Sumur, Samstanling and Panamik springs

Sumur sits on the west bank of the Nubra river, among stone-walled fields of barley and peas, with apricot, poplar and willow trees around the houses. Above the village is Samstanling monastery, founded in the 1840s, with a wide courtyard and a painted assembly hall. In the quiet of mid-morning you may be the only visitors, and the resident monks are usually happy to show you round. Visit early. It is peaceful.

From Sumur the road runs north through Tegar and Kyagar to Panamik, about 30 km away. Panamik was a resting place on the caravan route to the Karakoram, and its sulphur hot springs were used by traders before the climb to the pass. Today there are simple bathing rooms; the water is hot and smells strongly of sulphur. Bring a towel if you want to bathe. Allow time to wander.

The real pleasure of Panamik is a walk through the old village, with its mud-brick houses and irrigation channels. Beyond Panamik the road continues towards the Siachen base area, but visitors are not allowed far. We return to Sumur for lunch, and the afternoon is free for the dunes or a rest. Carry water and sun protection. The afternoon can be spent resting in the garden at Lchang Nang before the dunes.