Thekkady (Periyar)
Periyar's forests, a dammed lake and cardamom hills
Periyar is a forest best seen on foot and by water. In 1895 the British built the Mullaperiyar dam to send river water east to the dry plains of Tamil Nadu, and the reservoir flooded the valleys, leaving dead tree trunks standing in the water and a long, branching lake winding into the hills. The forest around it became a game sanctuary in 1934, a tiger reserve in 1978 and is now one of the best protected in southern India.
Unlike the tiger parks of central India, there are no jeep safaris here. Visitors explore with forest guards, many of them former poachers and forest dwellers employed through community programmes, on walks, treks and full-day bamboo rafting trips. Tigers are present but very rarely seen. What you can expect are elephants, gaur, sambar, wild boar, otters, Nilgiri langur and hornbills, and the feeling of being deep in a wet tropical forest.
The small town of Kumily, on the border with Tamil Nadu, sits just outside the reserve, surrounded by spice gardens where cardamom, pepper, cloves, nutmeg and coffee grow under shade trees. The region produces most of India's cardamom. We base guests at CGH Earth's Spice Village, built in the style of tribal huts with thatched roofs, and spend the days split between the forest and the plantations.
Highlights
What Thekkady (Periyar) does best
A forest guard leads a small group on a trek through the reserve and then across Periyar Lake on rafts of lashed bamboo, with stops to watch elephants and gaur at the shore. It is the most rewarding way to see the reserve and slots are limited.
The first boat of the day on the lake passes drowned trees, cormorants and darters, with elephants, sambar and gaur often seen grazing at the water's edge. In the dry months of February to May, animals come down to drink more often.
Three-hour walks with trained forest guards follow trails through evergreen and moist deciduous forest. You learn to read tracks and calls, and see giant squirrels, langurs and hornbills. Leech socks are provided in wet months.
Kumily is surrounded by plantations where cardamom grows in the shade of tall forest trees. A planter shows you how the pods are picked by hand, cured and graded, and how pepper vines climb their host trees.
Small theatres in Kumily stage nightly demonstrations of Kalaripayattu, Kerala's martial art, with high kicks, sword and shield work and leaps through rings of fire. It is a good hour before dinner, especially for families.
The Western Ghats end abruptly at Kumily. A short drive to viewpoints on the edge gives views down to the plains and vineyards of Cumbum valley in Tamil Nadu, a reminder of how narrow Kerala is.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Thekkady (Periyar)
Madurai Airport (IXM) in Tamil Nadu is the closest, about 140 km and 3.5–4 h by car. Cochin International Airport (COK) is about 160 km and 4.5 h, and is better connected for most guests.
There is no railway to Thekkady. Kottayam station, about 115 km and 3 h by car, is on the main coastal line. Madurai Junction is about 140 km away.
Munnar is ≈ 90 km · 3 h through cardamom country, Kumarakom ≈ 125 km · 3.5–4 h via Kottayam, and Kochi ≈ 165 km · 4.5–5 h. The roads are winding but well surfaced. Drives after dark are slower and we avoid them.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
Most hotels are in Thekkady and the neighbouring town of Kumily, just outside the reserve gate. Spice Village, run by CGH Earth, is our first choice: thatched cottages among spice gardens, a restaurant with produce from its own gardens and a resident naturalist who leads walks. Its 'no plastic' approach and slow pace suit the forest. We also use a small number of plantation homestays in the hills around Vandanmedu for guests who want to be among the cardamom.
A CGH Earth resort of thatched cottages among spice gardens on the edge of the Periyar Tiger Reserve, built in the style of the area's tribal …
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Five things to know
- Book bamboo rafting and nature walks as early as possible; slots are run by the forest department and limited daily.
- Wear long trousers, closed shoes and leech socks on forest walks, especially from June to November.
- Take the first boat on Periyar Lake, around 7.30 am, for the calmest water and most animals.
- Expect elephants, gaur and birds rather than tigers; tiger sightings in Periyar are rare.
- Buy cardamom and pepper from a plantation shop and ask for the harvest date.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Thekkady (Periyar)
How many days do I need in Thekkady?
Two nights is right for most travellers. That gives one full day for bamboo rafting or a long walk in the Periyar Tiger Reserve, plus a morning for the lake cruise or a nature walk and an afternoon in a spice plantation. Thekkady is about 3 hours from Munnar and 3.5 to 4 hours from Kumarakom.
Is there a jeep safari in Periyar?
Not inside the core of the reserve. Periyar is explored on foot with forest guards, on bamboo rafts and on lake cruises. Some operators offer jeep drives outside the reserve to Gavi or to estates, but these are not wildlife safaris in the central Indian sense. Check current status before you travel, as programmes change.
Can you see tigers in Periyar?
Rarely. The reserve has a healthy tiger population, but the dense forest and the absence of jeep safaris mean few visitors see one. Elephants, gaur, sambar, wild boar, otters and many birds are far more likely. For tigers, parks such as Kanha, Bandhavgarh or Ranthambore are better.
What is the best season for Periyar?
October to April is best. From February to May the forest dries out and animals gather at the lake, which improves sightings from the boats and rafts, although afternoons are warm. The monsoon from June to September brings leeches, heavy rain and occasional cancellations of activities.
Where should I stay in Thekkady?
Spice Village, run by CGH Earth, is our first choice, with thatched cottages in spice gardens a short drive from the reserve gate. It has a naturalist on staff and its own walks. A handful of plantation homestays in the hills also suit guests who want more space and privacy.
How far is Thekkady from Munnar?
About 90 km, which takes roughly 3 hours by car on a winding road through the Cardamom Hills via Poopara and Rajakkad or Nedumkandam. The drive is scenic, with tea and cardamom estates and viewpoints. We stop at a spice farm or a viewpoint to break the journey.
Are there leeches in Periyar?
Yes, especially from June to November when the forest is wet. They are harmless but unpleasant. Forest guards provide leech socks for walks and rafting, and we suggest long trousers tucked in. In the dry months from January to April, leeches are rare.
Is Thekkady good for families?
Yes. Children enjoy the boat cruise, the spice gardens, the Kalaripayattu show and short nature walks. Older children who walk well can join bamboo rafting. Spice Village has family cottages and a pool. Keep the days simple, with one forest activity in the morning and a quiet afternoon.
Can I visit Periyar on a day trip?
Not comfortably. Kochi is 4.5 to 5 hours away and Munnar 3 hours, so a day trip leaves little time in the reserve, and the best activities start at 7.30 to 8 am. Stay at least one night, and preferably two, to do a full forest activity.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Thekkady (Periyar)
Nearby
Pair it with
Tea estates, cool mornings and the Nilgiri tahr
Lake resorts and bird life on the shore of Vembanad
Five centuries of spice traders on one small peninsula
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin