Nepal's classic first journey in eight nights: three in Kathmandu for the temples and stupas of the valley, two on a ridge above Pokhara facing Annapurna and Machapuchare, and three at Meghauli Serai in Chitwan National Park for jeep and canoe safaris among one-horned rhinos.
In just over a week this journey crosses three different Nepals. Kathmandu, at 1,400 m, is a valley of temples, stupas and Newar towns, seven of them grouped as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Pokhara, at 822 m, lies beside Phewa Lake under a wall of peaks, with Machapuchare 6,993 m and Annapurna I 8,091 m close enough to fill the window. Chitwan, in the lowland Terai, is grassland and sal forest where the greater one-horned rhinoceros is seen on most drives.
We use three properties we know well. Dwarika's Hotel in Kathmandu is built from centuries-old carved woodwork. Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge is a set of stone cottages on a ridge above the valley, with walks from the door. Meghauli Serai, a Taj Safari lodge on the Rapti River at the western side of Chitwan, has a pool facing the water and the park. Short flights link Kathmandu to Pokhara and Bharatpur to Kathmandu, and the one long drive, Pokhara to Chitwan, takes about five hours.
Highlights
Why this route works
Swayambhunath, Patan and Bhaktapur with a private guide
Sunrise over the Annapurnas from Sarangkot
Ridge walks from Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge
Jeep safaris for one-horned rhino in Chitwan
Dugout canoe on the Rapti among gharial and mugger
Day by day
The journey
Day01
Arrive in Kathmandu
Overnight: Kathmandu≈ 3 km · 15 minMeals: Dinner
Our representative meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and drives you to Dwarika's Hotel in Battisputali, a few minutes away. The hotel's courtyards are lined with carved Newari windows and doorways salvaged from old houses, and the pool is a quiet place to spend the afternoon. At about 5 pm your guide takes you to Boudhanath, the largest stupa in the valley, to join the evening kora as Tibetan families walk clockwise turning prayer wheels. Dinner is at the hotel.
Day02
Swayambhunath, Durbar Square, Patan
Overnight: Kathmandu≈ 25 km · 1.5 h in totalMeals: Breakfast
We begin at Swayambhunath before the crowds, climbing the stone stairway to the hilltop stupa where monkeys play on the railings; children usually love it. Next is Kathmandu Durbar Square, with Hanuman Dhoka palace and the Kumari Ghar, home of the living goddess. After lunch we cross the Bagmati to Patan, 5 km south. The Patan Museum holds the finest Himalayan religious art in Nepal, and a few lanes away family workshops cast bronze statues by the lost-wax method, which you can watch at close range.
Day03
Bhaktapur and Pashupatinath
Overnight: Kathmandu≈ 35 km · 2 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Dinner
Bhaktapur lies 13 km east and is the best preserved of the valley's three royal cities. Your guide walks you through Durbar Square, past the 55-Window Palace and the Golden Gate, to Taumadhi Square and the five-tiered Nyatapola temple of 1702, then to Pottery Square where clay is still thrown on hand-turned wheels. Try juju dhau, the town's rich curd. A municipal entry fee applies to foreign visitors; check current status before you travel. In the evening we visit Pashupatinath on the Bagmati for the aarti on the ghats.
Day04
Fly to Pokhara and the ridge
Overnight: PokharaMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
A 25-minute flight takes you west to Pokhara; sit on the right for the Manaslu and Annapurna ranges. Your car takes you up to Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge, stone cottages on a ridge above the Pokhara valley with Annapurna, Machapuchare and Dhaulagiri on the skyline. After lunch on the terrace and time by the pool, a lodge guide leads a walk of about two hours along the ridge, through farms and Gurung villages, timed so you are back for the evening light on the peaks.
Day05
Sarangkot dawn and Phewa Lake
Overnight: Pokhara≈ 40 km · 1.5 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
We leave before dawn for Sarangkot, about 1,600 m, to watch Dhaulagiri 8,167 m, Annapurna I and Machapuchare catch the first light. After breakfast at the lodge we drive down to Phewa Lake and take a wooden boat to the island temple of Tal Barahi, then on to the far shore, where a forest path climbs for about an hour to the World Peace Pagoda. In the afternoon, the International Mountain Museum is good for older children, or you can rest at the lodge. Tandem paragliding from Sarangkot can be added.
Day06
Down to Chitwan and the Rapti
Overnight: Chitwan≈ 170 km · 5 hMeals: Breakfast, Dinner
We drive south after breakfast, down the Seti and Trishuli valleys to Mugling and then out onto the flat Terai, stopping for lunch on the way. The temperature rises with every hour and the hills give way to rice fields and sal forest. Meghauli Serai, a Taj Safari lodge, sits on the bank of the Rapti River on the western side of Chitwan National Park, with a pool facing the river and the park beyond. We arrive in time for tea and a sunset walk along the bank, where rhinos sometimes graze.
