The blue city lanes and the stepwell
Below the fort, the oldest parts of Jodhpur are a maze of lanes too narrow for cars. Many houses are washed in blue: some say it was first the colour of Brahmin households, others that indigo kept the houses cool or kept insects away. The answer is probably all three. Walking is the only way to see it, and a local guide stops you getting lost in the first five minutes.
We start from the fort's lower gates in the early morning and walk down through Navchokiya and Brahmpuri, past small temples, doorways and courtyard houses. People are out sweeping steps, buying milk and taking children to school. Your guide knows which families are happy to talk and which corners give the best views up to the fort.
The walk ends at Toorji ka Jhalra, an 18th-century stepwell that was cleaned and restored in recent years, and then at Sardar Market around the clock tower, for spices, textiles and a famous makhaniya lassi. The car waits by the market gate for the drive back to the hotel.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Why is Jodhpur called the blue city
Many houses in the old city below Mehrangarh are painted blue. Explanations include that it marked Brahmin homes, that indigo-tinted lime kept houses cooler, and that it deterred insects. Whatever the reason, the colour is clearest from the fort ramparts and in the lanes of Brahmpuri.
Is the blue city walk suitable for older travellers
It involves steps, uneven lanes and a downhill walk of about 2 km. Most guests in reasonable health manage it at a slow pace. For guests with limited mobility, we drive to the clock tower and walk a short, flat section instead.
What should I buy in Jodhpur
Spices from Sardar Market, bandhani tie-dye, dhurrie rugs from Salawas, leather mojari slippers and antique and reproduction furniture from the warehouses on the edge of town. Furniture can be shipped; we confirm costs and timelines before you buy. Our blue city walk ends at Sardar Market by the clock tower, best for spices and textiles, and at Salawas you can buy dhurries directly from the weavers.
Also in Jodhpur
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