The ruined fort-temples of Basgo

Basgo lies on the Srinagar highway, about 40 km west of Leh. Above the village, a ridge of soft, eroded earth is crowned by the ruins of a royal fort and its temples. Basgo was a seat of the rulers of lower Ladakh before the court moved to Leh, and its fort withstood a long siege in the late 17th century. The site is quiet. Few visitors linger here. The views are wide.

Within the ruins, three temples survive, built between the 15th and 17th centuries. The Chamba Lhakhang and Serzang temples hold large, gilded statues of Maitreya and walls covered with murals of deities and mandalas. Conservation work in recent decades has saved the temples from collapse. A caretaker opens the temples. Bring a small torch to see the murals in the dim light. Your guide explains the iconography. Allow time to look closely.

The walk up from the road is short but steep and uneven. In the late afternoon, the ruins and the ridge glow in warm light, and the view over the Indus valley is wide. We often stop here on the way back to Nimmu House or Leh. Allow about an hour and a half. Photographers should bring a wide lens. Good shoes help on the loose earth. Carry water and a hat.