Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem

North Goa's quiet beaches, from the Chapora mouth to Arambol

Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem are the quiet beaches of Pernem, north of the Chapora river, about 25 minutes from Mopa airport. Long, clean sand, olive ridley turtle nesting from November to March and morning yoga make them the north's calmest stretch. Visit as a day from Assagao or stay in a villa.

Photo: Original: Vyacheslav Argenberg Derivative work… · CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

North of the Chapora river, Goa's coast changes. The province of Pernem was one of the New Conquests, added to Portuguese territory only in the 18th century, and it stayed rural and Hindu in character long after Bardez to the south had filled with churches and resorts. Its beaches, Morjim, Ashvem, Mandrem and Arambol, run in an almost unbroken line for about 15 km.

Morjim, at the river mouth, is a protected nesting site for olive ridley turtles, which come ashore at night between November and March. Ashvem and Mandrem, to the north, are wide and quiet, with a few low-key beach cafés and yoga shalas set back behind the dunes. Mandrem has a creek that runs parallel to the sea, crossed by small bridges to the sand.

There are no large luxury hotels here, which is part of the appeal. We arrange private villas in Mandrem and Morjim, or visit as a day from Assagao and W Goa, 30 to 40 minutes away over the Siolim bridge. Mopa airport is only 25 minutes inland, which makes this a good first or last night in Goa.

Highlights

What Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem does best

Olive ridley nesting at MorjimFrom November to March, olive ridley turtles come ashore at night to lay eggs on a protected stretch of Morjim beach. Forest department staff guard the nests, and hatchlings are released from about January to April.
Ashvem and Mandrem sandsWide, clean beaches with few shacks, backed by casuarinas and a freshwater creek at Mandrem. In January the sand is almost empty in the early morning.
Morning yogaMandrem and Ashvem have long been home to small yoga schools and shalas. We arrange private classes with an experienced teacher on a villa terrace or a quiet stretch of beach at sunrise.
The Chapora riverThe tidal river behind Morjim is lined with mangroves and fishing villages. A kayak or a slow boat at dawn shows kingfishers, egrets and fishermen at work, with Chapora Fort on the southern bank.
Fort TiracolAt Goa's northern tip, a small 18th-century fort and church sit on a headland across the Tiracol river from Querim beach, with views down the whole coast.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

wellness · 1.5 hours Sunrise yoga on Mandrem beach Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem, Goa

wildlife · 2 hours Olive ridley turtles at Morjim Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem, Goa

water · 2.5 hours Kayaking the Chapora river at dawn Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem, Goa

culture · 4 hours Fort Tiracol and Querim beach Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem, Goa

Getting there

How to reach Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem

Air

Manohar International Airport at Mopa (GOX) is about 22 km from Mandrem, roughly 30 minutes by car. Dabolim Airport (GOI) is about 65 km, 1.5 hours through Panjim. For this area, Mopa is far the better choice.

Rail

Pernem station on the Konkan Railway is about 15 km, 25 minutes, though few long-distance trains stop there. Thivim, about 20 km and 35 minutes, has more services from Mumbai.

Road

From Assagao, cross the Chapora at Siolim to Chopdem: ≈ 20 km · 40 min to Mandrem. From Panjim it is ≈ 35 km · 1 h, and from Candolim ≈ 30 km · 50 min. Roads are narrow in the villages, and evening traffic at Siolim can be slow.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

There are no large luxury resorts on this stretch of coast, and we do not use the many simple beach huts. Instead, we arrange private villas in Mandrem, Ashvem and Morjim, a few with direct access to the creek or the beach, with a cook and housekeeping. They suit couples on a quiet honeymoon and families who want space. Alternatively, stay at W Goa in Vagator or in an Assagao villa, 30 to 40 minutes away, and visit for a long beach day with lunch.

From our planners

Five things to know

Fly into Mopa (GOX): Mandrem is only 30 minutes from the terminal.
Turtle nesting areas at Morjim are fenced and guarded; never use torches or flash near the nests.
Ashvem and Mandrem have strong currents in places, so swim near the lifeguard towers.
Many beach cafés close from June to September, and the area is very quiet in the monsoon.
Book sunrise yoga for 6.45 am; by 9 am the sand is already warm.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem

Which is better, Ashvem or Mandrem?

Both are quiet and clean. Ashvem has a few more beach cafés and a slightly more social feel; Mandrem is calmer, with a freshwater creek behind the sand and a stronger yoga scene. Many guests stay in Mandrem and walk to Ashvem along the beach.

Are there luxury hotels in Mandrem?

There are no large luxury resorts in Mandrem, Ashvem or Morjim. We arrange private villas with staff in the area, or base guests at W Goa or an Assagao villa, 30 to 40 minutes away, with a beach day on this stretch.

Is Morjim beach good for swimming?

Morjim is wide and gently shelving, but currents are strong near the Chapora river mouth at its southern end. Swim near the lifeguard towers in season, from October to May. Part of the beach is a protected turtle nesting zone with restrictions.

How far is Mandrem from Mopa airport?

About 22 km, roughly 30 minutes by car. It is one of the closest beach areas to Mopa, which makes Mandrem and Ashvem good choices for the first or last night of a Goa trip.

When can you see turtles in Goa?

Nesting runs from about November to March and hatching from about January to April on Morjim, Agonda and Galgibaga. Sightings depend on the season and are managed by the forest department. Check current status before you travel.

Is north Goa's Pernem coast crowded?

Much less than Calangute, Baga or Anjuna. In late December, Ashvem and Morjim get busier with beach clubs and restaurants, but Mandrem and Querim stay quiet. Early mornings are almost empty in every month of the season.

Is Mandrem good for a honeymoon?

Yes, for couples who want quiet. A private villa with a pool near the creek, sunrise yoga, long beach walks and dinners at the better beach restaurants make an easy, private stay. Combine it with a few nights in the south for contrast.

What is the best time to visit Mandrem and Ashvem?

November to March, when the weather is dry, the sea calm and the beach cafés open. April and May are hot but quiet. From June to September most cafés close, swimming is unsafe and the area is deserted.

Can you visit Arambol from Mandrem?

Yes. Arambol is about 5 km north, 10 minutes by car, with its sweet-water lake behind the beach and a lively, bohemian feel. We suggest a late-afternoon visit and an early return, as the village is busy in the evenings.