Chemrey and the cave temple of Takthok

Chemrey monastery was founded in the 1660s and belongs to the Drukpa lineage like Hemis. Its buildings rise in tiers up a steep conical hill above the village, making it one of the most photographed monasteries in Ladakh. Inside, the main hall has fine statues and the library holds old scriptures with silver and gold lettering. The view from the top takes in the whole Sakti valley. Morning light is best.

A few kilometres further up the valley lies Takthok, built around a cave where Padmasambhava is said to have meditated. It is the only monastery of the Nyingma order in Ladakh. The cave temple is small and smoky with butter lamps, its rock ceiling blackened by centuries of offerings. Takthok holds a festival with masked dances in summer. Visitors should speak quietly in the cave. Remove your shoes at the entrance.

Both monasteries lie on the road to Pangong, so they fit easily into the drive there, or into a half day from Hemis. We visit Chemrey first for the morning light on the hill and finish at Takthok. The roads are paved and the walking short, though Chemrey has steep steps. Allow about four hours for both, including the drive. Lunch can be a picnic by the river or back at Hemis.