Why three days, and why slowly
Almost every Ladakh journey begins in Leh, and almost every visitor arrives by air from Delhi, landing at 3,500 m with no time to adjust. The first three days in Leh are therefore doing two jobs at once: showing you the town and the great monasteries of the Indus valley, and letting your body acclimatise before you cross the high passes to Nubra or Pangong.
The secret is to treat those two jobs in the right order. Rest comes first, sightseeing second. A traveller who spends the first afternoon walking the bazaar and climbing to Shanti Stupa often spends the next day in bed with a headache. A traveller who sleeps the first afternoon is usually out at Thiksey by dawn on day three, feeling well. The plan below follows that rhythm.
Your guide will adjust the plan each day according to how everyone feels. If someone in your party needs an extra morning in bed, the day simply starts later. The monasteries will still be there tomorrow.
Day one: arrive and rest
Morning flights from Delhi land in Leh between about 7 and 10 am, depending on the airline and season. Your guide meets you at arrivals, and the drive to central Leh takes 15 minutes. From that moment, the goal is to do as little as possible. Check in, have a light lunch, and sleep in the afternoon if you can. Drink water and herbal tea steadily, and avoid alcohol and long, very hot showers.
In the late afternoon, if you feel well, sit in the hotel garden and watch the light change on the Stok range across the valley. Eat an early, light dinner and go to bed early. A mild headache, a racing heart at night and poor sleep are all normal on the first night. Tell your guide about anything stronger, such as vomiting or a severe headache.
Day two: old town, palace and Shey
After breakfast, walk slowly through Leh's old town with a local guide. The lanes behind Main Bazaar wind uphill past mud-brick houses, small shrines and restored buildings, and bakeries sell warm khambir from clay ovens. Your guide will explain how the houses work, with animals below, kitchens in the middle and flat roofs for drying apricots. Stop whenever you need to; the car can meet you at the palace gate.
Leh Palace, built for King Sengge Namgyal in the early 17th century, rises nine storeys above the town. Its rooms are mostly bare, but the roof gives the best view in Leh: the old town below, Shanti Stupa on its ridge, green fields and the Stok peaks to the south. Allow about two and a half hours for the walk and the palace.
After lunch and a rest, drive 15 km south to Shey, the old summer capital, where a large seated Buddha fills a chapel beside the ruined palace. The view over the Indus and its willow-lined fields is lovely in the late afternoon. Return to the hotel for an early dinner.
Day three: Thiksey at dawn, Hemis and Stakna
Leave at 5.30 am in summer for Thiksey, 19 km from Leh, to sit at the back of the assembly hall for morning prayers. Two monks blow long horns from the roof to call the community, and novices pour butter tea along the rows. Afterwards, climb to the Maitreya temple and the roof for the view down the Indus. Breakfast on the terrace of a cafe nearby or back at the hotel.
Mid-morning, drive on to Hemis, about 45 km from Leh, Ladakh's largest and wealthiest monastery. Its painted courtyard, chapels and museum of thangkas and masks deserve two hours. Lunch at the monastery cafe or a picnic by the Indus. On the way back, stop at Stakna, a small monastery on a rock above the river, for the afternoon light.
By the end of day three, most travellers are well adjusted, and the following day can bring the first big trip out, over Khardung La to Nubra. If anyone in your party is still feeling the altitude, we add a gentle fourth day in Leh instead.
If you have a fourth day
A fourth day in Leh is never wasted. Cross the Indus to Stok, where the former royal family still lives, and visit the palace museum with its thangkas, ornaments and the queen's turquoise perak headdress. Have lunch with a Ladakhi family in Stok, cooking skyu in their kitchen. In the afternoon, visit Spituk monastery above the airport.
End the day at Shanti Stupa, the white stupa above Changspa built by Japanese Buddhist monks, which looks down over the palace and old town. A road reaches the top, or there are about 500 steps for those who feel strong. The last hour of light here is a fine farewell to Leh before the high country.
