Bonderam, Divar's flag festival
Bonderam takes its name from the Portuguese word for flags. The story goes that in Portuguese times, quarrels over land boundaries between the island's wards were settled by planting flags, and that rival groups would knock each other's flags down. The festival turns this into a cheerful contest, with young men carrying flags and throwing small fruit and pellets at rivals' banners.
In the afternoon, a parade of floats moves through the island, each built by a ward or group and judged for design and humour. Brass bands, dancers and costumed figures follow, and the villages fill with visitors from across Goa. Evening brings music and dancing near the church at Piedade.
Because it falls in the monsoon, Bonderam is wet, green and uncrowded by tourists. We cross on an early afternoon ferry with a local guide, find a covered spot near the parade route, and leave before the last ferries are crowded.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is Bonderam held?
Bonderam has traditionally been held on the fourth Saturday of August on Divar island, with events through the afternoon and evening. Dates are set locally and can change, so check current status before you travel. The ferry is busy that day, so we cross early.
What happens at Bonderam?
A parade of decorated floats moves through Divar's villages, accompanied by brass bands, dancers and flag bearers. Groups compete in good-natured mock fights over flags, recalling old boundary disputes. Music and dancing continue into the evening near the main church.
Is Bonderam worth a monsoon trip to Goa?
If you are already in Goa in August, yes. It is a genuinely local festival, little known outside Goa, and the island is at its greenest. Pair it with a monsoon stay at Alila Diwa or Cidade de Goa, and expect rain.
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