Bhaktapur
Brick squares, potters and the five-tiered Nyatapola temple
Bhaktapur was the capital of the whole Kathmandu Valley under the early Malla kings, and later the seat of one of its three rival kingdoms. Of the three royal cities, it has kept its old character most completely. Traffic is limited in the centre, most houses are still built of brick and timber, and many families still farm, make pottery or carve wood. The city lies at 1,401 m, about 13 km east of Kathmandu, and its Durbar Square is one of the valley's seven World Heritage monument zones.
The city is laid out around a chain of squares. Durbar Square holds the 55-Window Palace and the gilded Golden Gate. A short walk away, Taumadhi Square is dominated by Nyatapola, a five-tiered temple of 1702 often called the tallest pagoda in Nepal. Further east, Dattatreya Square has old priests' houses and the woodcarving workshops known for the peacock window. To the south, Pottery Square is full of wheels and drying pots. Each square has its own rhythm, and walking between them is part of the pleasure.
Foreign visitors pay a municipal entry fee at the city gates, which supports conservation; check current status before you travel. There is no true luxury hotel in Bhaktapur, so we visit from Kathmandu, 30 to 60 minutes away, or on the way to or from Dhulikhel, about 17 km further east. A full day is ideal. Bisket Jatra, the Nepali New Year festival in April, fills the squares with chariot pulls and crowds, and we plan around it for guests who want to see it.
Highlights
What Bhaktapur does best
The royal square holds the 55-Window Palace, its carved windows overlooking a wide brick courtyard, and the Golden Gate, a gilded doorway leading to the Taleju temple courtyards. Several temples fell in 2015 and have since been rebuilt. Arrive by 8.30 am for quiet squares and soft light.
Built in 1702, Nyatapola rises five tiers above Taumadhi Square on a stepped plinth guarded by pairs of stone figures, from wrestlers to elephants, lions, griffins and goddesses. It came through the earthquakes of 1934 and 2015 with limited damage. Its steps are a good place to sit and watch the square at dusk.
Potters throw pots on wheels in the open, and rows of clay pots dry in the sun before firing in kilns covered with straw and ash. We can arrange a short session at the wheel with a potter family. Mornings in the dry season see the most work going on outside.
The oldest part of the city, with the Dattatreya temple, old priests' houses and the National Woodworking Museum. In a lane nearby is the peacock window, a celebrated piece of Newar carving. Woodcarvers still work in the surrounding shops, and small pieces make good presents.
Bhaktapur's famous yoghurt is set in unglazed clay pots, which draw off moisture and give it a thick, creamy texture. Shops around the squares sell it in small clay bowls. We stop for one in the afternoon, which is a local habit as much as a snack.
About 6 km north on a ridge, Changu Narayan is often described as the oldest temple in the valley, with stone inscriptions and sculpture from the 5th century onwards. It is a World Heritage monument zone, quiet and set among village houses, and pairs well with a Bhaktapur day.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Bhaktapur
Fly into Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, about 10 km from Bhaktapur, or 30 to 45 minutes by car. Bhaktapur lies on the road east towards Dhulikhel, so it is easy to visit on the way to or from a Dhulikhel stay without going back into Kathmandu.
From central Kathmandu, Bhaktapur is about 13 km east, 30 to 60 minutes by private car depending on traffic. From Dhulikhel it is about 17 km and 30 to 45 minutes along the Araniko Highway. Vehicles are restricted in the old centre, so our driver drops you at a gate and meets you later.
The old city is best explored on foot. Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square, Pottery Square and Dattatreya Square lie within about 1 km of each other, linked by brick lanes. Wear comfortable shoes, as surfaces are uneven, and allow time to sit in the squares.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
There is no true luxury hotel in Bhaktapur. A handful of simple guesthouses in restored brick houses sit on or near the squares, and they suit travellers who want to see the city at dawn and after dark, but rooms are small and service basic. We usually base guests at Dwarika's Hotel in Kathmandu, about 40 minutes away, or at Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel, about 40 minutes to the east, and visit Bhaktapur as a full day. For an early start in the squares, we leave the hotel at about 7 am.
