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Tales of Luxury
Ladakh7 nights · 8 daysBalanced

Leh, Nubra and Pangong

The classic first Ladakh journey in seven nights: three in Leh to acclimatise and see Thiksey and Hemis, two in Nubra over Khardung La, one on the shore of Pangong Tso, and a last night in Leh. Two high passes, the Hunder dunes and the great blue lake.

Leh, Nubra and Pangong
Photo: Anirvan Shukla · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

If you have a week and this is your first visit, this is the journey we recommend. It combines the culture of the Indus valley with the two great road trips out of Leh: north over Khardung La to the sand dunes and monasteries of Nubra, and east along the Shyok to Pangong, returning over Chang La. The route is a loop, so you never drive the same road twice.

The pace is balanced. Three nights in Leh give proper time to adjust before the passes, two nights in Nubra allow a full day there, and one night at Pangong catches the lake at sunset and dawn. We use The Grand Dragon in Leh and Lchang Nang in Nubra, and the best available lake-facing camp at Pangong. A final night in Leh guards against delays. Permits are arranged for you.

Highlights

Why this route works

  1. Thiksey, Shey and Hemis while you acclimatise in Leh
  2. Khardung La at 5,359 m and the descent into Nubra
  3. Diskit's Maitreya and the dunes of Hunder
  4. The wild Shyok road from Nubra to Pangong
  5. Sunset and dawn on Pangong Tso

Day by day

The journey

Day01

Arrive in Leh and rest

Overnight: Leh≈ 4 km · 15 minMeals: Lunch, Dinner

Your guide meets you at Leh airport and drives you to The Grand Dragon Ladakh. The rest of the day is for doing very little: lunch, a long rest, plenty of water and an early dinner. Your guide will explain the plan, the permits, and how to recognise and manage the symptoms of altitude. If you feel well by late afternoon, sit in the garden and watch the light change on the Stok range.

Day02

Old town and Shey

Overnight: Leh≈ 30 km · 1 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

A slow morning walk through Leh's old town with your guide, up to the gate of Leh Palace, built in the 17th century. Lunch at a cafe in the bazaar. After a rest, drive to Shey to see its large seated Buddha and the view over the Indus. Return to the hotel by late afternoon. Keep the evening quiet and drink plenty of water. The walk takes about two and a half hours.

Day03

Thiksey at dawn and Hemis

Overnight: Leh≈ 100 km · 2.5 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Leave at 5.30 am for Thiksey's morning prayers, then breakfast. Drive on to Hemis, Ladakh's largest monastery, for its courtyard, chapels and museum. Lunch at Hemis, then return via Stakna. In the afternoon, your guide collects your permits for Nubra and Pangong. An early dinner, as tomorrow starts early. Leave Leh at 5.30 am for Thiksey, so you are seated before the horns sound. Hemis's museum deserves an hour. Rest in the afternoon.

Day04

Over Khardung La to Nubra

Overnight: Sumur≈ 150 km · 5.5 hMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Leave by 8 am for the climb to Khardung La, at 5,359 m. A short stop at the top, then descend through North Pullu into the Nubra valley. Lunch near Khalsar, then cross the Shyok to Sumur and Lchang Nang Retreat. In the late afternoon, walk to Samstanling monastery, a short distance from the retreat, or simply rest in the garden. Keep the stop on the pass short. Nubra is lower than Leh.

Day05

Diskit, Hunder and Panamik

Overnight: Sumur≈ 120 km · 3.5 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Morning prayers at Diskit monastery, then the 32 m Maitreya facing down the valley. Return to Sumur for lunch. In the afternoon choose between the hot springs and old village of Panamik, to the north, or a slow rest. Before sunset, drive to the Hunder dunes for the golden light and the Bactrian camels. Dinner at Lchang Nang. Bring a warm layer for the dunes, as Nubra cools quickly after sunset.

Day06

The Shyok road to Pangong

Overnight: Pangong≈ 165 km · 6 hMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

An early start along the Shyok road through Agham and Shyok village, a narrow valley of red and grey rock, to Durbuk and Tangtse. Lunch in Tangtse, then the first view of the lake at Lukung and on to your camp at Spangmik. Afternoon and sunset on the shore. At 4,225 m, take it easy, drink plenty and avoid alcohol. Step outside after dark for the stars. Wrap up warmly tonight.

