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Nepalnational park

Bardia

Tigers, wild elephants and the Karnali river in Nepal's far west

Bardia National Park covers about 968 km² of sal forest, grassland and braided river in Nepal's far-west Terai, the largest lowland park in the country. It has tigers, rhinos, wild elephants and Gangetic dolphins, and a small share of Chitwan's visitors. We suggest four nights at Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge, flying via Nepalgunj.
Bardia
Photo: Prabina Karki · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Bardia lies in the far west of Nepal, about 95 km north-west of Nepalgunj and the Indian border, where the Karnali river leaves the Siwalik hills and spreads across the plains in wide, braided channels. The park covers about 968 km² of sal forest, riverine woodland and open grassland, the largest protected area in Nepal's lowlands. The Babai river valley runs through its northern half, and the Karnali and its Geruwa channel form the western edge. Everything here moves more slowly than in Chitwan, and that is the appeal.

Wildlife watching in Bardia is about patience. Bengal tigers have recovered strongly in the park over recent years, and Bardia is now known as one of the better places in Nepal to see them, especially from March to May. Greater one-horned rhinos, reintroduced from Chitwan, live in the Babai valley and the western grasslands. Herds of wild Asian elephants move through the forest, and the Karnali holds mugger crocodiles, gharials and a small number of Gangetic dolphins. Swamp deer graze the open phantas, the grasslands kept open by grazing and fire.

Because Bardia is a long way from Kathmandu, few visitors reach it, and you can drive or walk for hours without seeing another group. We suggest four nights to allow for the patient methods that work here: long jeep drives, tiger tracking on foot with experienced naturalists, waiting quietly by a river bend, and a day on the Karnali. Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge, in Tharu style on the park edge, is our base. Bardia pairs well with Chitwan on a dedicated wildlife journey.

Highlights

What Bardia does best

Tiger tracking on foot

Bardia is one of the few places in South Asia where you can look for tigers on foot, with experienced naturalists who read pugmarks, scrapes and alarm calls. Walks lead to river bends and watch points where we wait quietly, sometimes for hours, for a tiger to come down to drink.

The Karnali river

Nepal's longest river leaves the hills at Chisapani and spreads into wide channels along the park's western edge. A day on the water, drifting in a raft or sitting on a bank, can bring mugger crocodiles, gharials, otters, river birds and, with luck, a Gangetic dolphin surfacing to breathe.

Wild elephants

Herds of wild Asian elephants move through Bardia's forests and grasslands, along with a few large tuskers that roam across the border. Seeing them from a jeep or a watch point is one of the park's most distinctive experiences. Naturalists keep a careful distance, as wild elephants can be unpredictable.

Swamp deer in the phantas

In the southern grasslands of Bardia, large herds of swamp deer, or barasingha, graze the open phantas in the early morning and late afternoon. Spotted and hog deer and nilgai add variety, and grassland birds such as the Bengal florican are found here too.

Few visitors, quiet forest

Bardia receives a small share of the visitors that reach Chitwan. Jeep tracks are rarely busy, waterholes are quiet and the lodges are small. For guests who have done Chitwan, or who want a slower, wilder park, this is the reason to make the extra journey to the far west.

Tharu villages of the west

The far-west Terai is a Tharu heartland, with villages of mud-plastered houses, painted granaries and fish ponds around the park's edge. Many of Bardia's naturalists come from these villages, and a walk through them with a local guide adds context to everything you see inside the park.

Getting there

How to reach Bardia

Air

Flights from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj (KEP) take about 1 hour, with several departures daily, weather permitting. In December and January, morning fog in the Terai can delay flights. From Nepalgunj, our car or the lodge vehicle takes you to the park. Check current status before you travel, as schedules on this route change.

Road

Nepalgunj to Bardia is about 95 km and 2.5 hours by private car on the East-West Highway, turning off at Ambassa towards Thakurdwara and the park edge. The road is paved and flat. Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge lies on the edge of the park, a short drive from the park gate.

