Kiang and cranes on the Hanle plains

The Hanle valley is part of the Changthang Cold Desert, a region of wide plains, marshes and low hills that supports a surprising amount of wildlife. Kiang, the Tibetan wild ass, graze in small herds, and Tibetan wolves and red foxes hunt across the grasslands. The wetlands along the Hanle river are a breeding ground for black-necked cranes in summer. Few visitors come here. Mornings are the best time to look for animals.

We set out at dawn with a local naturalist, driving slowly along tracks and stopping to scan with binoculars and a spotting scope. Kiang are usually easy to find and often curious. Cranes nest in the marshes and must be watched from a distance. Pallas's cat, a small, round-faced wild cat, has been recorded around Hanle but is rarely seen. Bring binoculars and warm layers. Patience brings the best sightings.

The morning ends with breakfast back at the homestay. Wildlife sightings are never guaranteed, but the light, the silence and the scale of the landscape make it worthwhile. Please follow the guide's instructions about distance from nesting birds and animals. Bring binoculars, a camera with a long lens and warm layers, as early mornings are cold even in summer. The naturalist carries a spotting scope and field guides. Drones are not allowed.