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Tales of Luxury
Kerala10 nights · 11 daysUnhurried

The slow coast from Kovalam to Marari

A ten-night journey up Kerala's coast for travellers who want sea, rest and a little culture: Kovalam's headlands and the old Travancore capital, the red cliffs and pilgrim beach of Varkala, and four quiet nights in a beach villa at Marari, with a private day on the backwaters.

The slow coast from Kovalam to Marari
Photo: Georgeumartin · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Some travellers come to Kerala for the sea, not the mountains, and this journey is for them. It starts in the south, landing at Thiruvananthapuram, and works north along the coast with only two short drives. At Kovalam you stay on a clifftop above the crescent beaches, with a day in the old capital for its temple quarter, palace and museums, and a dawn boat at Poovar.

Varkala, an hour and a half north, is different again: red laterite cliffs above a beach sacred to Hindu pilgrims, a relaxed clifftop path and good yoga teachers. Then a longer drive takes you past Kollam and Alappuzha to Marari, where four nights in a villa among the palms give time for fishing-village mornings, cycling, Ayurveda and a private day on the backwaters.

Highlights

Why this route works

  1. Clifftop rooms above Kovalam's beaches
  2. Thiruvananthapuram's temple quarter, palace and Raja Ravi Varma paintings
  3. Sunset walks on the red cliffs of Varkala
  4. Four quiet nights in a beach villa at Marari
  5. A private boat day through the backwaters of Kuttanad

Day by day

The journey

Day01

Arrive at Kovalam

Overnight: Kovalam≈ 15 km · 30 minMeals: Dinner

We meet you at Thiruvananthapuram International Airport and drive 30 minutes to The Leela Kovalam, on a headland above Hawa Beach, where most rooms face the sea. Spend the afternoon by the infinity pool or on the hotel's beach. In the evening, walk along the promenade to the striped lighthouse on the Vizhinjam headland as the sun sets.

Day02

The old Travancore capital

Overnight: Kovalam≈ 16 km · 40 minMeals: Breakfast, lunch

Spend the morning in Thiruvananthapuram with a local historian. Walk the East Fort around the Padmanabhaswamy temple, which only Hindus may enter, and visit Kuthiramalika palace with its carved wooden horses. After lunch in the city, see the Napier Museum and the Sree Chitra Art Gallery, with its paintings by Raja Ravi Varma. Return to Kovalam for the evening.

Day03

Poovar and an Ayurveda morning

Overnight: Kovalam≈ 18 km · 40 minMeals: Breakfast

Leave early for Poovar, where a private boat winds through mangrove channels on the Neyyar river to a golden sand bar between the river and the sea. Return for breakfast. Later, have a consultation with an Ayurvedic doctor and a first treatment, perhaps abhyanga or shirodhara. The afternoon is free for the beach.

Day04

Anjengo and the cliffs of Varkala

Overnight: Varkala≈ 60 km · 2 hMeals: Breakfast

Drive north, stopping at Anjengo, one of the East India Company's earliest Kerala trading posts, built in the 1690s on a narrow spit between lagoon and sea, with its fort, cemetery and lighthouse. Continue to Varkala and check in at the best small hotel available on or near the North Cliff. At sunset, walk the clifftop path above the sea.

Day05

Papanasam and Sivagiri

Overnight: VarkalaMeals: Breakfast

Rise early to watch, respectfully and from a distance, families performing rites for their ancestors on Papanasam beach below the cliff. Visit the Janardanaswamy temple area above the beach and drive 3 km inland to Sivagiri, the ashram and samadhi of the reformer Sree Narayana Guru, open to all. The afternoon is free for the beach or a private yoga session.

Day06

Yoga, Kappil and a free day

Overnight: VarkalaMeals: Breakfast

Start with a private yoga session on a terrace facing the sea. Later, drive 8 km north to Kappil, where a backwater lagoon comes within a few metres of the sea, for a quiet walk and a short boat ride. The rest of the day is free. In the evening, choose a clifftop restaurant for fresh seafood and the sunset.

Day07

North along the coast to Marari

Overnight: Marari≈ 135 km · 3.5 hMeals: Breakfast, dinner

Drive north on the coastal highway past Kollam and the Ashtamudi lake, stopping at Ambalappuzha for the Krishna temple, famous for its milk payasam, and for lunch near Alappuzha. Continue to Marari Beach and check in to a villa among the coconut palms behind the beach. Spend the evening on the sand.

Day08

Fishing boats and village lanes

Overnight: MarariMeals: Breakfast

Walk down to the beach at about 6.30 am to watch the fishing crews bring their boats in through the surf and sell the catch on the sand, with a guide from the village. After breakfast, an easy cycle ride through the palm lanes passes temple ponds, churches and a coir-spinning house. The afternoon is free.

