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Lunch in a Khasi family kitchen

A home-cooked lunch with a Mawlynnong family: red rice, local chicken or pork, dal, greens from the garden and sharp chutneys, served at their table with time to talk about village life.
Lunch in a Khasi family kitchen
Photo: Madhumita Das · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Several families in Mawlynnong cook for visitors, and the food is simple and seasonal. A typical meal includes red rice or jadoh, a pork or chicken curry flavoured with ginger, black sesame or bamboo shoot, a light lentil soup, stir-fried greens and a fiery chutney of local chilli. Vegetarian meals are easy to arrange with a day's notice.

Eating at home gives a different view of the village. Over lunch your hosts may talk about the broom grass harvest, the church calendar, the matrilineal system that passes property through the youngest daughter, or how the village has changed since its fame. Your guide translates where needed, though many villagers speak English.

We pre-arrange the lunch so the family can prepare, and pay them directly at a fair rate. It works well after the Riwai root bridge and before the drive back to Shillong, or as a pause between Dawki and the village walk.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

What food is served in Mawlynnong?

Simple Khasi home food: rice or jadoh, pork or chicken curries, lentils, garden greens and spicy chutneys. Bamboo shoot and black sesame are common flavours. Vegetarian meals are available with notice. Small eateries in the village also serve tea, snacks and set meals.

Is the food in Mawlynnong spicy?

Khasi food is generally less spicy than many Indian cuisines, but chutneys made with local chilli can be very hot. Tell your hosts your preference and they will serve chutneys on the side. The main dishes rely more on ginger, sesame and herbs than on heat.

Do I need to book lunch in Mawlynnong?

For a family lunch, yes, ideally a day ahead so the household can prepare. We arrange this as part of your day. Walk-in meals are available at small eateries in the village, but a home lunch is more rewarding and more relaxed.

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