Three days at a glance
The table summarises the plan. Distances are short, and every day includes a rest. The order can change with festival dates, monastery timings and how you feel, but the principle stays the same: an easy start and a gradual build.
| Day | Morning | Afternoon | Effort |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arrive, check in, lunch | Rest and sleep | None |
| 2 | Old town walk, Leh Palace | Rest, then Shey | Light |
| 3 | Thiksey prayers, Hemis | Stakna, rest | Light to moderate |
| 4 (optional) | Stok Palace, village lunch | Spituk, Shanti Stupa sunset | Moderate |
Where to stay and eat
For a first visit, we recommend staying in or near central Leh. The Grand Dragon Ladakh is our usual choice, central, heated and open all year, with a staff used to guests at altitude. The Zen Ladakh is a calmer option close to the market. For something different, Chamba Camp Thiksey puts luxury tents below Thiksey monastery in summer, and the Stok Palace Heritage Hotel has rooms in the royal family's home.
Leh has many good restaurants and cafes, serving Ladakhi, Tibetan, Indian, Kashmiri and international food. Try skyu or thukpa at lunch, momos in the evening, and khambir with apricot jam for breakfast. In the first days, choose light meals and avoid alcohol. Your guide will suggest places that suit your taste and timing.
- Book a room facing the mountains for the morning light
- Carry cash in small notes for bakeries and small shops
- Bring a light down jacket even in summer for early starts
- Keep monastery visits early, when prayers are on
Where to go next
After three or four days in Leh, you are ready for the classic trips out of town. Nubra, over Khardung La, is lower than Leh and makes an easy next step. Pangong, over Chang La, is higher and best after Nubra. The lower Indus, with Likir, Basgo, Alchi and Lamayuru, needs no high pass and suits travellers who want to stay low. Further afield lie Tso Moriri, Hanle and Zanskar, for longer journeys.
Whichever you choose, keep the last night of your trip in Leh, if possible, as a buffer against road closures before your flight. It also gives you time for a last walk in the bazaar to buy pashmina, apricots or a thangka to take home.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Is three days in Leh enough?
Three days is enough to acclimatise and see the main sights of Leh and the nearby Indus valley: the old town, the palace, Shey, Thiksey, Hemis and Stakna. A fourth day adds Stok, Spituk and Shanti Stupa. Most journeys then continue to Nubra or Pangong.
What should we do on our first day in Leh?
Nothing beyond lunch and rest. Sleep in the afternoon, drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol. Sightseeing on the first day is the most common cause of altitude problems in Ladakh. A light dinner and early night help. Tell your guide how you feel.
Can we visit Thiksey and Hemis on the same day?
Yes. Thiksey is 19 km from Leh and Hemis about 45 km, on the same road. Start with dawn prayers at Thiksey, then drive on to Hemis by mid-morning. Stakna and Shey fit on the way back. Rest in the afternoon.
What time are morning prayers at Thiksey?
In summer, prayers usually start around 6 am and last about an hour. Timings change with the season. Leave Leh by 5.30 am. We confirm times the day before. Winter prayers start a little later. Wear warm layers, as the hall is cold at dawn.
Is Leh walkable?
Central Leh and the old town are compact and walkable, but slopes feel steep at 3,500 m on the first days. Walk slowly and use the car for longer distances until you are acclimatised. The bazaar is pedestrianised. Evenings in the bazaar are pleasant.
Where is the best place to stay in Leh?
For most first-time visitors, The Grand Dragon Ladakh in central Leh. The Zen Ladakh is a quieter alternative, Chamba Camp Thiksey a summer tented option, and Stok Palace Heritage Hotel the heritage choice. Ladakh Sarai suits those seeking quiet. We match the stay to you.
Do we need permits for Leh?
No. Leh and the monasteries of the Indus valley need no permits. Permits are needed for Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri and Hanle, which we arrange in Leh while you rest. Monastery entry fees are paid at the gate. We arrange the others in Leh.
Is Shanti Stupa hard to climb?
There are about 500 steps from Changspa, which are hard work at altitude, but a road reaches the top. On your first days, drive up. Later in the trip, walking up is a good test of acclimatisation. Sunset is best.
What can we buy in Leh?
Pashmina shawls from cooperatives, dried apricots, apricot oil, sea buckthorn products, thangkas, prayer flags, silver ornaments and Tibetan handicrafts. Buy pashmina from reputable shops; fakes are common. Ask your guide to recommend cooperative shops, where prices are fair and the money goes to Ladakhi producers.