Day09

A private day on the backwaters

Overnight: Marari≈ 15 km · 30 minMeals: Breakfast, lunch

Drive to a quiet jetty near Alappuzha and board a private covered boat for a day in the canals of Kuttanad, where rice grows below the level of the water. Lunch is cooked on board. Stop for a walk on the bund and a visit to the old church at Champakulam. Return to Marari in the late afternoon.

Day10

Rest and Arthunkal

Overnight: MarariMeals: Breakfast, dinner

A free day at Marari. In the morning, you may visit the seafront basilica at Arthunkal, about 10 km north, founded by Portuguese missionaries in the 16th century. Otherwise, enjoy the beach, the pool and another Ayurveda treatment. A farewell dinner can be set on the sand.

Day11

Depart from Kochi

≈ 80 km · 2–2.25 hMeals: Breakfast

After breakfast, we drive you to Cochin International Airport, about 2 to 2.25 hours away, allowing extra time for traffic. For a later flight, we can stop in Fort Kochi on the way for lunch and a walk. Our team in India stays in touch until you are through check-in.

Map of Kovalam, Varkala, MarariIndiaKovalam1KovalamVarkala2VarkalaMarari3Marari100 kmN
  1. 1Kovalam 3 nights
  2. 2Varkala 3 nights
  3. 3Marari 4 nights
Drawn by Tales of Luxury from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Included

  • 10 nights' accommodation as listed
  • Daily breakfast and the other meals listed
  • Private air-conditioned car with an English-speaking driver throughout
  • Private guides in Thiruvananthapuram, Varkala and Marari
  • Poovar boat, private backwater day boat with lunch, yoga session
  • One Ayurveda consultation and treatment at Kovalam
  • Airport meet and greet, all transfers and 24-hour support

Not included

  • International and domestic flights
  • Indian visa and travel insurance
  • Meals not listed, drinks and tips
  • Additional spa and Ayurveda treatments
  • Personal expenses

Good to know

  1. Swim only where lifeguards or your resort advise; currents are strong along this coast.
  2. Varkala has small boutique hotels rather than luxury resorts; rooms are simpler for those three nights.
  3. Thiruvananthapuram's museums usually close on Mondays.
  4. Cover shoulders and knees at temples and on Papanasam beach.
  5. This journey is designed for November to March, when seas are calm.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Which is the best beach in Kerala?

It depends on what you want. Marari is the quietest, with a fishing-village feel. Kovalam has luxury hotels, Ayurveda and the capital nearby. Varkala has dramatic cliffs and a relaxed scene. This journey includes all three, so you can compare.

Is it safe to swim in Kerala?

In calm weather from November to March, in lifeguarded areas at Kovalam and Varkala and close to shore at Marari, yes. Currents along this coast can be strong, and the sea is dangerous during the monsoon. Resort pools are the safer choice for children.

Why not stay longer in Varkala?

Three nights is enough for most guests to enjoy the cliffs, the temple, Sivagiri and some yoga, given that hotels there are smaller and simpler. If you want a longer yoga stay, we can extend Varkala and shorten Marari. Tell us your preference.

Can we include a houseboat night?

Yes. One night of the Marari stay can be replaced with a private houseboat from Alappuzha, which is 30 minutes away. Alternatively, keep the day cruise and return to your villa for the night. Choose a premium single-party boat with an air-conditioned bedroom.

Is this journey good for a honeymoon?

Yes. It is relaxed, with sea-view rooms at Kovalam, sunsets at Varkala and a pool villa at Marari, plus Ayurveda and private dinners. Couples who want a hill station can add two nights in Munnar from Kochi at the end.

How much does this journey cost?

From about ₹2,60,000 per person, twin sharing, including hotels, private car, guides, the boat trips and one Ayurveda treatment. Pool villas, sea-view upgrades and Christmas dates cost more. Flights are extra. We send a detailed quote with room options once you share your dates.

Can we fly into Kochi instead?

Yes. The journey can run in reverse, starting at Marari and ending at Kovalam, flying out of Thiruvananthapuram. Choose whichever direction gives you better flights. The order of the stays changes, but the experiences are the same. Tell us your preferred airports when you enquire.

Can we add more Ayurveda?

Yes. All three places have Ayurveda centres, and The Leela Kovalam and Marari Beach have treatments on site. For a therapeutic programme, we recommend a separate 14-night stay at a retreat near Kovalam at the start of the journey. Tell us your goals in advance.

When is the best time for this coastal journey?

November to March, with December to February the calmest and driest. April is hot and humid. From May to September the monsoon brings heavy rain and rough seas, many Varkala cafes close, and swimming is unsafe. Book December and January dates early.

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