Tsomgo Lake and the road to Nathu La
The road from Gangtok climbs steeply north-east through forest and then bare alpine slopes to Tsomgo, about 38 km and 2 to 2.5 hours away. The lake, about 1 km long, is held sacred by the Sikkimese and changes with the seasons: frozen from about January to March, surrounded by rhododendrons and primulas from April to June, and clear under blue skies in October and November.
Permits are required for all visitors and are arranged through registered tour operators in Gangtok, usually a day in advance. Foreign nationals can visit Tsomgo in groups with a permit. Indian citizens may continue to Nathu La, the pass on the old trade route to Tibet, at about 4,310 m, where the Indian and Chinese border posts stand a few metres apart. Nathu La opens only on certain days of the week.
We leave early to reach the lake before the crowds and before cloud builds. The altitude is significant, so we move slowly, keep the stop short and carry warm layers even in summer. Kitschy yak rides and stalls line part of the lakeshore; walk a little way along to find quiet.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Do I need a permit for Tsomgo Lake?
Yes. Both Indian and foreign visitors need a permit for Tsomgo Lake, arranged through a registered tour operator in Gangtok, usually a day in advance, with ID and photographs. Foreign nationals may have to travel in groups of at least two. Check current status before you travel.
Can foreigners visit Nathu La?
No. Nathu La is open only to Indian citizens, with a permit arranged through a registered operator and only on certain days of the week. Foreigners can visit Tsomgo Lake with the correct permit but must turn back before Nathu La.
Is Tsomgo Lake frozen in winter?
Usually from about January to March, when the lake and surrounding slopes are covered in snow and ice. Heavy snow can close the road. April and May bring rhododendrons, and October and November give clear skies and good road conditions.
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