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Tales of Luxury
Kerala10 nights · 11 daysBalanced

Spice hills to backwaters

Our classic first journey through Kerala, in 10 nights: the old port of Fort Kochi, the tea estates of Munnar, the forests and spice gardens of Periyar, a lake resort at Kumarakom, a night on a private houseboat in Kuttanad and two quiet days on the beach at Marari.

Spice hills to backwaters
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

This is the route we recommend to most first-time visitors, because it shows the three faces of Kerala in their natural order. You begin by the sea in Fort Kochi, climb into the cool tea hills of Munnar, drop to the cardamom forests around Periyar, and come down again to the backwaters of Vembanad and a final rest on the coast. No drive is longer than about four hours, and each one is interesting in itself.

We have kept to two nights in most places so that every stop has a full day without travel. The stays are among the best in Kerala: Brunton Boatyard on Kochi harbour, Windermere Estate above Munnar, Spice Village at Thekkady, Coconut Lagoon on the lake, a single-party premium kettuvallam and Marari Beach. A private car and driver stay with you throughout, with local guides in each place.

Highlights

Why this route works

  1. Fort Kochi and Mattancherry on foot with a local historian
  2. A morning in the Munnar tea estates and a working factory
  3. Bamboo rafting or a forest walk in the Periyar Tiger Reserve
  4. A night on a private kettuvallam in the canals of Kuttanad
  5. Two quiet days on the fishing-village beach at Marari

Day by day

The journey

Day01

Arrive in Kochi

Overnight: Fort Kochi≈ 42 km · 1.5 hMeals: Dinner

We meet you at Cochin International Airport and drive to Fort Kochi, about 1.5 hours, to check in at Brunton Boatyard on the harbour. After a rest, take a private launch around the harbour in the late afternoon, past Willingdon and Bolgatty islands and the container terminal, returning to the Chinese fishing nets for the last light. Dinner at the hotel, where the kitchen serves Anglo-Indian and Kochi Jewish dishes as well as Kerala classics.

Day02

Fort Kochi, Mattancherry and Kathakali

Overnight: Fort KochiMeals: Breakfast

Start at 6.30 am at the fishing nets with a local historian, walking through the Dutch cemetery, Princess Street and St. Francis Church before breakfast. Later, visit Mattancherry: the Ramayana murals of the Dutch Palace, the 1568 Paradesi Synagogue and the spice warehouses of Bazaar Road. The afternoon is free. In the early evening, watch Kathakali actors paint their faces before a short performance from the epics, with an explanation of the gestures beforehand.

Day03

Up into the tea hills of Munnar

Overnight: Munnar≈ 130 km · 4–4.5 hMeals: Breakfast, dinner

Leave Kochi after breakfast for the drive to Munnar. The road climbs through rubber and spice country to Adimali, with stops at the Cheeyappara and Valara waterfalls, then winds up through the first tea estates at Pallivasal. Arrive at Windermere Estate, a working spice plantation 3 km from town, in time for a late lunch. Walk the estate gardens in the afternoon and watch the light change over the valley from the terrace.

Day04

Tea estates and the Nilgiri tahr

Overnight: MunnarMeals: Breakfast, dinner

Set out at 7 am for a two-hour walk through the tea estates with a guide from the industry, passing pickers at work and stopping on a ridge for estate tea. Visit the Tata Tea Museum at Nallathanni and, where possible, a working factory, then taste the grades. In the afternoon, drive to Eravikulam National Park to see the Nilgiri tahr grazing below Anamudi. The park closes for calving in spring, when we drive to Top Station instead.

Day05

Through cardamom country to Thekkady

Overnight: Thekkady≈ 90 km · 3 hMeals: Breakfast, dinner

Drive south through the Cardamom Hills to Thekkady, one of the most scenic roads in Kerala, past tea and cardamom estates and viewpoints over the Tamil Nadu plains. Check in at Spice Village, CGH Earth's thatched cottages among spice gardens near the reserve gate. In the afternoon, walk a family-run cardamom and pepper plantation with its owner. In the evening, an optional Kalaripayattu demonstration in Kumily shows Kerala's martial art at close range.

Day06

A day in the Periyar Tiger Reserve

Overnight: ThekkadyMeals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner

Spend the day in the Periyar Tiger Reserve. The best option is full-day bamboo rafting with forest guards, combining a trek through the forest with long spells on bamboo rafts on the lake, watching for elephants, gaur, otters and hornbills. For a gentler day, take the first boat on Periyar Lake at about 7.30 am and a three-hour nature walk. Slots are limited and run by the forest department, so we book well ahead.

Day07

Down to Vembanad Lake

Overnight: Kumarakom≈ 125 km · 3.5–4 hMeals: Breakfast, dinner

Descend from the hills via Peermade and the old summer palace at Kuttikkanam, through rubber plantations to Kottayam and on to Kumarakom. A boat carries you across to Coconut Lagoon, built from old Kerala houses reassembled among canals and palms. After lunch, rest by the pool, then take a late-afternoon canoe through the village canals to see coir-making and toddy-tapping, finishing with sunset over the lake.

Day08

Bird sanctuary and a private houseboat

Overnight: Houseboat, KuttanadMeals: Breakfast, lunch, dinner

Walk the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary at dawn with a naturalist, then return for breakfast. At about noon, your private kettuvallam collects you from the jetty. Lunch is served as the boat crosses Vembanad and enters the canals of Kuttanad, where rice grows below the level of the water. Stop for a walk on the bund and a village church. By local rule, the boat moors at sunset in a quiet backwater. Dinner on deck by lantern light.

