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Tales of Luxury
Nepal8 nights · 9 daysBalanced

Lumbini and the Buddhist heart of Nepal

An eight-night journey through Buddhist Nepal. Three nights in Kathmandu cover Boudhanath, Swayambhunath and Patan's monasteries; two nights at Lumbini, the birthplace of Siddhartha Gautama, include the Maya Devi Temple and the ruins at Tilaurakot; two nights in Chitwan add rhino safaris before a last night in Kathmandu.

Lumbini and the Buddhist heart of Nepal
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Siddhartha Gautama was born at Lumbini, in the plains of southern Nepal, in the sixth or fifth century BCE. The site was confirmed in 1896 by the pillar the emperor Ashoka raised there around 249 BCE, and it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. Today the Maya Devi Temple shelters the marker stone of the birth, the Puskarini pond lies beside it, and a long monastic zone holds temples built by Buddhist nations from Japan to Germany.

We begin in Kathmandu, where Tibetan and Newar Buddhism are part of daily life: the evening kora at Boudhanath, the hilltop stupa of Swayambhunath, the Golden Temple in Patan and Kopan Monastery. Lumbini has no true luxury hotel, so we choose the best of its simple, quiet hotels and keep two nights there to see the site at dawn and dusk. Two nights at Meghauli Serai in Chitwan follow, and a final night at Dwarika's Hotel in Kathmandu closes the journey.

Highlights

Why this route works

  1. The Maya Devi Temple and Ashoka Pillar at Lumbini
  2. Evening kora and butter lamps at Boudhanath
  3. Kapilavastu palace ruins at Tilaurakot
  4. Golden Temple and Mahabouddha in Patan
  5. Rhinos on the Rapti from Meghauli Serai

Day by day

The journey

Day01

Arrive in Kathmandu

Overnight: Kathmandu≈ 3 km · 15 minMeals: Dinner

Our representative meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and drives you to Dwarika's Hotel in Battisputali, a few minutes away. After time to rest, your guide takes you to Boudhanath, the largest stupa in the Kathmandu Valley and the centre of the Tibetan community in Kathmandu. As the light fades, join the kora: a slow clockwise walk around the dome with monks, pilgrims and families turning prayer wheels. Butter lamps are lit in the small monasteries around the square. Dinner is at the hotel.

Day02

Swayambhunath and Buddhist Patan

Overnight: Kathmandu≈ 25 km · 1.5 h in totalMeals: Breakfast

We start early at Swayambhunath, the hilltop stupa whose painted eyes look out over the valley, climbing the long stone stairway as pilgrims circle the dome. Then we cross to Patan, the most Buddhist of the three royal cities. Your guide takes you to the Golden Temple, Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, a 12th-century Newar monastery courtyard; to Mahabouddha, a temple covered in terracotta Buddha images; and to the Patan Museum for its bronze collection. In the lanes, family workshops still cast Buddha statues by the lost-wax method.

Day03

Kopan Monastery and Pashupatinath

Overnight: Kathmandu≈ 25 km · 1.5 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

This morning we drive to Kopan Monastery on a hill north of Boudhanath, a Tibetan monastery that teaches Buddhism and meditation to foreigners. Depending on its schedule, you may join a short session or simply walk the gardens and watch young monks at study. After lunch we visit Kathmandu Durbar Square and the Kumari Ghar. In the evening we take you to Pashupatinath on the Bagmati, the most sacred Hindu temple in Nepal, to see the aarti, a reminder that Hindu and Buddhist practice share this valley. Dinner is at Krishnarpan.

Day04

Fly to Bhairahawa, on to Lumbini

Overnight: Lumbini≈ 22 km · 40 minMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

A 35-minute flight takes you south from Kathmandu to Gautam Buddha International Airport at Bhairahawa, on the plains at about 100 m. It is a different country down here: flat, warm and green with rice and sugarcane. We drive 22 km to Lumbini and check in at the best of its simple hotels, chosen for clean rooms and quiet rather than luxury, as none of Lumbini's hotels are luxury properties. In the late afternoon we walk to the Maya Devi Temple and the Puskarini pond as the day's pilgrims gather for evening chanting.

Day05

Lumbini at dawn and Tilaurakot

Overnight: Lumbini≈ 55 km · 2 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

We return to the Maya Devi Temple at opening, when monks chant beside the marker stone and the light is soft. Your guide explains the Ashoka Pillar of about 249 BCE and the excavated brick foundations around the temple. Then we cross the monastic zone by bicycle rickshaw or electric cart, visiting temples built by Buddhist nations, and walk to the eternal flame and the Lumbini World Peace Pagoda. In the afternoon we drive 27 km west to Tilaurakot, the ruins identified with Kapilavastu, where Siddhartha lived before leaving home.

Day06

Across the Terai to Chitwan

Overnight: Chitwan≈ 150 km · 4.5 hMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

We drive east through Butwal and along the East-West Highway, across rivers flowing out of the hills and past villages of the Terai, stopping for lunch. Meghauli Serai, a Taj Safari lodge, stands on the Rapti River on the western side of Chitwan National Park, with a pool facing the water. Chitwan was Nepal's first national park, founded in 1973, and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984. In the late afternoon we walk along the riverbank with a naturalist, where rhinos often come down to graze.

Day07

Jeep safari and dugout canoe

Overnight: ChitwanMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

An early jeep safari with a lodge naturalist into the grasslands and sal forest of the park. The greater one-horned rhinoceros is the animal you are most likely to see; spotted deer, wild boar, peacocks and langur monkeys are common; tigers, leopards and sloth bears are present but rarely seen. After lunch and a rest, a dugout canoe drifts down the Rapti past gharial and mugger crocodiles on the sandbanks. The evening is quiet by the river. We do not book elephant rides.