Day07

Dawn on the lake, Chang La to Leh

Overnight: Leh≈ 160 km · 5 hMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Walk the shore at dawn with a flask of tea, when the water is still. After breakfast, drive back over Chang La, at 5,360 m, to Karu, stopping at Chemrey or Takthok monastery on the way. Arrive in Leh mid-afternoon. A final walk in the bazaar and a farewell dinner. The drive takes about five hours. Lunch is in Tangtse or at Karu, and the evening is free for a final dinner.

Day08

Fly home from Leh

≈ 4 km · 15 minMeals: Breakfast

Breakfast and transfer to Leh airport for your morning flight. If the flight is later in the morning, there may be time for a short visit to Spituk monastery above the runway. Your guide sees you through check-in. We keep this last night in Leh deliberately, as a buffer in case of road closures on the way back from Pangong. Keep warm layers and medicines in your hand luggage. Allow two hours.

Map of Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, LehIndiaChinaLeh1LehNubra Valley2Nubra ValleyPangong Tso3Pangong TsoLeh4Leh50 kmN
  1. 1Leh 3 nights
  2. 2Nubra Valley 2 nights
  3. 3Pangong Tso 1 night
  4. 4Leh 1 night
Drawn by Tales of Luxury from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Included

  • 7 nights in the stays named or similar, twin sharing, including the best available camp at Pangong
  • Daily breakfast and the meals listed
  • Private SUV with an experienced Ladakhi driver
  • Private English-speaking guide
  • Permits for Nubra and Pangong, and environmental fees
  • Monastery entry fees
  • Oxygen cylinder and pulse oximeter in the vehicle

Not included

  • Flights to and from Leh
  • Travel insurance with high-altitude cover
  • Camel rides at Hunder
  • Drinks, tips and personal expenses
  • Anything not listed as included

Good to know

  1. The journey crosses two passes above 5,300 m and includes a night at 4,225 m.
  2. If the Shyok road is closed, we return to Leh from Nubra and drive to Pangong from there.
  3. Lchang Nang is seasonal; outside its months we use the best camp in Hunder.
  4. Mobile coverage is limited in Nubra and very limited at Pangong.
  5. Bring a down jacket for Pangong and the passes, even in July.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Is seven nights enough for Ladakh?

Seven nights is enough for Leh, Nubra and Pangong with proper acclimatisation. It does not leave time for Tso Moriri, Hanle or Turtuk. For those, plan ten to twelve nights. We would never shorten the three nights in Leh at the start.

Why go to Nubra before Pangong?

Nubra is lower than Leh, so sleeping there after crossing Khardung La is easier. By the time you reach Pangong, at 4,225 m, you have had five nights to adjust. The loop also avoids driving the same road twice. It also saves time.

Can we stay two nights at Pangong?

Yes, but most guests find one night enough. A second night allows a morning drive to Man and Merak. The altitude makes sleep harder, so we only suggest it for guests who are feeling well. We decide on the day if needed.

Do we need permits for this journey?

Yes, for Nubra and Pangong. Foreigners need a Protected Area Permit, and Indian nationals have needed an Inner Line Permit or online registration. We arrange them in Leh. Check current status before you travel. There is nothing for you to arrange yourself.

Is this journey suitable for children?

Yes, for healthy children who are well acclimatised. Nubra is especially popular with families. The night at Pangong and the high passes need care. Children under about six may find the long drives hard. Our family journey is gentler still.

What is the best time for this journey?

June to September is best, when all roads and camps are open. May and early October are possible, with colder nights and some camps closed. July and August are busiest. Book early for the best rooms at Lchang Nang and the best lake-facing tents at Pangong.

What kind of vehicle do you use?

A recent, well-maintained SUV such as a Toyota Innova Crysta or similar, with an experienced Ladakhi driver who knows the passes. We carry oxygen, a first-aid kit and a pulse oximeter. Larger groups travel in two vehicles for comfort. Water and snacks are always on board.

What does the journey cost?

From ₹2,60,000 per person, twin sharing, with the stays named, private car and guide, permits and the meals listed. July and August rates are higher. Flights are extra. Single travellers, festival dates and peak weeks in July and August cost more, and we confirm the exact price once your dates and rooms are fixed.

What if a road closes during the journey?

Roads occasionally close after snow, rain or landslides. Our drivers check conditions every morning, and the final night in Leh acts as a buffer. If needed, we reroute, for example returning from Nubra via Leh to Pangong. You will rarely notice the changes.

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