Kuttanad paddy fields and village churches
Kuttanad is unusual: a delta of rice fields reclaimed from Vembanad, much of it one to two metres below the level of the surrounding water, kept dry by earth bunds and pumps. Farming here has been recognised by the Food and Agriculture Organisation as a globally important agricultural heritage system. A small motor boat, faster and more flexible than a houseboat, lets us cover more of it in a morning.
We meet a farmer on the bund who explains how the fields are drained before planting, how the crop depends on the timing of monsoon floods and saltwater barriers, and how ducks are herded through the harvested fields to feed on fallen grain. Depending on the season, you see sowing, transplanting or harvest, with flocks of egrets following the workers.
The route continues to Champakulam on the Pamba river, where St. Mary's Forane Church stands on one of Kerala's oldest Christian sites, with a painted interior and a tall stone cross outside. We stop at a family home to see how life works on the water, then return to Alappuzha by lunchtime. Church visiting hours vary, so check current status before you travel.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Why is Kuttanad below sea level?
Over the past two centuries, farmers reclaimed shallow parts of Vembanad Lake by building earth walls and pumping out the water, creating fields lower than the surrounding canals. Much of Kuttanad lies one to two metres below sea level. A barrage at Thanneermukkom keeps seawater out during the dry months.
When is the rice harvest in Kuttanad?
The main crop is usually harvested from about February to April, with a second crop in some areas around August to October. Timing varies by field and year. Transplanting and early growth make the fields bright green from November to January, the best time for photographs.
Can we visit Kuttanad by road?
Partly. Roads now reach many villages, but the best of Kuttanad is seen from the water, where you look down on the fields and reach churches and homes built facing the canals. A small motor boat is faster than a houseboat and can enter narrower channels.
Also in Alappuzha (Alleppey)
More hours to plan around
