The Indus road to Hanle via Chumathang

We leave Leh early and follow the Indus south past Thiksey and Karu to Upshi, where the Manali road branches off. The Indus valley narrows into a gorge, with the river green and fast between red and grey cliffs. At Chumathang, about 140 km from Leh, hot springs bubble up by the river; a short stop and tea here break the drive. The river's colour changes with the light. Stops are frequent.

Beyond Chumathang, the valley widens into the grasslands around Mahe and Nyoma. Changpa nomads graze yaks and goats here, and kiang are often seen. At Loma the road turns south-east into the Hanle valley, a wide plain ringed by low mountains, with the monastery visible from far away. The plains around Nyoma are wide and open, and the light here is very clear. Herds of yaks and goats graze beside the road.

The drive is about 255 km and takes seven hours with stops. We carry a picnic lunch and plenty of water. Arrive in Hanle in the afternoon, rest, then climb to the monastery for sunset before a night of stars. Fuel up in Leh before leaving, as stations along the route are few. Carry snacks and warm layers for the evening. Rest on arrival before the evening's stargazing. Water is carried in the car.