Private journeys in seven lands · a planner replies within one working day

Tales of Luxury

Backwater green and kasavu gold · India

Kerala

Kerala is a narrow green state on India's south-west coast, about 580 km long, where you can wake in a tea estate at 1,600 m, spend the next night on a private houseboat and finish on a quiet beach. October to March is the best window; June to August is the classic season for Ayurveda.

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Kerala, in brief

Best monthsOct – Mar; Jun – Aug for Ayurveda
Main airportsKochi (COK), Thiruvananthapuram (TRV), Kozhikode (CCJ), Kannur (CNN)
Ideal length8–14 nights
CurrencyIndian rupee (INR)
LanguagesMalayalam; English widely spoken
PermitsNone for travel; park and monument tickets only
Time zoneIST (UTC +5:30)

Kerala runs about 580 km from the Karnataka border in the north to Tamil Nadu in the south, squeezed between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats. The width is rarely more than 120 km, so the drive from a beach to a tea estate at 1,600 m takes four or five hours. That compression is the reason Kerala works so well for a private journey: three very different landscapes, one short car ride apart, and almost no internal flights needed.

We plan most first trips around a loop from Kochi. Two nights in Fort Kochi for the Portuguese, Dutch and Jewish layers of the old port; two or three in Munnar among the Kanan Devan tea estates; two in Thekkady for the Periyar Tiger Reserve and the cardamom gardens; then down to the Vembanad backwaters for a lake resort and a night on a private kettuvallam, and a final few days at Marari or Kovalam on the coast.

There is a second Kerala that fewer visitors see. North of Kozhikode, the Malabar coast has its own food, its own Muslim and Hindu trading history, and from late October to May the Theyyam rituals of Kannur and Kasaragod, performed through the night in village shrines. Inland, Wayanad is coffee and pepper country with elephants in the Muthanga forest. We combine these with Bekal on the coast for a journey that feels very different from the southern loop.

Kerala is also the home of classical Ayurveda. Serious treatment needs a minimum of 14 days with a doctor's daily consultation, and the best centres sit around Kovalam and in the Palakkad gap. The monsoon months, when the air is cool and damp, are considered ideal for this work by Kerala's practitioners. For everyone else, October to March brings dry days of 23–32 °C on the coast and crisp nights in the hills.

Why go

Reasons to go, plainly

A private kettuvallam on Vembanad

A rice barge converted into a floating suite, with your own crew and cook, drifting through the canals of Kuttanad where the paddy fields sit below sea level. We book only premium boats we have inspected, with one or two bedrooms, and always as a single-party charter.

Tea estates above Munnar

Tea covers almost every slope around Munnar, from about 1,500 m to above 2,000 m. Walk the estates with a planter in the morning, watch the leaf processed in a working factory, and drive up to Top Station for the view down into Tamil Nadu.

The layered port of Fort Kochi

Five centuries of traders left their marks on one small peninsula: the Chinese fishing nets, a Portuguese church where Vasco da Gama was first buried, the Dutch Palace murals and the 1568 Paradesi Synagogue. Stay in a restored warehouse on the harbour and walk it all.

Periyar and the cardamom hills

The Periyar Tiger Reserve covers about 925 km² around a lake made by an 1895 dam. Elephants, gaur and otters are seen far more often than tigers. A full day of bamboo rafting with forest guards is the best way in.

Theyyam in North Malabar

From late October to May, villages in Kannur and Kasaragod hold all-night rituals where a performer, painted and crowned, becomes the deity for a few hours. We find the night's performances through local contacts and go with a guide who explains what is happening.

Ayurveda at its source

Kerala's family lineages of Ayurvedic physicians still run hospitals and retreats here. We place guests at proven centres around Kovalam and Palakkad for programmes of 7 to 21 days, with doctor consultations, daily treatments and a diet set for you.

