when Khardung La is reliably open and the villages are green. June and September are quieter than the peak months of July and August. Late October brings golden poplars and cold nights. In winter the valley is open when the pass is clear, but most camps close.
Where should we stay in Nubra?
We prefer Lchang Nang Retreat in Sumur, a small retreat among trees and fields on the quieter Nubra river side. Hunder has several comfortable camps close to the dunes, which suit families who want to walk to the camels. Nubra accommodation is more rustic than Leh, with generator or solar power and limited Wi-Fi.
Is there mobile network in Nubra Valley?
Postpaid connections from the main Indian networks usually work around Diskit and Hunder, though signal is weaker than in Leh and data can be slow. Coverage is patchy in Sumur and Panamik and absent in some stretches of road. Most guests find it a welcome break; tell family to expect gaps.
Is Nubra suitable for children?
Yes, Nubra is one of the best places in Ladakh for families. Children enjoy the dunes and camel rides, and the lower altitude helps sleep. The challenge is the drive over Khardung La, which is long and very high. Children should be well acclimatised after at least two nights in Leh, and stops at the pass kept short.
How cold is Nubra at night?
In June to August nights in Nubra drop to about 8–12 °C and days reach 25–30 °C in the sun. In May and September nights can fall close to freezing. Camps provide heavy quilts and some have heaters. Bring a down jacket for evenings and early morning visits to Diskit.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Nubra Valley
Nearby
Pair it with
Ladakh's capital at 3,500 m, and where every journey begins
A Balti village of apricots and stone lanes on the Shyok
A long blue lake at 4,225 m that runs into Tibet
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin