Rowing boat to Tal Barahi on Phewa Lake

Phewa Lake is about 4 km long and fed by streams from the hills to the west. The eastern shore is Lakeside, lined with cafes and boat stands; the southern shore is forest, rising steeply to the World Peace Pagoda. We hire a doonga, the traditional wooden rowing boat, with a boatman from a quieter jetty and set out around 4 pm, when the water usually calms. Life jackets are provided, and we bring cushions, a flask of tea and something light to eat.

Ten to fifteen minutes out sits Tal Barahi, a small two-tiered pagoda on an island, dedicated to Barahi, a form of the mother goddess who is believed to protect the lake. Hindu families come with flowers, sweets and sometimes a pair of pigeons to release, and on Saturdays the queue for the island can be long, so we avoid that day when we can. The visit takes about 20 minutes. Visitors of every faith are welcome in the courtyard; please remove shoes and leather before the inner shrine.

From the island we row west along the forested southern shore, past fishermen checking nets and kingfishers working the shallows. As the sun drops behind the hills, the reflection of Machapuchare can lie on the water if the evening is clear, which happens most often from October to December. Couples sometimes stay out until dusk and come back to a table set by the water. Families often swap to a paddle boat for the last half hour. We are always back on shore before dark.