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São João

24 June each year, the feast of St John the Baptist

São João, on 24 June, is Goa's monsoon feast of St John the Baptist. Young men wearing crowns of leaves and flowers leap into village wells and streams, and in Siolim decorated boats parade on the river. It is cheerful, wet and very local.
São João
Photo: Fredericknoronha · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The feast recalls John the Baptist leaping in his mother's womb when Mary visited, and in Goa it arrives with the first full monsoon rains, when wells and ponds are brimming. Men and boys wear kopels, crowns of fruit, leaves and flowers, and go from house to house singing, then jump into wells, ponds and streams. Newly married men are traditionally welcomed by their in-laws with fruit and feni.

Siolim, on the Chapora river about 6 km from Assagao, is the best-known place to see it. The village holds a boat festival on the creek near the St Anthony's Church, with floats and rafts decorated in competition, music and crowds along the banks. Other villages in Bardez and Salcete hold smaller celebrations of their own.

We arrange São João as part of a monsoon stay, with a local guide who knows the Siolim families and a covered spot near the creek.

How to do it well

  1. Expect rain and wear clothes and shoes you do not mind getting soaked.
  2. Arrive in Siolim by late morning; the boat parade usually starts in the afternoon.
  3. Feni flows freely, so keep a driver for the day.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

When is São João celebrated in Goa?

São João is celebrated every year on 24 June, the feast of St John the Baptist. Some villages hold events on the nearest weekend as well. It falls in the first weeks of the monsoon, so rain is almost certain.

Where is the best place to see São João?

Siolim, on the Chapora river in north Goa, holds the best-known boat parade, with decorated rafts on the creek near St Anthony's Church. Villages in Bardez such as Assagao, Anjuna and Calangute, and in Salcete, hold smaller celebrations with well jumping.

Can visitors take part in São João?

Visitors are welcome to watch and join the crowd along the creek, and many wear a kopel, the leaf-and-flower crown, for the day. Jumping into wells is best left to locals who know the depth. A guide helps you find the family celebrations, which are the heart of the day.

Is it worth visiting Goa in June for São João?

If you like the monsoon, yes. Rates are low, the countryside is green and the feast is one of the most joyful days in the Goan calendar. Swimming in the sea is not safe in June, so plan the trip around food, villages and the festival rather than the beach.

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