Day07
Jeep safari and canoe on the Rapti
Overnight: ChitwanMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Chitwan, Nepal's first national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984, covers about 952 km2 of grassland, river and forest. Early morning is the best time, so we set off by jeep with a naturalist soon after first light. Greater one-horned rhinos are seen on most drives; spotted deer, wild boar and peacocks are common; tigers live here but are rarely seen. In the afternoon a dugout canoe drifts down the river past gharial and mugger crocodiles on the banks and kingfishers on every branch.
Day08
Walking safari and a Tharu village
Overnight: ChitwanMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
This morning we explore the park on foot with two experienced naturalists, reading tracks and listening for alarm calls from deer and monkeys. Walks are kept short and suited to the group; children must be old enough to stay quiet and follow instructions. Late morning is for the pool. In the afternoon we visit a Tharu village, the people of the Terai, to see their mud-and-thatch houses, painted walls and farming life. Birders can take a second drive instead: Chitwan's bird list is one of the longest in Asia.
Day09
Fly to Kathmandu and depart
Overnight: Departure≈ 40 km · 1–1.5 h to BharatpurMeals: Breakfast
A last early drive or a slow breakfast by the river, then we take you to Bharatpur Airport for the 25-minute flight to Kathmandu. We book a morning or midday flight and leave at least four hours before your international departure, since domestic flights are sometimes delayed by fog in winter or cloud. Our representative meets you in Kathmandu and takes you to the international terminal. With a late flight, we can arrange a day room at Dwarika's Hotel and lunch at the hotel.
Chitwan National Park charges a daily fee of about NPR 2,000 for foreigners; check current status before you travel
Chitwan is warm in winter days but mornings are foggy and cold from December to January; bring a fleece
Wear muted greens and browns on safari and avoid bright colours
Bharatpur flights can be delayed by winter fog; we leave a buffer before international flights
Mountain views at Pokhara are clearest from October to February
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Will we see a rhino in Chitwan?
Very likely. The greater one-horned rhinoceros is seen on most jeep drives in Chitwan, and sometimes from the Rapti riverbank at Meghauli Serai. Three nights give you several drives, a canoe trip and a walk, which makes a sighting close to certain from October to April. Nothing in the wild is guaranteed, but rhinos are the most reliable large animal in the park.
Can we see a tiger in Chitwan?
Possibly, but do not count on it. Chitwan has a healthy Bengal tiger population, yet the tall grass and dense sal forest make sightings rare. Your best chance is from February to April, after the grass is cut and animals come to water. If tigers are your priority, Bardia in the far west gives better odds; we can add it in a longer journey.
Is this journey good for families?
Yes, it is our most popular family itinerary. Children enjoy the monkeys at Swayambhunath, the boat on Phewa Lake, the canoe and jeep safaris and the pools at each lodge. Drives are short except for the five hours from Pokhara to Chitwan, which we break with lunch. Walking safaris need children old enough to stay quiet; naturalists set the minimum age.
Why Meghauli Serai and not other Chitwan lodges?
Meghauli Serai, a Taj Safari lodge, is on the western side of Chitwan, which is quieter than Sauraha, and sits right on the Rapti River with a pool facing the park. Its naturalists and food are of a high standard. Good alternatives include Barahi Jungle Lodge, Kasara Resort and Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge at Amaltari, all well run.
Do you include elephant rides?
No. We do not book elephant rides anywhere, for animal welfare reasons. In Chitwan we use open jeeps with naturalists, dugout canoes on the river and guided walks instead, which in our view give better wildlife viewing and a quieter approach to rhinos. Some lodges offer visits to observe elephants without riding them, which we can arrange on request.
When is the best time to visit Chitwan?
October to March is best for comfort, with dry trails and warm days. February to April gives the best visibility, after the annual grass-cutting, though April turns hot. From April to June days can pass 35 °C. July to September is monsoon: some areas flood and several lodges close. December and January mornings are foggy and cool until about 10 am.
Can we fly from Pokhara to Chitwan instead of driving?
Not directly on a regular schedule. The usual options are the drive of about five hours via Mugling, or a flight back through Kathmandu, which takes most of a day with connections. The drive is the more practical choice, and we break it with lunch. A helicopter charter is possible at extra cost if you would rather avoid the road.
Is Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge right for children?
Yes, for families who like walks. The lodge has stone cottages spread along a ridge, a pool, open lawns and guided walks starting at the door, and it is calm at night. It is above the valley, so you drive about half an hour to Phewa Lake. For families wanting a lakeside base, Fish Tail Lodge on Phewa is a good alternative.
How much walking does this journey involve?
Moderate and optional. Kathmandu days involve two to three hours on brick lanes and temple steps. The ridge walks at Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge run two to four hours, and the path to the World Peace Pagoda takes about an hour up. The Chitwan walking safari is two to three hours on flat ground. All of these can be shortened.
