Goaheritage site

Old Goa

The UNESCO churches of Portugal's lost Asian capital

Old Goa, 10 km upriver from Panjim, was the capital of Portuguese Asia from 1530 until plague emptied it in the 18th century. What survives is a cluster of great churches and convents, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986. Give it a guided half day, starting at 9 am.

Photo: Josephdesousa · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

In the late 16th century, Goa Dourada, Golden Goa, was one of the largest cities in Asia, the seat of the Portuguese viceroys, the Archbishop and the Inquisition, and the hub of a trade network from Mozambique to Macau. Cholera, malaria and the silting of the Mandovi drove its people out over the 17th and 18th centuries, and by 1843 the capital had moved to Panjim. The houses crumbled; the churches stayed.

Today Old Goa is a quiet expanse of lawns and laterite with a handful of vast buildings standing apart. The Basilica of Bom Jesus holds the body of St Francis Xavier. Across the road, the Se Cathedral is among the largest churches in Asia. The Church of St Francis of Assisi, the Church of St Cajetan and the ruined tower of St Augustine on the Holy Hill complete the core.

UNESCO listed the Churches and Convents of Goa in 1986 for their influence on church architecture across Asia. We visit with a specialist guide who can read the altars, the paintings and the politics, and we go at opening time, before the day-trip coaches arrive. Divar island is a three-minute ferry ride away for the afternoon.

Highlights

What Old Goa does best

Basilica of Bom JesusThe Jesuit church, consecrated in 1605, holds the body of St Francis Xavier in a silver casket above a marble tomb gifted by a Medici grand duke. Its plain laterite façade, unplastered since the 1950s, hides a gilded interior.
Se CathedralBuilt over most of the 16th and early 17th centuries, the cathedral of St Catherine is one of the largest churches in Asia. Its surviving tower holds the Golden Bell, and the main altar is a single wall of gilded carving.
Church of St Francis of AssisiNext to the Se, the Franciscan church has painted walls and ceilings and a carved gilt altar. The former convent beside it houses the Archaeological Museum, with portraits of the viceroys and Hindu and Jain sculpture from the region.
St Augustine's towerOn the Holy Hill, a single 46 m tower and the outlines of a great Augustinian church survive from the 17th century. It is the most atmospheric ruin in Goa, best at 4 pm when the laterite turns red.
Church of St CajetanBuilt by Italian Theatine priests in the 17th century, it is loosely modelled on St Peter's in Rome, with a dome rare in Goa. It stands near the Viceroy's Arch and the old river landing.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

culture · 3 hours Bom Jesus and the Se with a church historian Old Goa, Goa

culture · 1.5 hours St Augustine's tower and the Holy Hill Old Goa, Goa

culture · 1.5 hours The Archaeological Museum and St Cajetan Old Goa, Goa

spiritual · 3.5 hours Ponda's temples of Mangueshi and Shantadurga Old Goa, Goa

Getting there

How to reach Old Goa

Air

Dabolim Airport (GOI) is about 30 km, 45 minutes by car via the Zuari bridge and the Panjim bypass. Mopa (GOX) is about 50 km, roughly 1 h 10 min. Most guests visit Old Goa from a hotel rather than direct from the airport.

Rail

Karmali station on the Konkan Railway is about 3 km from Old Goa, five minutes by car. It is a convenient stop for trains from Mumbai and Mangaluru, though most long-distance services also stop at Madgaon and Thivim.

Road

Old Goa is ≈ 10 km · 20 min from Panjim along the Ribandar causeway. From Candolim it is ≈ 23 km · 45 min, and from Benaulim ≈ 40 km · 1 h. The Divar ferry leaves from the Old Goa jetty, a few hundred metres from the Se.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

There are no luxury hotels in Old Goa itself, and we do not recommend staying there. The closest good base is Cidade de Goa near Dona Paula, about 25 minutes away, which also puts you close to Fontainhas and the Chorao ferry. From north Goa, Taj Fort Aguada and Ahilya by the Sea are about 45 minutes, and from the south, Taj Exotica and Alila Diwa are an hour. We schedule Old Goa as a morning visit from any of them, with lunch in Panjim or on Divar.

From our planners

Five things to know

Arrive at opening time, around 9 am, to have the Basilica to yourself for half an hour.
Cover shoulders and knees; the churches are active places of worship.
The Archaeological Museum has been closed on Fridays; check current status before you travel.
Avoid 3 December and the days just before it unless you want to see the feast crowds.
Combine Old Goa with the ferry to Divar or a Ponda temple visit in the afternoon.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Old Goa

Is Old Goa worth visiting?

Yes. Old Goa is the most important historic site in the state and one of the major Christian heritage sites in Asia. The Basilica of Bom Jesus, the Se Cathedral and St Augustine's tower show the scale of the Portuguese capital in a single morning, 20 minutes from Panjim.

Why is Old Goa a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

UNESCO listed the Churches and Convents of Goa in 1986. They were recognised for spreading forms of Manueline, Mannerist and Baroque church architecture across Asia, and for their role in the history of Christianity in the region. The Basilica of Bom Jesus and the Se are the centrepieces.

How much time do you need in Old Goa?

Half a day with a guide covers the Basilica of Bom Jesus, the Se Cathedral, the Church of St Francis of Assisi and the museum. Add an hour or two for the Holy Hill and St Augustine's tower. A full day lets you add the Divar ferry or the Ponda temples.

Is there an entry fee for Old Goa churches?

The churches themselves have been free to enter. The Archaeological Museum charges a small fee and has been closed on Fridays. Fees and opening days are set by the Archaeological Survey of India and the church authorities, so check current status before you travel.

What is the dress code at Old Goa?

Cover shoulders and knees, men and women alike, and remove hats inside. Beachwear is not appropriate. Light cotton trousers or a long skirt and a shirt with sleeves work well in the heat. Some churches lend wraps at the door, but it is better to come prepared.

Can I see St Francis Xavier's body?

Yes. His body lies in a silver casket in a side chapel of the Basilica of Bom Jesus, visible from below. It is brought down for a close public exposition roughly once a decade, most recently from November 2024 to January 2025.

What is the best time of day to visit Old Goa?

Opening time, around 9 am, before the day-trip coaches arrive, is best for the Basilica and the Se. The Holy Hill and St Augustine's tower are at their best in the late afternoon light. Midday in the open lawns is hot from March to May.

How do I get from Panjim to Old Goa?

Old Goa is about 10 km from Panjim along the Ribandar causeway, about 20 minutes by car. Local buses run frequently but are crowded. We use a private car with driver, which also lets you continue to Divar or the Ponda temples afterwards.

Can I visit Old Goa in the monsoon?

Yes. The churches are indoors, and the lawns and laterite are at their greenest from July to September. Carry rain gear and expect sudden heavy showers. Monsoon is also much quieter, with few coach groups, which makes the churches easier to enjoy.