Bandipur
A car-free Newar bazaar on the old road between India and Tibet
Bandipur sits on a saddle of the Mahabharat hills at about 1,030 m, 8 km up a winding road from Dumre on the Prithvi Highway. Newar traders from the Kathmandu Valley settled here in the 18th century, when it was a staging post on the trade route between India and Tibet. They built a main street of tall brick houses with carved windows, shuttered shopfronts and slate roofs. When the highway was built along the valley floor in the 1970s, trade moved down to Dumre, and Bandipur grew quiet.
That quiet has kept the old town intact. The main bazaar is closed to vehicles, so you walk its length on stone paving, past cafés, small shops and families sitting on their steps. Above the town, the Thani Mai hilltop and the Tundikhel terrace look north across the Marsyangdi valley to the Himalaya, from Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas to Manaslu and Langtang on clear days. Below, trails lead down to Siddha Gufa, often called the largest cave in Nepal, and along the ridge to the Magar village of Ramkot.
We suggest one night here, usually between Kathmandu and Pokhara, which turns a long drive of 6 to 8 hours into two easier halves. Bandipur is about 145 km from Kathmandu, 4.5 to 5 hours, and about 75 km from Pokhara, 2 to 2.5 hours. It also links well with Chitwan, about 2.5 to 3 hours south. Rooms in Bandipur are simple rather than luxurious, and we use The Old Inn, a restored Newar house on the bazaar, for its character and its position in the old street.
Highlights
What Bandipur does best
Bandipur's main street runs for a few hundred metres between tall Newar houses with carved windows and wooden shutters. With no traffic, it is a place to wander, sit at a café table and watch the town go about its day. Evening, when lamps come on in the doorways, is the quietest hour.
A steep 30-minute climb from the bazaar leads to the small Thani Mai shrine on the hilltop, with the best sunrise view in Bandipur. On clear mornings the Himalaya stretches from Dhaulagiri to Langtang, with the Marsyangdi valley still in mist below. Bring a torch for the steps.
The old open ground at the edge of town, shaded by large trees, is said to have been a gathering place for traders. Today it is a flat terrace with a wide view of the Himalaya and the valley below. It is an easy five-minute walk from the bazaar and ideal at sunset.
Often described as the largest cave in Nepal, Siddha Gufa lies below Bandipur, about 1.5 hours down a steep forest path. Local guides lead visitors inside with torches to see the main chamber and its rock formations. The car collects you at the highway below, so there is no climb back.
A gentle half-day walk west along the ridge leads to Ramkot, a Magar village of round, thatched houses and terraced fields. The path passes small farms and patches of forest with mountain views. Where possible we arrange tea with a village family before the walk back.
Bandipur breaks the long drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara into two shorter days, with time to walk and rest in between. It also links well to Chitwan, about 2.5 to 3 hours south. One night is enough for most guests, two for those who want the cave or Ramkot.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Bandipur
From Kathmandu, Bandipur is about 145 km west, 4.5 to 5 hours on the Prithvi Highway to Dumre, then 8 km up a winding hill road. From Pokhara it is about 75 km, 2 to 2.5 hours. Roadworks on the Prithvi Highway can add time; check current status before you travel.
The nearest airports are Pokhara International (PHH), about 75 km away, and Bharatpur (BHR), about 80 km and 2.5 hours away, both a short flight from Kathmandu. Many guests drive one way through Bandipur and fly the other, which avoids a full day on the road in both directions.
Inside Bandipur everything is on foot. The bazaar, Tundikhel and the hotels lie within a few hundred metres of the car park, and hotel staff help with luggage. Paths to Thani Mai, Siddha Gufa and Ramkot are steep in parts, so good walking shoes help.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
Bandipur has no luxury hotel, and we say so plainly. The best place to stay is The Old Inn, a restored Newar house on the car-free bazaar, with simple, characterful rooms. Comfort is that of a good heritage guesthouse rather than a five-star hotel, which suits one night between Kathmandu and Pokhara. A few other guesthouses line the bazaar, and some hill resorts sit on the ridge outside town, but we prefer staying in the old street itself, where evenings are quietest once the day visitors from the highway have left.
From our planners
Five things to know
- Pack a small overnight bag, as cars stop at the edge of the bazaar and the walk to your room is short but on stone paving.
- Bring a torch for the early climb to Thani Mai and for evening walks, as street lighting is limited.
- Plan Bandipur as a stop between Kathmandu and Pokhara, or on the way to Chitwan, rather than as a return trip.
- Wear proper walking shoes for Siddha Gufa, as the path is steep and the cave floor is wet and slippery.
- Keep cash in Nepalese rupees, as most cafés and shops in the bazaar do not accept cards.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Bandipur
How far is Bandipur from Kathmandu?
Bandipur is about 145 km west of Kathmandu, 4.5 to 5 hours by private car on the Prithvi Highway to Dumre, followed by 8 km of winding hill road. Roadworks and traffic can add time, so check current status before you travel. We usually stop for lunch on the way and arrive in the afternoon.
How far is Bandipur from Pokhara?
About 75 km, or 2 to 2.5 hours by private car, east along the Prithvi Highway to Dumre and up the hill road. That makes Bandipur an easy overnight stop between Kathmandu and Pokhara, or a long day trip from Pokhara, though we prefer to stay the night for sunset and sunrise.
Is Bandipur worth visiting?
Yes, as an overnight stop on the road between Kathmandu and Pokhara or Chitwan. Its car-free Newar bazaar, Himalayan views and village walks give a sense of old hill-town Nepal that the bigger cities have lost. It is a small place, so one night suits most guests, and two nights allow both the cave and the Ramkot walk.
Are there luxury hotels in Bandipur?
No. Bandipur has no true luxury hotel. The best option is The Old Inn, a restored Newar house on the bazaar with simple, characterful rooms. It is comfortable for one night, but do not expect a pool, a spa or five-star service. For most guests, waking up in the old street makes up for it.
How many nights should I stay in Bandipur?
One night is right for most travellers: arrive in the afternoon, walk the bazaar and Tundikhel at sunset, climb Thani Mai at dawn and leave after breakfast. Two nights give time for the Siddha Gufa cave and the walk to Ramkot. Our Kathmandu, Bandipur and Pokhara journey and our 14-night journey each include one night here.
What is the best time to visit Bandipur?
October to December is best, with clear skies and Himalayan views at sunrise and sunset. February and March are also good. April and May are warmer and hazier. June to September is the monsoon, with cloud, muddy paths, leeches and slower roads, so we avoid it. Winter nights are cool, around 5 °C, so bring warm layers.
Can I go from Bandipur to Chitwan?
Yes. Chitwan is about 2.5 to 3 hours south of Bandipur by road via Mugling and Bharatpur, which is shorter than the drive from Kathmandu. Meghauli Serai, on the western side of the park, is about 1 to 1.5 hours beyond Bharatpur. Bandipur therefore fits well between Kathmandu and Chitwan, or between Chitwan and Pokhara.
Is Bandipur suitable for families?
Yes. The car-free bazaar is safe for children to walk, the Thani Mai climb and the Ramkot walk are short enough for most school-age children, and the Siddha Gufa cave is a favourite with older ones. Rooms are simple, so families should not expect large suites or a pool. One or two nights work well.
Who built Bandipur?
Newar merchants from the Kathmandu Valley, many of them from Bhaktapur, settled in Bandipur in the 18th century and built its brick houses and temples. It was then a busy stop on the trade route between India and Tibet. The Magar people, who lived in the surrounding hills long before, still farm villages such as Ramkot nearby.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Bandipur
Nearby
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