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Tales of Luxury

Himalayan indigo and rhododendron · Nepal

Nepal

Nepal packs the Himalaya, the Newar cities of the Kathmandu Valley and the lowland jungles of the Terai into a country a little larger than England. Go in October–November or March–April, allow 7–14 nights, and pair a mountain stay with Kathmandu and a safari in Chitwan or Bardia.

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Nepal, in brief

Best monthsOct – Nov, Mar – Apr
Main airportsTribhuvan International, Kathmandu (KTM); domestic hops to Pokhara, Bharatpur, Bhairahawa, Nepalgunj, Lukla
Ideal length7–14 nights
CurrencyNepalese rupee (NPR); Indian rupee notes of ₹100 and below widely accepted
LanguagesNepali, Newar, Tharu, Sherpa; English in hotels
PermitsVisa on arrival for most nationalities, none for Indians; park and trekking permits
Time zoneUTC+5:45 (15 minutes ahead of IST)

Nepal runs about 885 km east to west and rises from roughly 60 m in the southern plains to 8,849 m on the summit of Everest, all within a band some 200 km wide. That compression is the reason to come. In a single week we can put you in a carved Newar courtyard in Kathmandu, on a ridge facing the Annapurnas at sunrise, and in a jeep on the floodplains of Chitwan watching a one-horned rhino graze. Distances on the map are short; the roads are slow, so we use short domestic flights wherever they save a day.

The Kathmandu Valley holds seven monument zones inscribed together as one UNESCO World Heritage Site: the Durbar Squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, the stupas of Swayambhunath and Boudhanath, the Hindu temple complex at Pashupatinath and the hilltop temple of Changu Narayan. The 2015 earthquake damaged many of them. Much has been rebuilt by Newar craftsmen using traditional methods, and watching that work is part of a visit. We spend at least three nights here, with a private guide who knows which courtyards are open.

The mountains are the draw for most travellers, and you do not need to trek to see them. Dawn flights and helicopter tours reach the Everest massif from Kathmandu in under an hour. Pokhara, at 822 m, sits beneath Machapuchare and the Annapurna range with lodges that face the peaks. For those who want to walk, short lodge-to-lodge routes in the Annapurna foothills and the Khumbu cover 4–6 hours a day with porters carrying the bags.

South of the hills lies the Terai, flat and green and hot for much of the year. Chitwan National Park, Nepal's first, is the easiest place in South Asia to see the greater one-horned rhinoceros. Bardia, far to the west, is quieter and wilder, with better odds of a tiger. Lumbini, birthplace of the Buddha, is a short flight from Kathmandu and sits naturally in a journey that also takes in the jungle.

Why go

Reasons to go, plainly

Everest before breakfast

A dawn mountain flight from Kathmandu runs along the Himalaya to Everest and back in about an hour. A helicopter goes further, landing briefly near Kala Patthar at about 5,545 m when the weather allows, then stopping for breakfast at Hotel Everest View, 3,880 m, facing Everest and Ama Dablam.

Seven monument zones in one valley

Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur were rival Newar kingdoms, each with its own palace square of pagoda temples and carved windows. Add the stupas of Boudhanath and Swayambhunath, the cremation ghats of Pashupatinath and the temple of Changu Narayan, and you have a week of heritage within 20 km.

Rhinos on the Rapti floodplain

Chitwan National Park protects grassland and sal forest along the Rapti and Narayani rivers. Jeep safaris, dugout canoe trips past gharial and mugger crocodiles, and guided walks give good odds of the greater one-horned rhinoceros, and a small chance of a tiger, from riverside lodges such as Meghauli Serai.

Annapurna dawn from Pokhara

Pokhara lies at 822 m on the shore of Phewa Lake, with Machapuchare at 6,993 m rising almost directly above. From Sarangkot or a ridge-top lodge, the first light catches Dhaulagiri, the Annapurnas and Manaslu in turn. It is the softest introduction to the high Himalaya in the country.

