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Tezpur's legends, hills and riverbank

A half-day in Tezpur, the old town on the Brahmaputra 30 km south of the estate: Agnigarh hill and the legend of Usha and Aniruddha, the Mahabhairab temple, and sunset over the river and the Kaliabhomora bridge.
Tezpur's legends, hills and riverbank
Photo: Anupom007bora at English Wikipedia · Public domain, Wikimedia Commons

Tezpur means city of blood in Assamese, a name taken from a legend of a great battle between the god Krishna and the demon king Banasura, whose daughter Usha had fallen in love with Krishna's grandson Aniruddha. Agnigarh, a small hill on the riverbank, is said to be where Usha was kept, and today it has a sculpted stairway telling the story and a viewpoint over the Brahmaputra.

We continue to the Mahabhairab temple, an old Shiva shrine on a hillock in the town, and to Chitralekha Udyan, also known as Cole Park, a lakeside garden that holds ancient stone carvings found in the area. Tezpur has been a seat of kings since early times, and fragments of temples and gateways are scattered through the town.

The outing ends on the riverbank at sunset, looking across the wide Brahmaputra to the Kaliabhomora bridge. Tezpur has small sweet shops worth a stop; we suggest a cup of tea and Assamese pitha before the drive back to the estate.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

What is there to see in Tezpur?

Agnigarh hill with its legend of Usha and Aniruddha and views over the Brahmaputra, the Mahabhairab temple, Chitralekha Udyan with its ancient carvings, and the riverfront at sunset. It makes a pleasant half-day from Balipara or a stop on the way to Kaziranga or Arunachal.

How far is Tezpur from Wild Mahseer?

About 30 km, or 40 to 45 minutes by road. Tezpur airport is a similar distance. The town sits on the north bank of the Brahmaputra, linked to Kaziranga by the Kaliabhomora bridge, about 2.5 hours from Kohora.

Why is Tezpur called the city of blood?

The name comes from a legend of a battle between Krishna and the demon king Banasura over the love of Banasura's daughter Usha and Krishna's grandson Aniruddha. Tradition says so much blood was spilt that the town took the name, from tez, blood, and pur, city.

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