Nepallake town

Pokhara

Lake town at 822 m with the Annapurnas on the skyline

Pokhara is Nepal's lake town at 822 m, a 25-minute flight from Kathmandu, where Machapuchare (6,993 m) and the Annapurna range rise within about 30 km of Phewa Lake. We suggest three nights, staying on a ridge or farm above the lakeside crowds, with Sarangkot at dawn and the lake in the late afternoon.

Photo: Utsab Raj Giri · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Pokhara sits in a wide valley in central Nepal, 822 m above sea level, with Phewa Lake along its western edge. What sets it apart is the gap between valley floor and summit. Machapuchare, the 6,993 m fishtail peak that has never been opened to climbers, stands about 25 km north, and Annapurna I (8,091 m), Annapurna South (7,219 m) and Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) line up beside it on clear mornings. Very few towns put a 7,000 m wall this close to a lake you can row across before breakfast, and the view is the reason most people come.

The town itself is a mix. Lakeside, the strip along Phewa's eastern shore, is full of cafes, trekking shops and paragliding offices, and far calmer at 7 am than at 9 pm. Old Pokhara, to the north-east, keeps a few Newar shopfronts and the Bindhyabasini temple on its low hill. We place our guests outside both, on the ridges and farmland that ring the valley, where nights are dark, the morning view comes straight through the window, and town is a 20 to 40 minute drive away when you want it.

Pokhara is also the hinge of most Nepal journeys. Jomsom flights for Mustang leave from here, the Annapurna foothill trailheads at Nayapul and Kande are 45 minutes to 1.5 hours by road, and Chitwan and Bandipur are a half-day drive. Three nights is right for most guests: one morning at Sarangkot, one afternoon on the water, one ridge walk, and time in between to do very little. Four nights suits families, or anyone pairing Pokhara with a few days of easy walking in the hills.

Highlights

What Pokhara does best

Sarangkot at first lightFrom the Sarangkot ridge at about 1,600 m, the sun reaches Dhaulagiri, the Annapurnas and Machapuchare several minutes before it touches the lake below. We drive up in the dark, about 30 minutes from Lakeside, and use a quieter terrace along the ridge instead of the crowded main tower.
Phewa Lake and Tal BarahiPhewa is Nepal's second-largest lake. A wooden rowing boat takes about 15 minutes to reach the two-tiered pagoda of Tal Barahi on its island, and an hour on the water in the late afternoon, as the paragliders land, is one of the gentlest things to do in Nepal.
World Peace PagodaThe white Shanti Stupa stands at about 1,100 m on the forested ridge south of Phewa Lake, built by monks of the Japanese Nipponzan Myohoji order. The walk up from the far shore takes 45 to 60 minutes, and the top looks over the lake, the town and the full Annapurna line.
International Mountain MuseumA large, well-arranged museum on the south side of town covering the 14 peaks above 8,000 m, the peoples of the Himalaya and the history of climbing. Allow 90 minutes. It is the right choice for a cloudy afternoon, and for children who have just seen the mountains for real.
Begnas LakeAbout 15 km east of the centre, Begnas Lake is quieter and greener than Phewa, edged by paddy, fish ponds and forest. We walk the ridge between Begnas and neighbouring Rupa Lake, or take a boat out with a picnic, and rarely meet more than a handful of other visitors.
Ridge lodges and farm villasOur two Pokhara stays sit outside town: Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge, with stone cottages on a ridge facing Machapuchare and the Annapurnas, and The Pavilions Himalayas, with villas on an organic farm. Both make the mountains and the countryside part of the stay rather than a day trip.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

nature · 3 hours Sarangkot sunrise over the Annapurnas Pokhara, Nepal

water · 2 hours Rowing boat to Tal Barahi on Phewa Lake Pokhara, Nepal

spiritual · 3–4 hours Boat and forest walk to the World Peace Pagoda Pokhara, Nepal

adventure · 2–3 hours including a 20–30 min flight Tandem paragliding from Sarangkot Pokhara, Nepal

Getting there

How to reach Pokhara

Air

Flights from Kathmandu take about 25 minutes and run many times a day, weather permitting. Sit on the right side flying west for the Himalaya. Pokhara International Airport (PHH) has very few international routes, so most guests connect through Kathmandu; check current status before you travel. Morning flights are the most reliable.

Road

Kathmandu to Pokhara is about 200 km on the Prithvi Highway: 6 to 8 hours in a private car, slowed by trucks and roadworks. We break the drive at Bandipur (about 145 km from Kathmandu, then 75 km and 2 to 2.5 hours on to Pokhara). From Chitwan the drive is about 150 km and 4 to 5 hours.