The Buddha's birthplace

At Lumbini, a marker stone inside the Maya Devi Temple identifies the spot where Siddhartha Gautama is believed to have been born. Beside it stands the Ashoka Pillar, inscribed around 249 BCE, and beyond lies a monastic zone of temples built by Buddhist nations from Myanmar to Germany.

The walled city of Lo

Upper Mustang, behind the Annapurnas in the Tibetan rain shadow, opened to outsiders only in 1992 and still needs a restricted-area permit. Lo Manthang, at about 3,840 m, keeps its mud-brick walls, painted gompas and cliff caves. Shinta Mani Mustang in Jomsom makes a comfortable base for the lower valley.

The map

Where to go in Nepal

Map of Annapurna Foothills, Bandipur, Bardia, Bhaktapur, Chitwan, Dhulikhel, Everest Region (Khumbu), Kathmandu, Lumbini, Mustang, Patan, PokharaIndiaChinaNepalAnnapurna Foothills1Bandipur2Bardia3Bhaktapur4Chitwan5Dhulikhel6Everest Region (Khumbu)7Kathmandu8Lumbini9Mustang10Patan11Pokhara12200 kmN
  1. 1Annapurna Foothills
  2. 2Bandipur
  3. 3Bardia
  4. 4Bhaktapur
  5. 5Chitwan
  6. 6Dhulikhel
  7. 7Everest Region (Khumbu)
  8. 8Kathmandu
  9. 9Lumbini
  10. 10Mustang
  11. 11Patan
  12. 12Pokhara
Drawn by Tales of Luxury from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.
Annapurna Foothills
village Annapurna Foothills

Gurung villages and Poon Hill dawn on short, guided walks

Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Nov · 2–4 nights
Bandipur
village Bandipur

A car-free Newar bazaar on the old road between India and Tibet

Best Feb – Mar · Oct – Dec · 1 nights
Bardia
national park Bardia

Tigers, wild elephants and the Karnali river in Nepal's far west

Best Nov – Apr · 3–4 nights
Bhaktapur
city Bhaktapur

Brick squares, potters and the five-tiered Nyatapola temple

Best Feb – Apr · Oct – Nov · Day trip nights
Chitwan
national park Chitwan

Rhinos, gharials and sal forest in Nepal's first national park

Best Oct – Mar · 2–3 nights
Dhulikhel
hill station Dhulikhel

A Himalayan view and a wellness retreat an hour from Kathmandu

Best Feb – Mar · Oct – Dec · 2 nights
Everest Region (Khumbu)
valley Everest Region (Khumbu)

Sherpa villages, Tengboche and Everest views on lodge-to-lodge walks

Best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 4–9 nights
Kathmandu
city Kathmandu

Stupas, temples and royal squares in Nepal's capital valley

Best Feb – Apr · Oct – Nov · 3 nights
Lumbini
heritage site Lumbini

The birthplace of the Buddha, in the plains of southern Nepal

Best Feb – Mar · Oct – Nov · 1–2 nights
Mustang
valley Mustang

Rain-shadow valleys, Muktinath and the walled city of Lo Manthang

Best Apr – Jun · Sep – Oct · 4–6 nights
Patan
city Patan

Newar temples, a palace museum and bronze casters across the river

Best Feb – Apr · Oct – Nov · Day trip nights
Pokhara
lake town Pokhara

Lake town at 822 m with the Annapurnas on the skyline

Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Dec · 2–4 nights

Journeys

Routes through Nepal

Indicative prices per person, twin sharing, at the hotels named. Every route can be changed.