Day09

From the backwaters to the beach

Overnight: Marari≈ 15 km · 30 minMeals: Breakfast

Wake to mist on the water and fishermen in dugout canoes. After breakfast on board, the boat cruises for an hour and lands at Alappuzha at about 9 am. Drive 30 minutes north to Marari Beach, CGH Earth's resort of thatched villas in coconut groves behind a long, quiet beach. The rest of the day is free: a swim, a late lunch of fresh fish and an Ayurvedic massage if you wish.

Day10

Fishing boats and village lanes

Overnight: MarariMeals: Breakfast

Rise early to watch the fishing crews bring their boats in through the surf and sell the morning catch on the sand, with a guide from the village. After breakfast, an optional easy cycle ride of about 12 km through the palm lanes passes temple ponds, churches and coir spinners. The afternoon is for the beach and the pool. In the evening, a farewell dinner can be set up on the sand.

Day11

Depart from Kochi

≈ 80 km · 2–2.25 hMeals: Breakfast

Enjoy a final morning on the beach. Depending on your flight time, we drive you to Cochin International Airport, about 2 to 2.25 hours away, allowing extra time for traffic. If you have a late flight, we can arrange a day room or a stop in Kochi for last-minute shopping. Our team in India stays in touch until you are through check-in.

Map of Fort Kochi, Munnar, Thekkady (Periyar), Kumarakom, Alappuzha (Alleppey), MarariIndiaFort Kochi1Fort KochiMunnar2MunnarThekkady (Periyar)3Thekkady (Periyar)Kumarakom4KumarakomAlappuzha (Alleppey)5Alappuzha (Alleppey)Marari6Marari50 kmN
  1. 1Fort Kochi 2 nights
  2. 2Munnar 2 nights
  3. 3Thekkady (Periyar) 2 nights
  4. 4Kumarakom 1 night
  5. 5Alappuzha (Alleppey) 1 night
  6. 6Marari 2 nights
Drawn by Tales of Luxury from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Included

  • 10 nights' accommodation as listed, including one night on a single-party premium houseboat
  • Daily breakfast and the other meals listed; all meals on the houseboat
  • Private air-conditioned car with an English-speaking driver throughout
  • Private local guides in Fort Kochi, Munnar, Thekkady and Kumarakom
  • Harbour launch, Kathakali tickets, Eravikulam and Periyar activity fees
  • Airport meet and greet and all transfers
  • 24-hour support from our team in India

Not included

  • International and domestic flights
  • Indian visa and travel insurance
  • Meals not listed, drinks and tips
  • Ayurveda treatments and spa services
  • Camera fees at monuments and personal expenses

Good to know

  1. Eravikulam National Park usually closes for Nilgiri tahr calving from about February to March or April; we replace it with Top Station.
  2. Periyar bamboo rafting slots are limited and can be cancelled in heavy rain; we book as soon as dates are fixed.
  3. Houseboats stop cruising at sunset by local rule and moor for the night.
  4. Munnar evenings can fall to 10 °C from December to February; pack a warm layer.
  5. Swimming at Marari is safe only from November to March, close to shore.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Is 10 nights enough for Kerala?

Yes, for the classic southern loop. Ten nights covers Fort Kochi, Munnar, Thekkady, the Vembanad backwaters and a beach, with two nights in most places. To add the north for Theyyam, or a serious Ayurveda programme, you would need longer.

What is the best time for this journey?

November to March is best, with dry weather on the coast and clear, cool days in Munnar. December and January are busiest. September and October work well with some rain. We do not recommend June and July, when the monsoon is at its heaviest.

How much driving is involved?

Four main drives of 3 to 4.5 hours each: Kochi to Munnar, Munnar to Thekkady, Thekkady to Kumarakom and Marari to the airport. All are scenic, and we stop at waterfalls, viewpoints and plantations along the way. Every place has at least one full day without driving.

Can we spend longer on the houseboat?

You can, but we rarely recommend it. One night gives seven or so hours of cruising, a sunset and a quiet morning. A second night tends to repeat the experience in a small space. We would rather add a night at Kumarakom or Marari.

Is this journey suitable for children?

Yes, for children over about six. They enjoy the fishing nets, Kathakali make-up, the tahr, the spice gardens, the boat and the beach. Bamboo rafting is best for children over 12. We can swap a heritage walk for a shorter version and add family rooms.

Can we change the hotels?

Yes. Alternatives include The Malabar House or Taj Malabar in Kochi, Blanket Hotel in Munnar, Kumarakom Lake Resort or Taj Kumarakom on the lake, and pool villas at Marari. Prices change accordingly. We suggest the mix that suits your style.

How much does this journey cost?

From about ₹3,25,000 per person, twin sharing, at the hotels named, with a private car, guides, the houseboat and the activities listed. Christmas and New Year, pool villas and larger houseboats cost more. Flights are extra. We send a detailed quote for your dates.

Can we add Ayurveda to this trip?

Yes. Spice Village, Coconut Lagoon and Marari Beach all have Ayurveda centres where you can book a consultation and treatments. These are relaxing additions rather than therapy. For a full programme of 14 nights or more, see our Kovalam Ayurveda journey.

Do we need a guide everywhere?

We include local guides for the heritage walks in Kochi, the tea estates in Munnar, Periyar and the bird sanctuary, where they add a great deal. Your driver handles everything else. Beach days at Marari are free unless you choose a fishing village or cycling outing.

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