Agonda: a long beach and its turtles
Agonda is what many people hope Palolem will be: a long, wide beach between two headlands, with clear water, a fishing village at one end and only a line of low beach restaurants and cottages behind the sand. Village rules keep the beach free of loud music and late-night parties, and it is quiet even in late December.
We arrive in the morning or late afternoon for a walk the length of the beach and a swim near the lifeguard tower. At the northern end, a section of beach is protected as a nesting site for olive ridley turtles from about November to March. With a naturalist, you can visit the guarded hatchery and, with luck, see hatchlings released at dawn later in the season.
Lunch is at one of the better beach restaurants, with fish caught that morning. The drive back to Palolem or Rajbag takes 20 to 30 minutes.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Is Agonda better than Palolem?
For quiet, yes. Agonda's beach is longer and emptier, with fewer cafés and a no-loud-music rule. Palolem is prettier as a bay, calmer for swimming and has more choice of restaurants. We suggest a day on each.
When do turtles nest at Agonda?
Olive ridleys nest on Agonda's protected section from about November to March, with hatchlings emerging from about January to April. Numbers vary from year to year, and access is controlled by the forest department; check current status before you travel.
Is Agonda beach safe for swimming?
From November to April, in calm seas, yes, near the lifeguard tower. Currents can be strong at times and near the headlands. Do not swim after dark or in the monsoon, when the sea is rough across Goa.
Also in Palolem, Agonda and Canacona
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