Hemis Tsechu
Jun–Jul, 10th–11th days of the 5th Tibetan month (lunar calendar)
Tsechu means tenth day, and the festival is held on the 10th and 11th days of the fifth month of the Tibetan calendar, the day traditionally linked with the birth of Padmasambhava, the master who carried Buddhism to the Himalaya. At Hemis, the courtyard is hung with banners, the galleries fill with villagers in their finest clothes and the monks perform cham, the sacred masked dances, to the sound of long horns, drums and cymbals.
The dances tell stories of the victory of good over evil and of the eight manifestations of Padmasambhava. Dancers wear elaborate brocade costumes and painted masks of deities, protectors and animals. On the first day, the monastery's large thangka of Padmasambhava is usually displayed. Every twelve years, in the Tibetan year of the monkey, a far larger thangka is unrolled; the next is expected in 2028. Crowds are large. Expect large crowds.
The atmosphere is part ritual and part village fair, with stalls selling food, toys and prayer flags outside the gate. Foreign and Indian visitors crowd the galleries, and photographers jostle for space. We arrive early, book reserved seats where they are available, and leave before the afternoon crowds and traffic. Bring a hat, sunscreen and water, as the courtyard is in full sun. Lunch is available at stalls outside the gate.
How to do it well
- Arrive by 8 am to find a good place in the galleries.
- Bring a hat, sunscreen and water; the courtyard is in full sun.
- Book Leh hotels and Chamba Camp Thiksey months ahead for festival dates.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is Hemis festival held?
Hemis Tsechu falls on the 10th and 11th days of the fifth Tibetan month, which is usually in June or early July. The exact dates change each year with the lunar calendar. Check current status before you travel, and book hotels in Leh well ahead.
Do we need tickets for Hemis festival?
Entry to the courtyard has generally been open, with a monastery entry fee. In some years reserved seating has been offered for visitors. Arrangements change, so check current status before you travel. We arrange seating where possible. Arrive early either way.
How far is Hemis from Leh for the festival?
Hemis is about 45 km from Leh, one hour by road, though festival traffic can make it longer. We leave Leh around 7 am to arrive before the dances begin and the car parks fill. Parking can be a walk from the gate.
When is the next giant thangka at Hemis?
The great thangka is unrolled once every twelve years, in the Tibetan year of the monkey. The last display was in 2016, so the next is expected in 2028. Dates will be confirmed nearer the time. Expect very large crowds that year, and book early.
Festival journeys
Routes built around the calendar