The map

Where to go in Kerala

Map of Alappuzha (Alleppey), Bekal, Kannur, Fort Kochi, Kovalam, Kumarakom, Marari, Munnar, Thekkady (Periyar), Thrissur, Varkala, WayanadIndiaAlappuzha (Alleppey)1Bekal2Kannur3Fort Kochi4Kovalam5Kumarakom6Marari7Munnar8Thekkady (Periyar)9Thrissur10Varkala11Wayanad12200 kmN
  1. 1Alappuzha (Alleppey)
  2. 2Bekal
  3. 3Kannur
  4. 4Fort Kochi
  5. 5Kovalam
  6. 6Kumarakom
  7. 7Marari
  8. 8Munnar
  9. 9Thekkady (Periyar)
  10. 10Thrissur
  11. 11Varkala
  12. 12Wayanad
Drawn by Tales of Luxury from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.
Alappuzha (Alleppey)
backwaters Alappuzha (Alleppey)

Houseboats, Kuttanad paddy and the snake-boat races

Best Nov – Feb · 1 nights
Bekal
fort town Bekal

A sea fort, quiet backwaters and Kerala's far north

Best Nov – Mar · 2–3 nights
Kannur
city Kannur

Theyyam country, looms and the old Malabar forts

Best Nov – Mar · 2–3 nights
Fort Kochi
city Fort Kochi

Five centuries of spice traders on one small peninsula

Best Nov – Feb · 2–3 nights
Kovalam
beach Kovalam

Crescent beaches, Ayurveda retreats and the old capital

Best Nov – Mar · 3 nights
Kumarakom
backwaters Kumarakom

Lake resorts and bird life on the shore of Vembanad

Best Nov – Feb · 2–3 nights
Marari
beach Marari

A fishing village beach between Kochi and the backwaters

Best Nov – Mar · 2–4 nights
Munnar
tea country Munnar

Tea estates, cool mornings and the Nilgiri tahr

Best Dec – Apr · 2–3 nights
Thekkady (Periyar)
national park Thekkady (Periyar)

Periyar's forests, a dammed lake and cardamom hills

Best Nov – Apr · 2 nights
Thrissur
temple town Thrissur

Kerala's cultural capital, temples and the great Pooram

Best Nov – Feb · 1–2 nights
Varkala
beach Varkala

Red laterite cliffs above a pilgrim beach

Best Nov – Mar · 2–3 nights
Wayanad
hill station Wayanad

Coffee, pepper and elephant forest on the high plateau

Best Oct – Mar · 3 nights

Journeys

Routes through Kerala

Indicative prices per person, twin sharing, at the hotels named. Every route can be changed.