From our planners
Five things to know
- Keep your municipal entry ticket with you all day, as staff at other gates may ask to see it; check current status before you travel.
- Arrive by 8.30 am, before day groups from Kathmandu, and stay into the late afternoon when the squares turn golden and quieter.
- Buy juju dhau from a shop with a steady local queue, and eat it from the clay bowl with the spoon provided.
- Ask before photographing potters and woodcarvers at work, and consider buying a small piece if you stay a while.
- During Bisket Jatra in April, the chariot pulls are lively and crowded, so we watch from a balcony rather than the street.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Bhaktapur
How far is Bhaktapur from Kathmandu?
Bhaktapur is about 13 km east of central Kathmandu, which takes 30 to 60 minutes by private car depending on traffic. From Tribhuvan International Airport it is about 10 km. It lies on the road to Dhulikhel, so many guests visit on the way there or back, and it makes an easy full-day trip from any Kathmandu hotel.
Is Bhaktapur worth visiting?
Yes. Of the valley's three old royal cities, Bhaktapur has kept its traditional brick and timber character most completely, with limited traffic in the centre and working trades such as pottery and woodcarving. Its squares, the Nyatapola temple and its king curd make it one of the most rewarding days in Nepal for first-time visitors and photographers alike.
How much time should I spend in Bhaktapur?
A full day suits most travellers: the squares in the morning, Pottery Square and lunch, then Taumadhi Square in the late afternoon. Half a day covers the main squares in a rush. Add Changu Narayan, 6 km north, for a second half-day. A night in a simple guesthouse lets you see the squares at dawn and after dark.
Are there luxury hotels in Bhaktapur?
No, Bhaktapur has no true luxury hotel. There are a few simple guesthouses in restored brick houses near the squares, with small rooms and basic service. We base guests at Dwarika's Hotel in Kathmandu, about 40 minutes away, or at Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel, about 40 minutes to the east, and visit Bhaktapur as a full day.
Is there an entry fee to Bhaktapur?
Yes. Foreign visitors pay a municipal fee to enter the heritage area, with lower rates for SAARC nationals, and the money goes towards conserving the old city. It is collected at gates on the main approaches, and the ticket may be checked at other points during the day. Rates change, so check current status before you travel.
When is Bisket Jatra in Bhaktapur?
Bisket Jatra marks the Nepali New Year and is held in mid-April over about nine days. Huge chariots of Bhairab and Bhadrakali are pulled through the streets by competing teams from the upper and lower town, and a tall wooden pole is raised and then pulled down at the New Year. Crowds are dense. Check current status before you travel for exact dates.
What is Bhaktapur famous for?
Bhaktapur is famous for its Durbar Square, the five-tiered Nyatapola temple of 1702, its pottery, its woodcarving and its juju dhau, or king curd. It is the best preserved of the Kathmandu Valley's royal cities and a World Heritage monument zone. It is also known for its festivals, above all Bisket Jatra at the Nepali New Year in April.
Was Bhaktapur damaged in the 2015 earthquake?
Yes. Several temples in Durbar Square collapsed and many old houses were damaged, though Nyatapola survived with limited harm. Much has since been rebuilt using traditional brick, timber and carving, and the city is fully worth visiting, though some buildings may still be under repair. We check the state of the work before your visit; check current status before you travel.
Can I combine Bhaktapur with Nagarkot or Dhulikhel?
Yes, and we often do. Bhaktapur lies on the road east to both. Nagarkot, at 2,175 m, is about 20 km away and known for its Himalayan view at sunrise. Dhulikhel is about 17 km east and home to Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel. Seeing Bhaktapur on the way to either saves a separate return drive from Kathmandu.
Nearby
Pair it with
Stupas, temples and royal squares in Nepal's capital valley
Newar temples, a palace museum and bronze casters across the river
A Himalayan view and a wellness retreat an hour from Kathmandu
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