Day08

Fly back to Kathmandu

Overnight: Kathmandu≈ 40 km · 1–1.5 h to BharatpurMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

A last early walk or birding session in the park, then we drive to Bharatpur Airport for the 25-minute flight to Kathmandu. Back at Dwarika's Hotel by mid-afternoon, you have time for a final visit. We suggest a quiet hour at Boudhanath to buy a singing bowl, thangka or prayer flags from the shops around the square, or a walk through the Garden of Dreams in Thamel. Tonight is a farewell dinner at the hotel.

Day09

Depart from Kathmandu

Overnight: Departure≈ 3 km · 15 minMeals: Breakfast

A free morning before your flight. If you have time, your guide can take you to Bhaktapur, 13 km east, for its Durbar Square and the five-tiered Nyatapola temple, or to Changu Narayan, the oldest temple in the valley. We collect you from Dwarika's Hotel about three hours before your international departure and drive you to Tribhuvan International Airport, a few minutes away. Our team in Kathmandu is on call until your plane leaves.

Map of Kathmandu, Lumbini, Chitwan, KathmanduIndiaChinaNepalKathmandu1KathmanduLumbini2LumbiniChitwan3ChitwanKathmandu4Kathmandu100 kmN
  1. 1Kathmandu 3 nights
  2. 2Lumbini 2 nights
  3. 3Chitwan 2 nights
  4. 4Kathmandu 1 night
Drawn by Tales of Luxury from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Included

  • Eight nights: Dwarika's Hotel, the best simple hotel in Lumbini and Meghauli Serai
  • Breakfast daily, dinners as listed and all meals in Chitwan
  • Kathmandu to Bhairahawa and Bharatpur to Kathmandu flights
  • Private car, driver and licensed guide throughout, including a specialist guide at Lumbini
  • Monument, site and Chitwan National Park fees
  • Lodge naturalists for safaris in Chitwan

Not included

  • International flights and visa fees
  • Lunches outside Chitwan, drinks and meals not listed
  • Donations at monasteries and temples
  • Travel insurance, which we require
  • Tips for guides, naturalists, drivers and lodge staff

Good to know

  1. Lumbini has no true luxury hotel; rooms are simple and the reason to stay is the site
  2. Lumbini is very hot from April to June, often above 38 °C, and foggy on winter mornings in December and January
  3. Buddha Jayanti, the Buddha's birthday, falls on the full moon of April or May; check current status before you travel
  4. Remove shoes at temples and walk clockwise around stupas and the Maya Devi Temple
  5. Chitwan park fees are about NPR 2,000 per day for foreigners; check current status before you travel
  6. We do not book elephant rides

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Is Lumbini really the birthplace of the Buddha?

Yes, it is widely accepted as the birthplace of Siddhartha Gautama. The key evidence is the pillar raised by the Mauryan emperor Ashoka around 249 BCE, whose inscription records his visit to the place where the Buddha was born. Excavations beneath the Maya Devi Temple have found older structures. Lumbini became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

Where do we stay in Lumbini?

Lumbini has no true luxury hotel, and we say so plainly. We book the best of its simple hotels, chosen for clean rooms, quiet and good service, close to the sacred garden. The reason to stay two nights is to see the Maya Devi Temple at dawn and dusk, when pilgrims are chanting and day visitors have gone, rather than the hotel itself.

When is the best time to visit Lumbini?

February and March and October and November are the most comfortable, with warm days and clear mornings. April to June is very hot, often above 38 °C. December and January bring dense fog on many mornings until about 10 am, which can delay flights. Buddha Jayanti, the Buddha's birthday, draws large crowds on the full moon of April or May.

How do we get to Lumbini from Kathmandu?

Fly. The flight from Kathmandu to Gautam Buddha International Airport at Bhairahawa takes about 35 minutes, and Lumbini is 22 km from the airport, about 40 minutes by car. The road from Kathmandu is about 280 km and takes eight hours or more, so we do not recommend it. Flight schedules change, so check current status before you travel.

What is Tilaurakot and is it worth visiting?

Tilaurakot is the archaeological site identified with Kapilavastu, the capital where Siddhartha grew up as a prince before leaving home. It lies about 27 km west of Lumbini, and you see the brick foundations of the palace complex, its gates and moat among mango trees. It is quiet, rarely visited and, for anyone following the Buddha's life, worth the half day.

Can we meditate or join a teaching on this journey?

Yes, in two places. Kopan Monastery in Kathmandu runs meditation courses for foreigners on set dates and sometimes welcomes visitors to shorter sessions. In Lumbini, several monasteries in the monastic zone allow quiet sitting, and some run courses. Schedules vary, so tell us your interest when booking and we will check current status before you travel.

Why add Chitwan to a Buddhist journey?

Because it is on the way and it balances the trip. Chitwan lies between Lumbini and Kathmandu, about four and a half hours' drive from Lumbini, and Bharatpur Airport has a short flight back to Kathmandu. Two nights at Meghauli Serai give you jeep and canoe safaris among rhinos and crocodiles, a restful change after several days of temples.

What should I wear at Buddhist sites?

Wear clothes that cover shoulders and knees, and shoes you can remove quickly, since you will take them off at the Maya Devi Temple and in monasteries. Walk clockwise around stupas, temples and prayer wheels. Do not point your feet at altars or touch monks. Lumbini is warm for much of the year, so loose cotton and a hat are best.

Is Buddha Jayanti a good time to visit Lumbini?

It is moving but crowded. Buddha Jayanti, on the full moon of Baisakh in April or May, draws pilgrims from across Asia to Lumbini for prayers and processions, and hotels fill months ahead. It is also hot. If you want the festival, we book early and plan visits for dawn and dusk. Dates move each year, so check current status before you travel.

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