Fourteen nights of Ayurveda at Kovalam
Kerala · 14 nights Fourteen nights of Ayurveda at Kovalam Kovalam From₹4,50,000 pp
A family holiday in Kerala
Kerala · 10 nights A family holiday in Kerala Fort Kochi · Munnar · Thekkady (Periyar) · Marari From₹2,75,000 pp
A Kerala food and spice trail
Kerala · 8 nights A Kerala food and spice trail Fort Kochi · Thekkady (Periyar) · Kumarakom From₹2,45,000 pp
The grand tour of Kerala
Kerala · 14 nights The grand tour of Kerala Fort Kochi · Munnar · Thekkady (Periyar) · Kumarakom · Alappuzha (Alleppey) · Varkala · Kovalam From₹4,20,000 pp
A Kerala honeymoon in hills and lagoons
Kerala · 9 nights A Kerala honeymoon in hills and lagoons Munnar · Kumarakom · Alappuzha (Alleppey) · Marari From₹3,00,000 pp
Kochi and Marari: a short Kerala break
Kerala · 5 nights Kochi and Marari: a short Kerala break Fort Kochi · Marari From₹1,45,000 pp
Malabar: Wayanad, Theyyam and Bekal
Kerala · 9 nights Malabar: Wayanad, Theyyam and Bekal Wayanad · Kannur · Bekal From₹2,70,000 pp
Monsoon Ayurveda and the rain-washed lake
Kerala · 9 nights Monsoon Ayurveda and the rain-washed lake Kovalam · Kumarakom From₹2,60,000 pp
Onam in Kerala: sadya, tigers and backwaters
Kerala · 7 nights Onam in Kerala: sadya, tigers and backwaters Kumarakom · Alappuzha (Alleppey) · Thrissur · Fort Kochi From₹2,10,000 pp
Kochi and the backwaters by private kettuvallam
Kerala · 6 nights Kochi and the backwaters by private kettuvallam Fort Kochi · Kumarakom · Alappuzha (Alleppey) From₹1,85,000 pp
The slow coast from Kovalam to Marari
Kerala · 10 nights The slow coast from Kovalam to Marari Kovalam · Varkala · Marari From₹2,60,000 pp
Spice hills to backwaters
Kerala · 10 nights Spice hills to backwaters Fort Kochi · Munnar · Thekkady (Periyar) · Kumarakom · Alappuzha (Alleppey) · Marari From₹3,25,000 pp
Tea hills and the Periyar forest
Kerala · 7 nights Tea hills and the Periyar forest Fort Kochi · Munnar · Thekkady (Periyar) From₹2,05,000 pp
Temple arts and Theyyam
Kerala · 8 nights Temple arts and Theyyam Thrissur · Kannur · Bekal From₹2,40,000 pp
Wildlife of Kerala: Wayanad and Periyar
Kerala · 9 nights Wildlife of Kerala: Wayanad and Periyar Wayanad · Fort Kochi · Munnar · Thekkady (Periyar) From₹2,80,000 pp

Where we book

Stays in Kerala

All stays →
Brunton Boatyard
boutique hotel · Fort Kochi Brunton Boatyard

A heritage hotel on the Fort Kochi waterfront, rebuilt on the site of a Victorian boatyard, where every room faces the harbour channel and ships pass …

The Malabar House
boutique hotel · Fort Kochi The Malabar House

A small, art-filled heritage hotel in a restored 18th-century house beside Parade Ground in Fort Kochi, with a courtyard pool and a quiet, personal style. It …

Windermere Estate
plantation bungalow · Munnar Windermere Estate

A working cardamom and coffee plantation at Pothamedu, about 3 km from Munnar town, with cottages and a planter's bungalow set on a hillside facing the …

Spice Village
resort · Thekkady (Periyar) Spice Village

A CGH Earth resort of thatched cottages among spice gardens on the edge of the Periyar Tiger Reserve, built in the style of the area's tribal …

Coconut Lagoon
resort · Kumarakom Coconut Lagoon

A CGH Earth resort on the shore of Vembanad Lake, reached only by boat, built from old Kerala wooden houses dismantled and reassembled on the site, …

Kumarakom Lake Resort
resort · Kumarakom Kumarakom Lake Resort

A large lakeside resort on Vembanad with traditional Kerala-style villas and pool villas along a long winding pool, a respected Ayurveda centre and its own jetty …

Marari Beach
resort · Marari Marari Beach

A CGH Earth beach resort in coconut groves behind Marari beach, with thatched villas modelled on fishermen's cottages, some with private pools, an organic farm, an …

The Leela Kovalam, a Raviz Hotel
resort · Kovalam The Leela Kovalam, a Raviz Hotel

A large clifftop resort above Hawa Beach at Kovalam, with sea-facing rooms, an infinity pool looking over the Arabian Sea, a private beach below and an …

Taj Bekal Resort & Spa
resort · Bekal Taj Bekal Resort & Spa

A Taj resort on the backwaters behind Kappil beach near Bekal Fort, with villas inspired by Kerala houseboats, many with private pools, a large spa and …

Kerala by travel style

The calendar

Festivals worth the dates

Onam
Aug–Sep, in the Malayalam month …Onam

Onam is Kerala's harvest festival and its biggest celebration, ten days in August or September ending on Thiruvonam, when homes lay flower …