Chitwan and Bardia: Rhino and Tiger Country
Nepal · 10 nights Chitwan and Bardia: Rhino and Tiger Country Kathmandu · Chitwan · Bardia · Kathmandu From₹5,40,000 pp
Everest by helicopter and Pokhara
Nepal · 6 nights Everest by helicopter and Pokhara Kathmandu · Pokhara From₹3,40,000 pp
Everest Lodge to Lodge: Namche and Thame
Nepal · 12 nights Everest Lodge to Lodge: Namche and Thame Kathmandu · Everest Region (Khumbu) · Kathmandu From₹4,90,000 pp
A short Everest walk to Namche Bazaar
Nepal · 7 nights A short Everest walk to Namche Bazaar Kathmandu · Everest Region (Khumbu) · Kathmandu From₹3,40,000 pp
Nepal Family Holiday: Temples, Rhinos, Lakes
Nepal · 10 nights Nepal Family Holiday: Temples, Rhinos, Lakes Kathmandu · Chitwan · Pokhara · Kathmandu From₹4,90,000 pp
Himalayan foothills wellness retreat
Nepal · 7 nights Himalayan foothills wellness retreat Kathmandu · Dhulikhel · Pokhara From₹3,10,000 pp
Himalaya, lakes and rhinos
Nepal · 8 nights Himalaya, lakes and rhinos Kathmandu · Pokhara · Chitwan From₹3,80,000 pp
Nepal Honeymoon: Hills, Lakes and Rhinos
Nepal · 9 nights Nepal Honeymoon: Hills, Lakes and Rhinos Kathmandu · Dhulikhel · Pokhara · Chitwan From₹4,60,000 pp
Nepal in Depth: Valley, Hills and Terai
Nepal · 14 nights Nepal in Depth: Valley, Hills and Terai Kathmandu · Dhulikhel · Bandipur · Pokhara · Chitwan · Lumbini · Kathmandu From₹6,20,000 pp
Kathmandu, Bandipur and Pokhara by road
Nepal · 7 nights Kathmandu, Bandipur and Pokhara by road Kathmandu · Bandipur · Pokhara From₹2,90,000 pp
Kathmandu Valley in festival season
Nepal · 7 nights Kathmandu Valley in festival season Kathmandu · Dhulikhel · Kathmandu From₹3,00,000 pp
Kathmandu Valley and Dhulikhel short break
Nepal · 5 nights Kathmandu Valley and Dhulikhel short break Kathmandu · Dhulikhel From₹2,20,000 pp
Lumbini and the Buddhist heart of Nepal
Nepal · 8 nights Lumbini and the Buddhist heart of Nepal Kathmandu · Lumbini · Chitwan · Kathmandu From₹3,60,000 pp
Mustang: Shinta Mani and Lo Manthang
Nepal · 10 nights Mustang: Shinta Mani and Lo Manthang Kathmandu · Pokhara · Mustang · Kathmandu From₹8,50,000 pp
Pokhara and the Annapurna Foothills
Nepal · 9 nights Pokhara and the Annapurna Foothills Kathmandu · Pokhara · Annapurna Foothills · Pokhara From₹4,20,000 pp

Where we book

Stays in Nepal

All stays →
Dwarika's Hotel
heritage haveli · Kathmandu Dwarika's Hotel

Kathmandu's most characterful hotel, built in Newar style around brick courtyards set with carved windows, doors and pillars rescued from old valley buildings. It sits in …

Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel
resort · Dhulikhel Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel

A hillside wellness resort at Dhulikhel, about 30 km east of Kathmandu, built in brick and stone on terraces facing the Himalaya. Yoga, meditation, spa therapies …

Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge
resort · Pokhara Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge

A small lodge of stone cottages on a ridge above the Pokhara valley, facing Machapuchare and the Annapurna range. It has a pool, a long terrace …

The Pavilions Himalayas
villa · Pokhara The Pavilions Himalayas

An eco-resort of private villas set on a working organic farm in the countryside outside Pokhara. Villas face rice terraces and forested hills, the spa and …

Meghauli Serai, A Taj Safari
safari lodge · Chitwan Meghauli Serai, A Taj Safari

A Taj Safaris lodge on the banks of the Rapti River in western Chitwan, facing the national park across the water. Rooms and villas draw on …

Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge
safari lodge · Bardia Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge

A small Tharu-style lodge on the edge of Bardia National Park in far-western Nepal, run by Tiger Tops, the company that pioneered wildlife lodges in the …

