Alappuzha (Alleppey)
Houseboats, Kuttanad paddy and the snake-boat races
Alappuzha was laid out as a port in the 18th century by Raja Kesavadas, chief minister of Travancore, and its canals and bridges once carried coir and spices to waiting ships. Today the town is a busy district headquarters, but its canals lead straight into the most famous waterscape in India. Most of Kerala's houseboats, the converted rice barges called kettuvallam, start and end their cruises at the jetties along Punnamada Lake on the town's northern edge.
South and east of the town lies Kuttanad, a delta of paddy fields reclaimed from Vembanad. Much of it lies about one to two metres below sea level, held back by earth bunds, and farming here has been recognised by the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation as a globally important agricultural heritage system. Driving is slow and indirect; by boat, it opens up: villages on narrow strips of land, white churches, temple ponds and the endless green of the rice.
We use Alappuzha mainly for the houseboat itself, and for its festivals. The Nehru Trophy Boat Race, held on Punnamada Lake in August, brings 100-oared snake boats racing for the trophy in front of huge crowds. Inland, the churches of Champakulam and Edathua, and the Sri Krishna temple at Ambalappuzha with its famous milk payasam, are easy to add by boat or car.
Highlights
What Alappuzha (Alleppey) does best
A single-party houseboat with one or two bedrooms, a crew of three and your own cook, cruising Kuttanad's canals from late morning until sunset and mooring in a quiet spot for the night. Choose a premium boat and a route away from the main jetties.
Farmers grow rice on fields reclaimed from the lake and held back by earth walls, below the level of the canals beside them. From a houseboat deck you look down on the paddy, an unusual sight anywhere in the world.
Held on Punnamada Lake, usually on the second Saturday of August, the race brings chundan vallam snake boats of more than 100 rowers racing to the beat of songs. A pavilion seat gives the best view.
Kuttanad has some of Kerala's oldest Christian communities. Champakulam's St. Mary's Forane Church, rebuilt many times on an ancient site, and the church at Edathua sit on the water and are best reached by boat.
The Sri Krishna temple at Ambalappuzha is known for its rice and milk pudding, palpayasam, offered to the deity and distributed to devotees. The temple admits only Hindus, but the payasam can often be bought.
A wide town beach with the ruins of an old pier and a 19th-century lighthouse close by. In the evening, families come out to walk on the sand. Swimming is not advised because of strong currents.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Alappuzha (Alleppey)
Cochin International Airport (COK) is about 85 km away, 2–2.5 h by car. Thiruvananthapuram (TRV) is about 155 km and 3.5–4 h.
Alappuzha station is on the coastal line between Ernakulam and Thiruvananthapuram, with trains to Ernakulam in about an hour. The station is 4 km from the houseboat jetties at Punnamada.
Fort Kochi is ≈ 55 km · 1.5 h, Kumarakom ≈ 35 km · 1 h, Marari ≈ 15 km · 30 min and Varkala ≈ 120 km · 3 h. The coastal highway is busy, so we allow extra time.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
The houseboat is the stay. We charter premium single-party kettuvallam with air-conditioned bedrooms, private bathrooms and an open deck, from operators whose boats and crews we have inspected, including Spice Coast Cruises run by CGH Earth. For a night on land, Marari Beach resort is just 15 km north, and Kumarakom's lake resorts are an hour by road or across the lake by boat. Purity at Lake Vembanad, a small boutique hotel at Muhamma, is a quieter lakeside alternative.
From our planners
Five things to know
- Choose a boat with one or two bedrooms only; larger boats are often shared or crowded.
- Ask for a route south into Kuttanad rather than the busy loop near Punnamada.
- Cruising stops at sunset and boats moor for the night, so plan to board by noon.
- Bring insect repellent; the boat provides nets or air-conditioning for the bedroom.
- For the Nehru Trophy, book pavilion tickets and a houseboat as soon as the date is announced.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Alappuzha (Alleppey)
Is Alleppey the same as Alappuzha?
Yes. Alappuzha is the official name; Alleppey is the older English form still used widely by travellers and on signs. The town is the headquarters of Alappuzha district, at the southern end of Vembanad Lake, and the main starting point for Kerala houseboats.
How much does a luxury houseboat cost in Alleppey?
A premium single-party houseboat with one air-conditioned bedroom, full board and a private crew usually costs from about ₹30,000 to ₹60,000 for an overnight cruise, more at Christmas and New Year and for larger or newer boats. Prices change by season and demand, so check current status before you travel.
What is the best time for a houseboat?
November to February, when it is dry, the water is high after the monsoon and evenings are pleasant. August and September are green and festive but can be wet. March to May is hot and humid on deck, even with air-conditioning in the bedroom.
Is a houseboat safe?
Licensed houseboats are safe when run by trained crews. We use boats that carry life jackets, fire extinguishers and first aid, have registered crews and avoid overloaded routes. Keep children supervised on deck, as rails are low on some boats. Swimming in the backwaters is not recommended.
Is Alleppey too crowded with houseboats?
The area near the Punnamada jetties can be crowded, especially from December to January. We avoid this by boarding at quieter jetties, starting from Kumarakom, or routing boats south into Kuttanad, away from the main loop. Booking a smaller premium boat also makes the experience quieter.
Can I do a day cruise instead of an overnight?
Yes. Day cruises of four to six hours with lunch on board are available from Alappuzha and Kumarakom. They show the canals and paddy fields without the overnight stay, and suit guests who prefer to sleep on land. You miss the sunset mooring and the quiet early morning.
What is the Nehru Trophy Boat Race?
Kerala's most famous snake-boat race, held on Punnamada Lake in Alappuzha, traditionally on the second Saturday of August. It began after Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru visited in 1952 and donated a trophy. Dozens of boats race in heats, with the snake-boat final in the afternoon.
How far is Alleppey from Kochi?
About 55 km from Fort Kochi, roughly 1.5 hours by car on the coastal highway, and 85 km from Cochin International Airport, about 2 to 2.5 hours. Trains from Ernakulam take about an hour. For a houseboat that boards at noon, we leave Fort Kochi by about 10 am.
Can we swim at Alappuzha beach?
We do not recommend it. The sea at Alappuzha has strong currents and no lifeguard cover in most places, and it is rough during the monsoon from June to September. The beach is best for an evening walk. For swimming, Marari, 15 km north, is calmer between November and March.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Alappuzha (Alleppey)
Nearby
Pair it with
Lake resorts and bird life on the shore of Vembanad
A fishing village beach between Kochi and the backwaters
Five centuries of spice traders on one small peninsula
Red laterite cliffs above a pilgrim beach
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