Thrissur Pooram
Apr–May, in the Malayalam month …Thrissur Pooram

Thrissur Pooram is Kerala's most spectacular temple festival, held in April or May around the Vadakkunnathan temple, when two rival temple groups …

Nehru Trophy Boat Race
Usually the second Saturday of …Nehru Trophy Boat Race

The Nehru Trophy Boat Race is Kerala's best-known snake-boat race, held on Punnamada Lake in Alappuzha, usually on the second Saturday of …

Kochi-Muziris Biennale
Dec–Mar in Biennale years (most …Kochi-Muziris Biennale

The Kochi-Muziris Biennale is India's largest exhibition of contemporary art, first held in 2012 and staged roughly every two years from December …

Theyyam season in North Malabar
Late Oct–May; busiest Dec–Mar (Malayalam …Theyyam season in North Malabar

Theyyam is the ritual performance of North Malabar, held in village shrines in Kannur and Kasaragod from late October to May, in …

Attukal Pongala
Feb–Mar, on the Pooram star …Attukal Pongala

Attukal Pongala is a festival of women in Thiruvananthapuram, 16 km from Kovalam, when very large numbers of women cook a sweet …

Getting there

Arriving in Kerala

Kochi International Airport (COK) is the main gateway, with direct flights from the Gulf, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Colombo and most Indian metros; it sits 42 km from Fort Kochi, about 1.5 h by car. Thiruvananthapuram (TRV) suits journeys that start or end at Kovalam or Varkala, 15–50 km away. For the north, Kozhikode (CCJ) is best for Wayanad, Kannur (CNN) for Theyyam country, and Mangaluru (IXE) just across the Karnataka border is 70 km from Bekal. Inside Kerala we travel by private car with a driver; the coastal railway between Thiruvananthapuram, Kochi, Thrissur and Kannur is useful for longer hops. Flight routes change by season, so check current status before you travel.

Permits

Paperwork to know

No special permits are needed to travel anywhere in Kerala, for Indian or foreign nationals. Most foreign visitors arrive on an e-Visa, which Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram and Kozhikode airports accept. Wildlife areas such as Periyar, Eravikulam and Muthanga sell entry tickets and activity slots through the forest department, often online and in limited numbers; we book these for you. Many major temples, including Padmanabhaswamy, Guruvayur and Vadakkunnathan, admit only Hindus to the inner areas and enforce a dress code. Rules and ticket systems change, so check current status before you travel.

Permit checker →

Guides

Read before Kerala

Fort Kochi in two days
Kerala · 5 min read Fort Kochi in two days

Two days is the right time for Fort Kochi. Spend the first on foot through the old port, from the Chinese fishing nets to …

A 10-day Kerala plan for first-timers
Kerala · 5 min read A 10-day Kerala plan for first-timers

For a first visit, spend ten days on a loop from Kochi: two nights in Fort Kochi, two in Munnar's tea hills, two at …

Ayurveda in Kerala, explained
Kerala · 5 min read Ayurveda in Kerala, explained

Ayurveda is India's classical system of medicine, practised in Kerala by qualified doctors through long family lineages. A real programme needs 14 to 21 …

When to visit Kerala, and the monsoon explained
Kerala · 5 min read When to visit Kerala, and the monsoon explained

The best time to visit Kerala is November to March, when the coast is dry and the hills are clear. December to February is …

Kerala food: what to eat and where
Kerala · 5 min read Kerala food: what to eat and where

Kerala food is built on rice, coconut, fish and spices, shaped by Hindu, Syrian Christian, Mappila Muslim and Jewish communities. Try appam and stew, …

How to choose a Kerala houseboat
Kerala · 5 min read How to choose a Kerala houseboat

Choose a single-party premium kettuvallam with one or two air-conditioned bedrooms, a trained crew and a route away from the busy Alappuzha jetties. One …

