Snow leopard tracking in Rumbak

Hemis National Park has one of the highest known densities of snow leopards in the world, and the winter months bring them closer. As snow covers the high pastures, bharal and urial move down into the valleys around Rumbak, Husing and Tarbung, and the leopards follow. Local spotters, many from park villages, scan the ridges from dawn with telescopes and radios. Many spotters have tracked these cats for years. They know every ridge.

Days begin early, with tea in the homestay kitchen, then a slow walk to a vantage point where the team sets up scopes. When a leopard is spotted, often a kilometre or more away, you walk to a closer viewing point. Sightings can last minutes or hours. Many days pass with only tracks, kills and bharal, and patience is essential. Bharal herds keep the days interesting. Golden eagles often circle overhead.

Temperatures fall to −20 °C at night and rarely rise above −5 °C by day. Homestays are simple but warm in the kitchen. We plan four or five nights in the park after three nights in Leh, and we work with experienced tracking teams. Sightings are likely on a trip of this length but never guaranteed. Patience and warm clothing make all the difference. Extra days in the field improve the odds.