Periyar Tiger Reserve: how to see the forest

Visitors used to the tiger parks of central India, with open jeeps on forest roads, often arrive expecting the same. Periyar works differently. There are no jeep safaris in the core of the reserve. Instead, you explore on foot with forest guards, on bamboo rafts across the lake, or on boats from the Thekkady landing. The forest is dense, so animals are seen at the water's edge and in clearings rather than on open plains.

This shapes the experience. You move slowly and quietly, and much of the pleasure lies in the forest itself: the calls of hornbills and langurs, the scent after rain, fresh elephant tracks on the trail. The guards, many from communities who once depended on the forest, sometimes including former poachers, are skilled trackers and good company. They were brought into conservation through Periyar's eco-development programme, which has been studied as a model in India.

Most activities are run by the reserve's eco-development committees or the forest department, with limited places each day. The programmes, timings and rules change, so check current status before you travel. The table summarises the main options we book for guests.

If you do one thing in Periyar, make it bamboo rafting. A small group meets at about 8 am with two or three guards and walks into the forest, then crosses arms of the lake on rafts of lashed bamboo. The day alternates between trekking and long, quiet spells on the water, watching the shores. Elephants often come down to drink and bathe, gaur graze on the banks, and otters fish in the shallows. Lunch is a simple packed meal in the forest, and you return at about 5 pm.

Nature walks are shorter, about three hours, on trails through mixed forest with a trained guide. They are excellent for birds, butterflies, giant squirrels and langurs, and for learning to read the forest. Border hiking is a longer, harder trek along the ridges towards the Tamil Nadu border, with wide views. The jungle patrol walks the forest edge at night with guards, listening for animals in the dark.

All walks require long trousers, closed shoes and long sleeves, and leech socks are provided in wet months. Children under about 12 may not be allowed on longer programmes; ask us about current rules.

Elephants are the signature animal of Periyar, and herds are seen regularly at the lake. Gaur, India's huge wild cattle, sambar deer, barking deer, wild boar, Nilgiri langurs, bonnet macaques, Malabar giant squirrels and smooth-coated otters are also common. Tigers, leopards and dholes are present but rarely seen. The endangered lion-tailed macaque lives in parts of the reserve but is seldom encountered by visitors.

Birdlife is rich, with great and Malabar grey hornbills, Malabar trogons, darters, cormorants, kingfishers, fish eagles and many forest species. Reptiles include monitor lizards and, occasionally, king cobras. The flowering trees and orchids are at their best after the monsoon.

• Very likely: elephants, gaur, sambar, wild boar, langurs, giant squirrels, otters, hornbills
• Possible: barking deer, monitor lizards, fish eagles
• Rare: tiger, leopard, dhole, lion-tailed macaque

October to April is the best time to visit. From October to January, the forest is green and the weather comfortable, with some showers in October and November. From February to May, the forest dries out and animals gather at the lake to drink, which improves sightings from the boats and rafts, although afternoons can be warm. The monsoon months of June to September bring heavy rain, leeches and occasional suspension of activities.

Mornings are always the best time. The first boat of the day, at about 7.30 am, has the calmest water and most animal activity, and walks and rafting start early for the same reason.

Temperatures at Thekkady, at about 900 m, are milder than on the coast: around 15–18 °C at night and 28–30 °C by day in winter. Bring a light layer for early boat departures, when the air over the lake can feel cool. In the dry months, dust and haze can reduce visibility over the hills by midday, another reason to go out early. Weekends and Indian holidays bring more visitors to the boat landing, so we plan your main activity on a weekday where possible.

Periyar is one of the best examples in India of conservation that works with local people rather than against them. In the 1990s, the reserve faced pressure from poaching, sandalwood smuggling and the collection of firewood. Under its eco-development programme, community groups were formed in the villages around the reserve, and many people who had relied on the forest, including some former poachers and smugglers, were employed as guides, guards and staff for tourism activities. Income from visitors is shared through these committees.

As a visitor, you are part of this model. Booking activities through the reserve's official programmes, rather than through informal operators, supports the communities who protect the forest. On walks, keep noise to a minimum, do not leave the trail, never feed animals and carry all litter out with you. Plastic is restricted inside the reserve.

Respect the guards' instructions around elephants and gaur, which can be dangerous if approached. Guards keep a safe distance and change the route when animals are near. Elephant rides and close animal encounters offered by private camps outside the reserve are not part of our journeys.

Places on bamboo rafting, border hiking and the tiger trail are few, and they sell out in peak season. Booking methods have changed over the years between counter sales and online systems. We book as soon as your dates are confirmed and keep a backup plan in case an activity is cancelled for weather or operational reasons.

Stay at least two nights, and three if you want both rafting and a long walk. Spice Village, run by CGH Earth, is our first choice, with thatched cottages in spice gardens a few minutes from the reserve gate and a resident naturalist. Thekkady combines naturally with Munnar, about three hours north, and with the backwaters at Kumarakom, about 3.5 to 4 hours west. Madurai airport is about 140 km away if you are travelling on to Tamil Nadu.