Road from Chitwan

Chitwan to Bardia is roughly 430 km and 9 to 10 hours on the East-West Highway, a long day through the Terai. Most guests fly instead: Bharatpur back to Kathmandu, then on to Nepalgunj. Those who want to drive can break the trip at Lumbini, about 4 to 5 hours from Chitwan, before continuing west.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge is our choice in Bardia: a Tharu-style lodge of mud-plastered cottages on the edge of the park, run with a strong focus on conservation and on experienced naturalists. It organises jeep and walking safaris and river trips. The lodge is comfortable rather than lavish, with good food, quiet rooms and wide views across the fields. Around Thakurdwara, near the park headquarters, there are several simpler eco-lodges for anyone exploring on a lighter budget.

From our planners

Five things to know

  1. Come from March to May if tigers are the priority, but prepare for heat of 35 °C or more by midday and plan rest in the afternoons.
  2. Wear neutral colours, soft-soled shoes and long trousers for walking safaris, and leave perfume and insect sprays with strong scents behind.
  3. Allow four nights: tracking tigers on foot depends on patience, and each extra day adds to your chances.
  4. Carry a scarf or buff against dust on jeep tracks in the dry months, and a light fleece for the early drives from December to February.
  5. Several lodges in Bardia close or limit operations in the monsoon, roughly June to September, so check current status before you travel.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Bardia

How do we get to Bardia National Park?

Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj in about 1 hour, then drive about 95 km and 2.5 hours to the park. Flights can be delayed by fog in December and January. From Chitwan, it is roughly 430 km and 9 to 10 hours by road, so most guests fly back through Kathmandu, or drive with an overnight in Lumbini.

When is the best time to visit Bardia?

October to May. October to February is pleasant, with cool mornings and warm days. March to May is hot, often 35 °C or more, but gives the best chances of seeing tigers, as grass is short and animals gather at water. From June to September, monsoon rain floods tracks and several lodges close or limit operations.

Is Bardia better than Chitwan for tigers?

Generally, yes. Bardia has a strong tiger population, far fewer visitors, and the option of tracking on foot with experienced naturalists, all of which improve your chances from March to May. Chitwan is easier to reach, with more lodge choice and better rhino and bird sightings. For a dedicated wildlife journey, many guests combine both.

How many nights should we spend in Bardia?

Four nights is ideal. Bardia's wildlife rewards patience, and a mix of full days tracking on foot, jeep safaris and a day on the Karnali needs time. Three nights is the minimum given the long journey from Kathmandu. Keen photographers and tiger seekers sometimes stay five or six nights from March to May.

Where should we stay in Bardia?

Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge, a Tharu-style lodge on the edge of the park, is our choice, with experienced naturalists, jeep and walking safaris and river trips. It is comfortable rather than lavish. Around Thakurdwara, near park headquarters, there are simpler eco-lodges. There are no large luxury hotels in or around the park.

What animals live in Bardia National Park?

Bardia holds Bengal tigers, greater one-horned rhinos, wild Asian elephants, leopards, sloth bears, swamp deer, spotted and hog deer, nilgai and wild boar. The Karnali has mugger crocodiles, gharials, otters and a small number of Gangetic dolphins. The bird list is long, including the Bengal florican, hornbills and many grassland and river species.

Are walking safaris allowed in Bardia?

Yes. Walking safaris with licensed, experienced naturalists are a key part of Bardia, and tracking tigers on foot is possible here in a way it is not in most Indian parks. Groups are small and follow strict safety rules. Children under about 12 usually join jeep safaris instead. Rules can change, so check current status before you travel.

Are there elephant rides in Bardia?

We do not book elephant rides or elephant-back safaris anywhere in Nepal. In Bardia, the best ways to see the park are jeep drives, walking safaris and river trips with experienced naturalists. Wild elephant herds live in the park, and seeing them free in the forest or crossing the Karnali is one of Bardia's best experiences.

Is Bardia hot in April and May?

Yes. Daytime temperatures in April and May often reach 35 to 40 °C, with high humidity building towards the monsoon. Mornings and evenings are more comfortable, so safaris run early and late, with a long rest at midday. Bring light, breathable clothing in neutral colours, a wide-brimmed hat, sun cream and electrolytes, and drink plenty of water.

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