Goa with children: where to stay and what to do

We choose family resorts for space, calm beaches, pools, good food and short drives to the sights. In the north, Taj Fort Aguada and its sister, Taj Holiday Village, share the Sinquerim beach below the fort, one of the calmest in north Goa, with gardens and pools. In the south, The Leela Goa at Mobor has lagoons, wide lawns and a long, quiet beach; Taj Exotica at Benaulim has lawns that run straight onto the sand. Both have offered children's programmes in season.

Families who want privacy often prefer a private villa in Assagao or Siolim, with a pool, a cook and housekeeping. Villas suit larger families and groups with grandparents, and the kitchen can cook to children's tastes. We look for fenced pools and child-safe layouts when we choose.

Goa's beaches are generally safe for children in season, provided you follow a few rules. Swim only between the lifeguard flags, where they are set, and never near river mouths or rocks, where currents are strong. The calmest family beaches are Sinquerim and Candolim in the north, Benaulim, Varca and the beach in front of The Leela Goa in the south, and Palolem's sheltered bay in the far south.

From June to September, during the monsoon, the sea is rough and swimming is not allowed. Even in season, waves can pick up in the afternoon; mornings are usually calmer. The sun is strong all year, so use high-factor sunscreen, hats and rash vests, and keep children in the shade between noon and 3 pm.

• Swim between the flags, with an adult always in the water
• Avoid river mouths, rocks and headlands
• Mornings are usually calmer than afternoons
• No sea swimming from June to September

Our favourite family outings are short and active. An early dolphin boat from Sinquerim or Mobor, with humpback dolphins often seen in the calm morning water. Fort Aguada, with its walls, cistern and lighthouse, and Reis Magos, with cannons on its ramparts. A forest jeep to Dudhsagar Falls, crossing streams to a pool where children can swim in life jackets while trains cross the viaduct above. A spice farm near Ponda, where children taste cardamom and see pepper growing on vines.

Other good choices are kayaking in the Nerul mangroves for older children, cycling on Divar island's quiet roads, the Museum of Goa's large installations, the turtle hatcheries at Morjim and Agonda in season, and the Sal river boat at sunset. Markets, especially Mapusa on a Friday, fascinate children for an hour, though the fish halls are loud and wet.

A private car with a professional driver is the safest and easiest way to travel in Goa with children. Roads are narrow in the villages and busy on the highways, with scooters, buses and the occasional cow, and we do not recommend self-driving or hiring scooters. Our cars are air-conditioned, carry water and snacks, and can be fitted with infant and child seats, which are not standard in Indian taxis.

Choose the right airport. Mopa (GOX) is in the far north, best for Mandrem, Assagao and Candolim; Dabolim (GOI) is better for Panjim and the south. A wrong choice can add 90 minutes to a transfer with tired children. Within Goa, most outings from a well-chosen base are 20 to 45 minutes each way. For longer days, we plan a stop every hour, at a café, a viewpoint or a beach.

If your family is large, or grandparents want a slower pace, a second car lets the group split between outings and the pool on the same day without anyone waiting.

Children usually eat well in Goa. The resorts have extensive children's menus, and Goan dishes such as fried fish in rava, chicken cafreal, prawn rissóis, cutlets and pão with butter are mild and popular. Kitchens adjust spice on request. Fresh fruit, coconut water and lime soda are everywhere. Bebinca and Goan sweets are a treat.

Drink bottled or filtered water, wash hands before meals, and eat at restaurants we recommend. Mosquitoes are present all year and more so in the monsoon; use repellent in the evenings and choose rooms with screens or air-conditioning. Goa has good private hospitals in Panjim and Margao. Carry your usual children's medicines, a basic first-aid kit and oral rehydration salts. Consult your doctor about routine vaccinations before you travel.

The best family months are November to February: dry, warm, with a calm sea and comfortable mornings. Late October is good, with Dudhsagar at its fullest. March and April are hot but still workable with early starts. May is very humid and best avoided. The monsoon, June to September, suits older children who enjoy rain, but there is no sea swimming and many outings close.

School holidays shape prices. Diwali, which falls in October or November, Christmas and New Year are the busiest weeks, with the highest rates and minimum stays. If you can travel in mid-November or the second half of January, you get the same weather at lower prices.

We plan family journeys around the children's ages and rhythms. Drives are kept under an hour wherever possible, with one longer day at most, such as Dudhsagar, followed by a free day. Car seats are fitted for young children, and snack boxes are packed for every outing. We book connecting rooms or family suites and confirm them before you travel.

A typical week might be three nights at Taj Fort Aguada, with a dolphin boat, the forts and the Museum of Goa, then four at The Leela Goa, with Dudhsagar and a spice farm on the way south, a Sal river boat and long beach days. Grandparents and teenagers can join different outings on the same day, with a second car if needed.