Morning prayers at Lamayuru

Lamayuru's monastery spreads over a rocky ridge above the village, its buildings a mix of old and new, linked by stairways and courtyards. It belongs to the Drikung Kagyu order and houses a community of monks. Morning prayers begin around 7 am in summer, and visitors are allowed to sit quietly at the back of the hall. Arrive early to find a quiet place at the back. The setting is dramatic.

After prayers, a monk may show you the small cave chapel where Naropa is said to have meditated, with images of the master and of Padmasambhava. The main assembly hall holds statues of the Buddha, Avalokiteshvara and protector deities, along with murals and thangkas. Some parts of the older monastery are ruined and are slowly being restored. Your guide explains the iconography and history. Ask before photographing any of the halls.

From the roof terraces, you look down on the village and across the eroded cliffs of the moonland. Morning light here is cool and clear. We take breakfast at a village cafe or picnic by the stream before continuing to Wanla or back towards Leh. From Nimmu House, the drive takes about two hours, so we leave at 6 am. A warm layer helps in the cold halls. Allow two hours.