Yeti Mountain Home
boutique hotel · Everest Region (Khumbu) Yeti Mountain Home

A chain of comfortable mountain lodges along the Everest trail at Lukla, Phakding, Monjo, Namche, Kongde and Thame. Attached bathrooms, warm dining rooms and good food …

Shinta Mani Mustang
resort · Mustang Shinta Mani Mustang

A Bill Bensley-designed luxury lodge in Jomsom, at 2,720 m in the Kali Gandaki valley, and the most comfortable place to stay in Mustang. Stays are …

Nepal by travel style

Getting there

Arriving in Nepal

Nearly every international traveller arrives at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu (KTM), with direct flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Varanasi as well as Doha, Dubai, Istanbul and Bangkok; Delhi to Kathmandu takes about 1.5 hours. Gautam Buddha International Airport at Bhairahawa (BWA), near Lumbini, and Pokhara International (PHH) have few international routes, so check current status before you travel. Inside Nepal we fly wherever the road is long: Kathmandu to Pokhara takes 25 minutes against 6–8 hours by road, Bharatpur for Chitwan 25 minutes, Nepalgunj for Bardia an hour, and Lukla for Everest about 35 minutes. Travellers from India can also cross by road at Sunauli–Belahiya, Raxaul–Birgunj or Panitanki–Kakarbhitta, though the drives onward are long.

Permits

Paperwork to know

Indian nationals need no visa, only a valid passport or voter ID. Most other nationalities can buy a visa on arrival in Kathmandu: 15 days for USD 30, 30 days for USD 50 and 90 days for USD 125. National parks charge daily or per-visit entry fees, and trekking areas need their own permits: ACAP for the Annapurnas, Sagarmatha National Park and the Khumbu municipality fee for Everest, and a restricted-area permit of USD 500 for 10 days for Upper Mustang. Since 2023 most foreign trekkers must walk with a licensed guide. We arrange all of these; check current status before you travel.

Permit checker →

Guides

Read before Nepal

Best time to visit Nepal: a month-by-month guide
Nepal · 6 min read Best time to visit Nepal: a month-by-month guide

October and November are the best months to visit Nepal: dry, clear air and the sharpest mountain views of the year. March and April …

Chitwan vs Bardia: which Nepal safari park
Nepal · 6 min read Chitwan vs Bardia: which Nepal safari park

Choose Chitwan for an easy first safari: a 25-minute flight from Kathmandu, reliable rhino sightings and more lodge choice. Choose Bardia for wilderness and …

Everest mountain flight vs helicopter tour
Nepal · 6 min read Everest mountain flight vs helicopter tour

Choose the Everest mountain flight if you want a one-hour dawn view of the peaks for a modest cost, with no altitude risk. Choose …

Nepal festivals calendar: month by month
Nepal · 6 min read Nepal festivals calendar: month by month

Nepal's biggest festivals fall between late August and November: Indra Jatra in Kathmandu, Dashain and Tihar nationwide, and Mani Rimdu at Tengboche. Spring brings …

A 10-day Nepal plan for first-time visitors
Nepal · 6 min read A 10-day Nepal plan for first-time visitors

For a first visit, spend 10 days and 9 nights this way: three nights in Kathmandu for the valley's heritage and an Everest mountain …

Nepali food: what to eat and where
Nepal · 6 min read Nepali food: what to eat and where

Nepali food starts with dal bhat, lentils with rice, vegetables and pickle, eaten twice a day across the country. Around it sit momo dumplings, …

Kathmandu Valley heritage sites: the seven zones
Nepal · 6 min read Kathmandu Valley heritage sites: the seven zones

The Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site, inscribed by UNESCO in 1979, has seven monument zones: the Durbar Squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, the …

Luxury lodges and hotels of Nepal
Nepal · 6 min read Luxury lodges and hotels of Nepal

Nepal's best stays are small, characterful lodges rather than big resorts. In Kathmandu we use Dwarika's Hotel; in Dhulikhel, Dwarika's Resort; in Pokhara, Tiger …

Walking in Nepal for non-trekkers
Nepal · 6 min read Walking in Nepal for non-trekkers

You do not need to be a trekker to walk in Nepal. Short guided walks from lodges near Dhulikhel, Bandipur and Pokhara take two …

Nepal visas and trekking permits explained
Nepal · 6 min read Nepal visas and trekking permits explained

Most visitors get a Nepal visa on arrival at Kathmandu airport: USD 30 for 15 days, USD 50 for 30 days, USD 125 for …

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Nepal

What is the best time to visit Nepal?

