Hemis
Ladakh's richest monastery and the snow leopard's valleys
Hemis monastery sits in a side valley on the west bank of the Indus, about 45 km from Leh, hidden from the main road until you are almost at its gate. It belongs to the Drukpa lineage and was re-founded in 1672 with the support of King Sengge Namgyal. It is the richest monastery in Ladakh, with a museum of thangkas, statues and ritual objects, and it hosts the region's best-known festival, Hemis Tsechu, each summer.
Across the Indus, the Hemis National Park covers around 4,400 square km of mountains, gorges and side valleys between the Indus and the Zanskar range. Its villages, such as Rumbak, Husing and Urutse, are reached on foot or by a short track from Zingchen. The park is home to bharal (blue sheep), Ladakh urial, Tibetan wolf, Eurasian lynx and, above all, the snow leopard. Summer walkers see bharal and marmots.
We use the name Hemis for both: the monastery for cultural visits from Leh, usually combined with Thiksey, Shey and Stakna, and the park for winter snow leopard trips based in village homestays. In summer the park is also good for walking, with routes such as the Markha valley trek starting here. Both deserve time, and both are an easy drive from Leh. We plan each visit around the season and your interests.
Highlights
What Hemis does best
The main courtyard is surrounded by painted galleries, and the assembly hall and chapels hold large gilded statues. The museum in the basement displays thangkas, masks, silver stupas and old ritual objects. Allow two hours, and go in the morning when the light falls into the courtyard.
Each summer, usually in June or early July, Hemis celebrates the birth of Padmasambhava with two days of masked cham dances in the courtyard. It is Ladakh's largest monastery festival. Every twelve years a giant thangka is unrolled; the next is expected in 2028.
Above the monastery a steep path climbs for about an hour to the Gotsang hermitage, where the 13th-century master Gotsangpa is said to have meditated in a cave. A few monks still live in retreat here. The walk is quiet and the views fine.
Between January and March, snow leopards follow the bharal down into the lower valleys of Hemis National Park around Rumbak and Husing. With local spotters scanning the slopes, sightings are possible on most well-planned trips of five or more days.
Rumbak is a small village of stone houses inside the national park, at around 4,000 m. In winter, families open their homes to snow leopard trackers, and in summer it is a stop on treks towards Stok La and the Markha valley.
The road to Hemis passes three of Ladakh's best monasteries: Shey with its seated Buddha, Thiksey on its hill, and Stakna above the Indus. We usually combine two of them with Hemis in a single day from Leh.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Hemis
The nearest airport is Leh (IXL), about 45 km from the monastery and 25 km from Zingchen, the trailhead for Rumbak.
There is no railway in Ladakh. The nearest useful stations are Jammu Tawi and Chandigarh, both more than 700 km away by road.
Hemis monastery is ≈ 45 km and 1 h from Leh via Karu. For the national park, drive ≈ 25 km and 45 min via Spituk and Stok to Zingchen, then walk or take the track towards Rumbak, which is being extended. Winter access depends on snow. Check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
Most guests visit the monastery from a hotel in Leh, such as The Grand Dragon Ladakh, or from Chamba Camp Thiksey, which is close to the Hemis road. In winter, snow leopard trips base in village homestays in Rumbak or in specialist camps run by tracking teams. These are simple: shared bathrooms in most cases, a warm kitchen with a stove and thick bedding. We bring extra sleeping bags and heaters where possible, and plan nights back in Leh to break the stay.
The Grand Dragon is Leh's most complete hotel: central, centrally heated and open all year, with mountain-view rooms, several restaurants and a staff used to looking …
Chamba Camp Thiksey is a seasonal luxury tented camp in the fields below Thiksey monastery, about 19 km from Leh. Spacious tents with en-suite bathrooms, attentive …
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Five things to know
- Visit the monastery in the morning, and check museum opening hours, which can change.
- For Hemis Tsechu, arrive by 8 am to find a seat in the galleries.
- For snow leopards, plan at least five days in the field; sightings take patience.
- In winter, bring a down suit or expedition jacket rated to −25 °C, plus good boots.
- Carry binoculars on every visit; the park is rich in wildlife even in summer.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Hemis
When is the Hemis festival?
Hemis Tsechu is held on the 10th and 11th days of the fifth month of the Tibetan calendar, usually in June or early July. It honours the birth of Padmasambhava with masked cham dances. Dates change every year, so check current status before you travel. Book hotels early, as Leh fills up.
Is Hemis National Park good for snow leopards?
Yes, it is one of the best places in the world to see snow leopards in the wild. In January to March the cats come down into the lower valleys around Rumbak and Husing after their prey. Experienced spotters greatly improve the odds. Plan at least five days in the park.
How big is Hemis National Park?
Hemis National Park covers around 4,400 square km between the Indus and the Zanskar range, making it one of the largest protected areas in India. It was created in 1981 and includes the Rumbak, Markha and Sumdah valleys, with several small villages inside.
Do we need a permit for Hemis National Park?
Visitors to Hemis National Park pay an entry and camping fee to the Wildlife Department, collected at checkpoints or by your operator. No Protected Area Permit is needed for the park itself. Fees and rules change, so check current status before you travel.
Can we stay overnight at Hemis monastery?
There is a small guesthouse and a few homestays near the monastery, but they are simple. Most guests visit from Leh or Chamba Camp Thiksey, which are close and far more comfortable. During the Tsechu festival, staying in Leh and leaving early is the best plan.
What else can we see near Hemis?
On the way from Leh you pass Shey, Thiksey and Stakna monasteries, and to the east lie Chemrey and Takthok in the Sakti valley. The Gotsang hermitage is an hour's walk above Hemis. Combining two or three of these with Hemis makes a full and satisfying day.
What wildlife lives in Hemis National Park?
Apart from snow leopards, the park holds bharal (blue sheep), Ladakh urial, Tibetan wolf, Eurasian lynx, red fox, Himalayan marmot and golden eagles. In summer, walkers often see bharal and marmots. Lynx and wolves are rarely seen and are always a special sighting.
How cold is it on a winter snow leopard trip?
Very cold. Night temperatures in Rumbak fall to −20 °C or below, and daytime highs rarely rise above −5 °C in January and February. Wind chill makes it feel colder on ridges. With the right clothing and a warm homestay kitchen in the evening, guests manage well.
Can we trek in Hemis National Park in summer?
Yes. The Markha valley trek, one of Ladakh's best-known routes, runs through the park and takes six to eight days. Shorter walks from Zingchen to Rumbak and back are possible in a day or two. Summer is good for bharal and marmots, but snow leopards stay high and are rarely seen.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Hemis
Nearby
Pair it with
Ladakh's capital at 3,500 m, and where every journey begins
Gentle village walks, Likir and Basgo, west of Leh
A long blue lake at 4,225 m that runs into Tibet
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin