Saspol cave temples above the Indus

Saspol is a village on the north bank of the Indus, opposite Alchi. Above it, a cliff is dotted with caves, some once used as temples and meditation retreats. A few still contain painted images of Buddhist deities, dated by scholars to around the 13th to 15th centuries, with vivid blues, reds and greens. The village below has fields, willows and small chortens along the road. It is a short drive from Alchi.

The climb from the village is short but steep, on a rough path, taking about 20 minutes. Inside, the caves are small and dim; a torch helps. The paintings are damaged in places but still impressive. The ruins of an old fort sit on the ridge above. Good shoes are essential, and a walking pole helps on the loose path. Take the climb slowly at this altitude. Your guide explains each image.

From the caves, the view takes in the Indus, the green fields of Saspol and Alchi across the river. We time the visit for late afternoon, when the light is warm on the cliffs. It pairs well with a morning at the Alchi Choskhor. Bring water and sun protection, as there is no shade on the cliff. The descent takes about 15 minutes. Combine it with a morning at Alchi for a full day.