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Varkalaculture

Anjengo Fort and Kappil's lagoon

A half-day drive along the coast to Anjengo, one of the East India Company's earliest trading posts in Kerala, built in the 1690s on a narrow strip between lagoon and sea, followed by the quiet beach at Kappil where the backwaters meet the Arabian Sea.
Anjengo Fort and Kappil's lagoon
Photo: Prasanthvembayam · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Anjengo, or Anchuthengu, lies about 12 km south of Varkala on a thin spit of land between a lagoon and the sea. The East India Company obtained permission from the local queen of Attingal to build a factory here in the 1690s, and the small laterite fort became an important post for pepper and calico. It is now protected by the Archaeological Survey of India.

Inside the walls are the ramparts and an old British cemetery with some of the earliest European graves in Kerala. Nearby stands a tall lighthouse, which can usually be climbed for views along the coast, and the Portuguese-era church of the fishing village. Your guide explains how this small post linked Kerala's pepper to the wider British trade.

We then drive north past Varkala to Kappil, where the Edava-Nadayara lagoon almost touches the sea, separated only by a strip of sand. It is a quiet beach with few visitors. A short boat ride on the lagoon is possible. The trip takes about half a day, and works well in the morning or in the late afternoon with sunset at Kappil.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Is Anjengo Fort worth visiting?

Yes, for those interested in colonial history. It is small and quiet, with ramparts, a British cemetery and a lighthouse, and gives a sense of how the East India Company first established itself on the Kerala coast in the 1690s. Allow about an hour. Check current status before you travel, as opening hours vary.

Can you climb the Anjengo lighthouse?

Usually yes, during set visiting hours for a small fee. The climb is steep and narrow inside, but the view along the coast and over the lagoon is excellent. Hours and access are set by the lighthouse authorities, so check current status before you travel.

What is special about Kappil beach?

At Kappil, the Edava-Nadayara backwater comes within a few metres of the sea, separated only by a sand bar, so you see lagoon and ocean side by side. It is much quieter than Varkala's main beaches. Swimming is not recommended because of currents.

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