October and November are the best months, with clear post-monsoon skies, sharp mountain views and comfortable temperatures. March and April come second, with warm days and rhododendrons in flower, though haze builds by late April. December to February is cold but clear and quiet. June to September is the monsoon: cloud, rain and landslides, except in Mustang, which lies in the rain shadow and is at its best then.

Do Indian citizens need a visa for Nepal?

No. Indian nationals need no visa for Nepal and can enter with a valid passport or a voter ID card. Children can use a passport or a school identity document with a photo. Carry a passport if you plan to fly within Nepal, take a helicopter tour or enter a restricted area, as some operators ask for it. Rules on identity documents can change, so check current status before you travel.

How many days do I need in Nepal?

Allow at least 7 nights for a first trip: three in Kathmandu, two or three in Pokhara and two in Chitwan. Ten to twelve nights lets you add Dhulikhel or Bandipur, a short lodge walk in the Annapurna foothills or an Everest helicopter day. Fourteen nights covers the valley, the mountains, the jungle and Lumbini at an unhurried pace, with domestic flights for the longer hops.

Can I see Mount Everest without trekking?

Yes. A dawn mountain flight from Kathmandu runs along the range to Everest and back in about an hour without landing. A helicopter tour takes about four to five hours, lands briefly near Kala Patthar at about 5,545 m when weather allows, and stops for breakfast at Hotel Everest View at 3,880 m. Both depend on clear weather, so we schedule them early in your stay.

Is Nepal safe for luxury travellers?

Nepal is generally safe for visitors, and violent crime against travellers is rare. The real risks are road travel on hill highways, altitude sickness above 3,000 m, and weather delays on mountain flights. We use experienced private drivers, plan altitude gains carefully and build buffer days around Lukla and Jomsom flights. Petty theft occurs in crowded areas such as Thamel, so keep valuables in your hotel safe.

Which currency should I carry to Nepal?

Carry Nepalese rupees for markets, tips and temple fees. Indian rupee notes of ₹100 and below are widely accepted, but rules on higher-denomination Indian notes have changed several times, so check current status before you travel. ATMs are common in Kathmandu and Pokhara but scarce in the Khumbu and Mustang. Our luxury hotels accept international credit cards, sometimes with a small surcharge.

How do I travel between Kathmandu, Pokhara and Chitwan?

Fly where possible. Kathmandu to Pokhara is a 25-minute flight against 6–8 hours on the Prithvi Highway, and Kathmandu to Bharatpur for Chitwan is about 25 minutes against 5–6 hours by road. Pokhara to Chitwan has no regular flight, so we drive it in a private car in about 4–5 hours. Road works and landslides can lengthen any drive, especially in the monsoon.

Will I get altitude sickness in Nepal?

Not in Kathmandu at 1,400 m, Pokhara at 822 m or the Terai. Altitude sickness becomes a risk above about 2,500–3,000 m, which matters in the Khumbu, Mustang and on higher Annapurna routes. We limit sleeping altitude gains to 300–500 m a day above 3,000 m, include a rest day at Namche, and descend at once if symptoms appear. Helicopter tours keep high landings short for this reason.

What should I wear when visiting temples in Nepal?

Cover shoulders and knees at temples, monasteries and stupas, and remove shoes and leather items where asked. Walk clockwise around stupas and prayer wheels. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple at Pashupatinath, though the ghats and outer complex are open. Ask before photographing people, cremations or rituals. A light scarf is useful for both modesty and the cool mornings in the Kathmandu Valley.

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