Kathakali and Kalaripayattu: a visitor's guide
Kerala · 5 min read Kathakali and Kalaripayattu: a visitor's guide

Kathakali is Kerala's classical dance-drama, told through make-up, hand gestures and eye movements to live drums and song; Kalaripayattu is its martial art, trained …

Theyyam season: how to see it well
Kerala · 5 min read Theyyam season: how to see it well

Theyyam is the ritual of North Malabar in which a hereditary performer becomes a local deity for a night. It is held in village …

Munnar's tea country: a planning guide
Kerala · 5 min read Munnar's tea country: a planning guide

Munnar is the heart of Kerala's tea country, with estates from about 1,500 m to above 2,000 m in the Western Ghats. Spend two …

Periyar Tiger Reserve: how to see the forest
Kerala · 5 min read Periyar Tiger Reserve: how to see the forest

Periyar Tiger Reserve, at Thekkady in the Cardamom Hills, is seen on foot and by water, not by jeep. Book full-day bamboo rafting or …

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Kerala

What is the best time to visit Kerala?

October to March is the best time for most travellers, with December to February the driest and most comfortable months on the coast. The hills around Munnar are pleasant almost all year except in the heavy monsoon of June and July. For Ayurveda, Kerala's doctors prefer June to August, when the cool, damp air is thought to help treatments work.

How many days do I need for Kerala?

Eight to ten nights covers the classic loop of Fort Kochi, Munnar, Thekkady, the Vembanad backwaters and a beach, with two nights in each place. Twelve to fourteen nights lets you add the north for Theyyam and Bekal, or slow down at the coast. A proper Ayurveda programme needs 14 to 21 nights on its own.

Is a houseboat night worth it?

Yes, if you choose the boat carefully and keep it to one night. A premium private kettuvallam with an air-conditioned bedroom, your own cook and a route away from the busiest stretch near Alappuzha is a memorable evening. Cruising stops around sunset by local rule and boats moor for the night, so we pair one houseboat night with two at a lake resort.

Should I stay in Kumarakom or Alleppey?

Kumarakom is better for a calm lake resort on the eastern shore of Vembanad, with the bird sanctuary next door and quieter water. Alappuzha (Alleppey) is the main houseboat hub, with the canals of Kuttanad and the Nehru Trophy course. We usually base guests at Kumarakom and start the houseboat from there to avoid the crowded jetties.

Is Kerala good for a honeymoon?

Very good. The pace is gentle, the drives are short and the rooms are private: a pool villa on the lake at Kumarakom, a hilltop cottage at Windermere in Munnar, a single-party houseboat and a beach villa at Marari. October to March is the best window. We keep the itinerary to four bases so you spend more time at each.

Can I see tigers in Periyar?

Tiger sightings in Periyar are rare because the forest is dense and the reserve is visited by boat and on foot rather than by open jeep. What you can expect is elephants at the lake edge, gaur, sambar, wild boar, otters, Nilgiri langur and a long bird list. For tigers, central Indian parks are far better; Periyar is about the forest itself.

Is Kerala safe for travellers?

Kerala is one of India's safest and most literate states, and violent crime against visitors is rare. The real risks are natural: rough seas on beaches during the monsoon, landslides on hill roads after very heavy rain, and leeches on forest walks. We track weather alerts during the season and change routes when needed.

What should I wear in Kerala?

Light cotton and linen for the coast, a warm layer for Munnar evenings, which can drop to 10 °C in winter, and closed shoes for forest walks. Temples have strict dress codes: men often need to remove shirts and wear a dhoti, and women should wear a sari, long skirt or salwar. Swimwear is fine at resort pools and beaches only.

Do I need a permit to travel in Kerala?

No. There are no inner line or restricted area permits anywhere in Kerala for Indian or foreign travellers. You only need tickets for national parks, wildlife sanctuaries and some monuments, which are often sold online in limited daily slots. We book these with your itinerary. Check current status before you travel, as ticketing systems change.

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