Kannur
Theyyam country, looms and the old Malabar forts
North Malabar feels very different from the backwaters and tea hills of southern Kerala. The coast is lined with red laterite cliffs and long beaches, the villages are set among cashew and coconut, and the food draws on centuries of Arab trade. Kannur, the main town, was an important port for the Kolathiri rajas, the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British, and the seat of the Arakkal family, Kerala's only Muslim royal line.
Most travellers come for Theyyam. In hundreds of kavus, small sacred groves and family shrines, performers from hereditary communities spend hours being made up and costumed, then enter a trance in which they are believed to become the deity. Through the night, they dance, speak to devotees, bless and sometimes walk through fire. The season runs roughly from the Malayalam month of Thulam in late October to Edavam in May or June, with the busiest weeks from December to March.
Between performances, there is plenty to fill the days: St. Angelo Fort built by the Portuguese in 1505, the Arakkal palace museum, the long drive-in beach at Muzhappilangad, the Muthappan temple at Parassinikadavu where Theyyam is performed every day, the handloom cooperatives for which Kannur is known, and Thalassery's biryani. Luxury stays are few, so we use the best homestays near the coast or base guests at Taj Bekal, about 85 km north.
Highlights
What Kannur does best
We take you to a village kavu where Theyyam is performed that night, arriving for the make-up and staying for the first performances. A guide explains the deity, the community and the ritual, and makes sure you watch respectfully.
At the Parassinikadavu Muthappan temple on the Valapattanam river, the Muthappan Theyyam is performed every morning and evening throughout the year. Devotees of all faiths are welcome, and tea and lentils are served to all.
Built by the first Portuguese viceroy of India, Francisco de Almeida, in 1505, the triangular laterite fort stands on a headland above Mappila Bay, with views of fishing harbour and sea. The Dutch and British later held it.
The Arakkal family were Kerala's only Muslim royal dynasty, ruling Kannur and the Lakshadweep islands. Part of their palace, Arakkal Kettu, is a museum with furniture, weapons and documents of the family.
Kannur has a long tradition of handloom weaving, organised in cooperatives that produce cotton fabrics, bedlinen and furnishing for India and export. Visit a working unit to see the looms.
A long, firm beach south of Kannur where cars can drive on the sand at low tide. Early morning, before the visitors arrive, it is empty, with Dharmadam island just offshore.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Kannur
Kannur International Airport (CNN) at Mattannur, about 30 km away, has flights to several Indian cities and the Gulf. Calicut International Airport (CCJ) is about 115 km and 3 h south. Mangaluru (IXE) is about 150 km and 3.5 h north.
Kannur station is on the main coastal line, with fast trains to Kozhikode in about 1.5 h, Ernakulam in about 5–6 h and Mangaluru in about 2.5 h.
Bekal is ≈ 85 km · 2 h north, Wayanad (Mananthavady) ≈ 80 km · 2.5–3 h, Kozhikode ≈ 90 km · 2.5 h and Thrissur ≈ 210 km · 5 h. The coastal highway is under heavy upgrading in places, so check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
Kannur has no large luxury resort. We use a small number of well-run heritage homestays and beach houses along the coast at Thottada and near Thalassery, which offer good home cooking, local knowledge and help finding the night's Theyyam. For full luxury service, we base guests at Taj Bekal Resort & Spa, about 85 km north, and drive to performances in Kannur and Kasaragod districts with a guide.
From our planners
Five things to know
- Theyyam schedules are announced locally and change; trust your guide's information on the day.
- Dress modestly for Theyyam: long sleeves and trousers or a long skirt, and remove shoes near the shrine.
- Never use flash or stand in the performers' path; ask your guide where to stand.
- Bring a small torch and a cushion or folding stool for long night performances.
- Visit Parassinikadavu at the early morning or evening Muthappan Theyyam if you cannot attend a village performance.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Kannur
What is the best time to see Theyyam?
The Theyyam season runs from about late October to May, following the Malayalam calendar, with the busiest period from December to March, when many shrines hold their festivals. Performances happen almost every night somewhere in Kannur and Kasaragod districts during this time. Check current status before you travel, as dates are set locally.
Can I see Theyyam outside the season?
Yes, at one place. The Parassinikadavu Muthappan temple near Kannur holds the Muthappan Theyyam every morning and evening throughout the year, including during the monsoon. It is a single Theyyam form and less elaborate than village festivals, but it is authentic and welcoming to all.
How many days should I spend in Kannur?
Three nights is ideal for Theyyam: it gives two or three chances to see performances, plus days for St. Angelo Fort, Parassinikadavu, a handloom unit and Thalassery. Combine Kannur with Bekal to the north and Wayanad inland for a full North Malabar journey.
Are there luxury hotels in Kannur?
Kannur has no large luxury resort. We use well-run heritage homestays and beach houses on the coast for guests who value local knowledge and home cooking. For full luxury service, we base guests at Taj Bekal Resort & Spa, about 85 km north, and drive to Theyyam with a guide.
How do I get to Kannur?
Fly to Kannur International Airport at Mattannur, about 30 km away, or to Calicut International Airport, about 115 km south. Kannur station is on the main coastal railway, with fast trains from Kozhikode, Mangaluru and Ernakulam. We meet you at the airport or station.
What should I wear to a Theyyam?
Modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees: a long-sleeved shirt and trousers, or a long skirt or salwar. Light cotton is best, as nights are warm. Wear sandals you can remove easily near the shrine. A light shawl is useful in the small hours.
Is Theyyam suitable for photography?
Yes, with care. Photography is generally allowed at Theyyam, but never use flash, never block the performer or devotees and keep a respectful distance. Some shrines restrict photography in certain areas. Ask your guide before you photograph and follow the instructions of the shrine committee.
What is Kannur famous for?
Theyyam, the ritual performance of North Malabar; handloom weaving; St. Angelo Fort; the Arakkal royal family; Thalassery's biryani and snacks; and long, quiet beaches such as Muzhappilangad. It is also known as a centre of Kalaripayattu in its northern form.
Is Kannur safe for travellers?
Yes. Kannur is a calm, welcoming town and violent crime against visitors is very rare. Theyyam nights are crowded but friendly. The main precautions are practical: night driving on rural roads, which we handle with experienced drivers, and following local customs at shrines.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Kannur
Nearby
Pair it with
A sea fort, quiet backwaters and Kerala's far north
Coffee, pepper and elephant forest on the high plateau
Kerala's cultural capital, temples and the great Pooram
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