Flying or driving to Ladakh: which is better

Leh's Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL) has several daily flights from Delhi year-round, taking about 75 minutes. Mumbai, Srinagar and Jammu have direct flights in season, and other cities are added in summer. Flights operate in the morning, because strong afternoon winds make landings difficult. The approach over the Himalaya, with snow peaks below the wings on a clear day, is part of the experience. Check current status before you travel.

The drawback is altitude. You go from near sea level to 3,500 m in little more than an hour, with no time to adjust. That makes the 48-hour rest in Leh essential, and it means the first two days of your trip are mostly spent resting. Winter flights can also be delayed by snow, and summer flights fill quickly, so book early.

Baggage allowances on domestic flights are lower than on international routes, so check your fare before packing heavy winter gear or camera equipment. Security at Leh airport is thorough, and departing passengers should arrive about two hours before the flight. Carry hand luggage with medicines, a warm layer and anything valuable, because delays happen in bad weather.

The Srinagar–Leh road is about 420 km and is best driven over two days, with a night in Kargil. It crosses Zoji La, at about 3,528 m, into the dry Drass valley, then continues past Kargil, the rock-carved Maitreya at Mulbekh, Fotu La and Lamayuru to the Indus and Leh. It is the more gradual of the two road routes and the better one for acclimatisation, with the first night at about 2,700 m.

The road is usually open from April or May to November, depending on snow on Zoji La. The Zoji La section is narrow and partly unpaved, and traffic can be heavy with trucks. A tunnel under the pass is being built. Check current status before you travel. The route combines well with time in Kashmir before or after Ladakh.

Along the way there is much to see. Sonamarg's meadows and pine forests give the last green views before Zoji La. Drass, often cited as one of the coldest inhabited places in India, has the Kargil War Memorial. Kargil itself is a busy town of Shia Muslim communities, with comfortable hotels and good Kashmiri food. Beyond, the landscape turns Buddhist at Mulbekh, with prayer flags, chortens and gompas on the ridges.

The Manali–Leh road is about 425 km, now via the Atal Tunnel under the Rohtang Pass, and crosses four high passes: Baralacha La, Nakee La, Lachulung La and Taglang La, at about 5,328 m. It runs through some of the emptiest, most dramatic country in the Himalaya, including the Gata loops and the high More Plains. The usual plan is two days, with a night at Jispa in Lahaul.

This road is higher and harsher than the Srinagar route, with long stretches above 4,500 m and simple stops along the way. It is usually open from late May or June to October. Travellers driving in from Manali should be in good health and ready for a long second day. Check current status before you travel.

Since the Atal Tunnel opened in 2020, the first part of the journey has become much easier, avoiding the crowded and often muddy climb to Rohtang. Jispa, beside the Bhaga river, has comfortable camps and hotels for the night. On the second day, there are few facilities beyond simple tea tents at Sarchu and Pang, so we carry a packed lunch, water and oxygen. The More Plains, a wide high plateau at about 4,700 m, are one of the most surprising sights of the drive.

The table compares the three ways in. Times are realistic for a private car with stops; the road times assume two-day journeys.

The great advantage of driving is that your body adjusts gradually. Starting at Srinagar, about 1,600 m, or Manali, about 2,000 m, you climb over two days and arrive in Leh partly acclimatised. Many travellers who drive in feel better on their first day in Leh than those who fly.

But driving is not a cure-all. The Manali road reaches 5,328 m on Taglang La, and the night at Jispa or Sarchu can be uncomfortable for some. The Srinagar road is gentler. Whichever you choose, rest on arrival in Leh, drink plenty and avoid rushing to high places.

For many guests, the best plan is to fly into Leh and drive out. You acclimatise properly in Leh, see Ladakh at your own pace, and then enjoy the road journey at the end, when you are strong and well adjusted. Driving west to Srinagar means descending gradually, which feels wonderful after days at altitude, and makes an easy link to a stay in Kashmir.

Driving out to Manali works too, with a night at Jispa and an onward journey to Shimla, Dharamshala or Delhi. Our Leh to Srinagar journey follows the fly-in, drive-out plan, with a night at Lamayuru before the final day over Zoji La.

• Fly in to Leh and rest for 48 hours
• Explore Ladakh for a week or more
• Drive out to Srinagar via Lamayuru and Kargil
• Or drive out to Manali via Taglang La and Jispa

If you have a week or less, fly both ways and spend your time in Ladakh, not on the road. If you have ten days or more and love mountain drives, add a road journey at the end, choosing Srinagar for comfort and Kashmir, or Manali for high-altitude drama and Himachal. Avoid driving in on the Manali road if anyone in your party is nervous about altitude.

Whatever you choose, travel in a private car with an experienced driver who knows the route, carry oxygen, and leave a spare day for closures. Mountain roads are unpredictable, and a relaxed schedule makes the difference between an anxious trip and an enjoyable one.

Road journeys also need the right vehicle. We use a recent SUV with good suspension and an experienced driver who has driven the route many times, and we time departures to cross the high passes in the morning, before afternoon snow or meltwater makes conditions harder.