Helicopter

A private helicopter charter from Kathmandu takes roughly 45 minutes to an hour, landing at Pokhara airport. It is useful when time is short, when scheduled flights are grounded, or when Pokhara follows an Everest helicopter day. Charters are weather-dependent and priced per aircraft, not per seat.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

We stay outside Lakeside. Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge sits on a ridge above the valley, with stone cottages, a pool, guided walks from the door and the full Annapurna line in front of you. The Pavilions Himalayas (The Farm) has eco-villas on an organic farm outside town, with a spa and pool, and suits guests who want space and quiet. In town, Temple Tree Resort & Spa on Lakeside and Fish Tail Lodge, reached by a short raft ferry across Phewa Lake, suit those who want the cafes and the water on foot.

resort · Pokhara Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge

A small lodge of stone cottages on a ridge above the Pokhara valley, facing Machapuchare and the Annapurna range. It has a pool, a long terrace …

villa · Pokhara The Pavilions Himalayas

An eco-resort of private villas set on a working organic farm in the countryside outside Pokhara. Villas face rice terraces and forested hills, the spa and …

From our planners

Five things to know

Book the first flight of the day from Kathmandu; afternoon cloud and wind cause most of the delays.
Cloud usually covers the peaks by late morning, so plan every mountain view for the first two hours of daylight.
Carry a warm layer to Sarangkot at dawn even in spring, as the ridge is about 800 m above the lake and much colder at that hour.
Paragliding operators vary widely; we book only licensed companies with experienced tandem pilots and take the morning slot.
From June to September the valley is green and quiet but the mountains are rarely visible, so keep monsoon visits short or pair them with Mustang.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Pokhara

How many nights should we spend in Pokhara?

Three nights suits most guests. That gives two mountain mornings in case one is cloudy, a lake afternoon, a ridge or pagoda walk and a day to rest. Families and walkers should take four, and guests heading to Mustang or the Annapurna foothills often add a night before and after. Two nights is the minimum we suggest.

Is it better to fly or drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara?

Fly if time matters. The flight takes about 25 minutes against 6 to 8 hours by road on the busy Prithvi Highway. Drive if you want to see the hills and stop at Bandipur, which breaks the journey into two pleasant days. Many guests fly one way and drive the other, often returning via Chitwan.

When is the best time to see the mountains from Pokhara?

October and November give the clearest, most reliable views, followed by December to February, which are colder but often crisp. March and April bring rhododendrons and warmth but more haze. From June to September, monsoon cloud usually hides the peaks. On any day, the first two hours after sunrise give the best chance.

Where should we stay in Pokhara for a luxury trip?

Stay outside Lakeside for the best views and the most quiet. Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge, on a ridge above the valley, faces Machapuchare and the Annapurnas, and The Pavilions Himalayas offers villas and a spa on an organic farm. Temple Tree Resort & Spa and Fish Tail Lodge suit guests who prefer to be by the lake in town.

Can we see the Himalaya from Pokhara during the monsoon?

Rarely. From June to September cloud covers the range on most days, with heavy rain in the afternoons and nights. A clear hour does sometimes appear at dawn after a night of rain. If you travel in monsoon, keep Pokhara short and consider Mustang, which lies in the rain shadow and is at its best in those months.

Is Pokhara good for a family holiday?

Yes. Distances are short, the lake has rowing and paddle boats, the International Mountain Museum works well for children, and the walks to Sarangkot or the World Peace Pagoda are manageable for most ages. Our ridge and farm lodges have pools and room to run around. Paragliding usually starts from about 8 to 10 years old.

Do we need a permit to visit Pokhara?

No permit is needed for Pokhara, Phewa Lake, Sarangkot or the World Peace Pagoda. If you walk into the Annapurna Conservation Area, for example to Dhampus, Australian Camp or Ghandruk, you need an ACAP permit and a TIMS card, and foreign walkers must be accompanied by a licensed guide. Check current status before you travel.

Can we combine Pokhara with Chitwan?

Yes, it is one of the most popular pairings in Nepal. The drive from Pokhara to Chitwan is about 150 km and 4 to 5 hours, mostly downhill along the Trishuli and Narayani valleys. We usually do Kathmandu, then Pokhara for two or three nights, then Chitwan for three, flying back to Kathmandu from Bharatpur.

Is Pokhara crowded?

Lakeside is busy from October to December and in March and April, especially in the evenings, and the Sarangkot main tower is crowded at dawn in peak weeks. The countryside around the valley is not. By staying on a ridge or farm outside town and timing visits for early mornings, our guests see the busy parts only when they choose to.