Papanasam beach and Sivagiri ashram
Papanasam means destroyer of sins, and for centuries Hindu families have come to this beach below the cliff to perform bali tharpanam, offerings of rice balls and flowers for the souls of ancestors, guided by priests sitting on the sand. Early morning is when most rites take place. We watch quietly from the steps with a guide who explains the ritual, and never photograph families during ceremonies.
We climb to the Janardanaswamy temple, dedicated to Vishnu, which stands on the hill above the beach. Only Hindus may enter the inner temple, but your guide shows you the outer area, the temple pond and the story of the ship's bell said to have been given by a Dutch captain whose ship was saved after he prayed here.
Sivagiri lies about 3 km inland. Here Sree Narayana Guru, one of Kerala's most important social reformers, founded an ashram and was buried in 1928. His teaching of one caste, one religion and one god for humanity transformed attitudes to caste in Kerala. The calm samadhi shrine is open to all. Every year from 30 December to 1 January, the Sivagiri pilgrimage brings large crowds of devotees in yellow.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Can non-Hindus visit Sivagiri?
Yes. The Sivagiri ashram and the samadhi of Sree Narayana Guru are open to people of all faiths, in keeping with his teaching. Dress modestly, remove shoes where asked and keep quiet near the shrine. The main pilgrimage from 30 December to 1 January is very crowded.
Can non-Hindus enter the Janardanaswamy temple?
The inner temple is open only to Hindus, and a dress code applies. Non-Hindus may usually see the outer area and temple pond. Rules are set by the temple administration, so check current status before you travel and follow your guide's advice on site.
What is bali tharpanam at Papanasam?
It is a ritual offering for the souls of ancestors, performed by family members with a priest, using rice balls, flowers and water, which are then given to the sea. The largest gathering takes place on Karkidaka Vavu, the new moon in July or August. Visitors should watch respectfully and not photograph.
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