Goavillage

Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator

Villa lanes, flea markets and a clifftop fort in north Goa

Assagao is a green inland village of old Portuguese houses that has become north Goa's most sought-after villa address, with many of its best restaurants. Anjuna and Vagator, 3 to 5 km away, bring the beach, the Wednesday flea market and Chapora Fort. Stay 3 to 5 nights in a villa or at W Goa.

Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Assagao sits in a fold of low hills in Bardez, about 18 km north of Panjim and 3 km inland from Anjuna. For centuries it was a quiet Catholic village of paddy, coconut groves and large family houses, many left half-empty as families emigrated to Bombay, East Africa and the Gulf. Over the last two decades, those houses have been restored as private homes and villas, and the village now holds some of Goa's best restaurants, cafés and design shops.

Anjuna, on the coast, became famous in the late 1960s and 1970s as a stop on the hippie trail, and its Wednesday flea market is a descendant of the swap meets of that era. Vagator, just north, has red laterite cliffs and small coves below Chapora Fort, the hilltop ruin where the Chapora river meets the sea. Siolim, on the river's south bank 6 km away, is known for its São João boat festival in June.

We treat this area as north Goa's villa country. A private house in Assagao or Siolim, with a pool, a cook and housekeeping, suits families and friends travelling together. For those who prefer a hotel, W Goa sits below Chapora Fort at Vagator. Mopa airport is 45 minutes away and Panjim 40.

Highlights

What Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator does best

Assagao's houses and lanesRestored Portuguese-era houses with deep verandahs, red-tile roofs and coloured walls line Assagao's lanes, between paddy and coconut groves. A walk or slow drive in the late afternoon shows the village at its best.
North Goa's best tablesAssagao and nearby Anjuna, Siolim and Saligao have become north Goa's restaurant quarter, from modern Goan cooking to wood-fired and Mediterranean kitchens. We book tables weeks ahead in December.
Anjuna Wednesday marketThe weekly flea market on the Anjuna clifftop runs from about November to April, with textiles, silverwork, spices, Kashmiri and Tibetan stalls and secondhand goods. Go at 10 am, before the heat.
Chapora FortA ruined Adil Shahi and Portuguese fort on the hill above Vagator, where the Chapora river meets the sea. The walk up takes 15 minutes, and the view at sunset takes in Morjim and the river mouth.
Mapusa Friday marketThe market town of Mapusa, 8 km inland, fills every Friday with farmers, fishmongers, sausage and pottery sellers from across Bardez. It is the most Goan of the markets and almost free of tourist stalls.
São João at SiolimOn 24 June, the Siolim creek fills with decorated boats and rafts for the feast of St John, and young men in crowns of leaves jump into wells. It is the best monsoon day out in north Goa.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

culture · 2.5 hours Assagao's old houses on foot and by bicycle Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator, Goa

craft · 2.5 hours The Anjuna Wednesday flea market Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator, Goa

nature · 1.5 hours Sunset at Chapora Fort Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator, Goa

food · 2 hours The Mapusa Friday market Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator, Goa

Getting there

How to reach Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator

Air

Manohar International Airport at Mopa (GOX) is about 30 km, around 45 minutes via the NH66. Dabolim Airport (GOI) is about 50 km, roughly 1 h 15 min through Panjim. We route north Goa guests through Mopa where flights allow.

Rail

Thivim station on the Konkan Railway is about 15 km, 30 minutes by car, and is served by trains from Mumbai and Mangaluru. Madgaon is about 60 km, 1.5 hours.

Road

Assagao is ≈ 18 km · 40 min from Panjim, ≈ 12 km · 25 min from Candolim and ≈ 20 km · 40 min from Mandrem via the Siolim bridge. Anjuna and Vagator are 3 to 5 km from Assagao. The lanes are narrow, so we use compact cars for village drives.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Most of our guests here stay in private villas in Assagao, Siolim, Anjuna or Saligao, restored Portuguese houses or modern homes with pools, a cook and staff, which we choose and inspect ourselves. They suit families and groups of friends for stays of four nights or more. For a hotel, W Goa at Vagator, below Chapora Fort, is the stylish and lively choice, with direct views over the beach. Couples wanting quiet may prefer Ahilya by the Sea at Nerul, 25 minutes south.

resort · Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator W Goa

A lively design resort on the rocks above Vagator beach, below the walls of Chapora Fort. Bright interiors, a beach bar and DJ evenings make it …

From our planners

Five things to know

Book restaurant tables in Assagao two to three weeks ahead in December and January.
Go to the Anjuna market at opening, around 10 am, and leave by 1 pm.
Climb Chapora Fort 45 minutes before sunset; the path is steep and rocky, so wear proper shoes.
Mapusa market is on Fridays; arrive by 9 am for the best produce.
The Saturday night market at Arpora, about 6 km away, runs in season; check current status before you travel.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator

Is Assagao a good place to stay in Goa?

Yes, for villa stays. Assagao has quiet lanes, restored Portuguese-era houses with pools and staff, and many of north Goa's best restaurants within a few minutes' drive. It is 3 km from the beach at Anjuna and 45 minutes from Mopa airport.

Is Anjuna still a party destination?

Anjuna and Vagator still have clubs and late-night music in season, though large outdoor parties are restricted by noise rules. Most of our guests experience the quieter side: the market, the cliffs, the fort and the restaurants. Villas in Assagao are away from the noise.

What is the best beach near Assagao?

Vagator, with its laterite cliffs and small coves below Chapora Fort, is the most attractive. Anjuna is rocky at its southern end. For long, quiet sand, Ashvem and Mandrem are 30 to 40 minutes north across the Chapora river.

How far is Assagao from Mopa airport?

About 30 km, roughly 45 minutes by car. Dabolim Airport is about 50 km, around 1 h 15 min. We route guests staying in Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator through Mopa where flights allow.

Is Assagao good for families?

Yes. A private villa with a pool and a cook suits families well, and the area has enough for children: the forts, the flea market, a short drive to calm beaches at Candolim and Morjim, and good, relaxed restaurants.

Do I need a car in Assagao?

Yes. The village is spread out and the beaches, markets and restaurants are 3 to 10 km apart. We provide a private car and driver for your stay. Taxis are available but must be booked, and there is no ride-hailing as in big cities.

Is Vagator beach safe for swimming?

In season, from October to May, swim only in the flagged areas with lifeguards. Vagator has rocks and currents, especially near the headlands. The sea is rough and swimming is unsafe from June to September across Goa.

What is there to do in Anjuna?

The Wednesday flea market, walks along the red cliffs, Chapora Fort at sunset, beach cafés and, in season, the Saturday night market at nearby Arpora. Assagao's restaurants and Mapusa's Friday market are within 15 minutes.

Can you visit Assagao in the monsoon?

Yes, and the village is beautiful in the rain, with paddy fields turning green from July. Many villas offer lower monsoon rates, restaurants stay open, and São João in Siolim on 24 June is a highlight. Swimming in the sea is not safe in this season.