Tea with Changpa nomads

The Changpa are pastoral nomads of the Changthang, the high plateau that stretches from eastern Ladakh into Tibet. They herd yaks, sheep and the goats whose soft undercoat is the source of pashmina wool. In summer, families move with the animals to high pastures around Tso Moriri, Tso Kar and the Puga valley, living in black yak-hair tents called rebo. Their way of life is changing fast. Visits are short.

We arrange visits through local contacts and guides, so the families expect us and are paid fairly for their time. You may see women milking goats, children herding, and the spinning of wool by hand. Inside the tent, the hearth burns dried dung, and butter tea and tsampa are offered. Accept the tea, even if you sip only a little. Children are curious and friendly. Ask before taking photographs. Sit and listen.

Pashmina is combed from the goats in spring, and families sell the raw fibre to cooperatives in Leh. Life is hard at 4,500 m and many young Changpa now move to Leh for school and work. Please be respectful with cameras, ask before photographing, and keep visits small. Locations change with the grazing, so we confirm a day or two ahead. Allow about three hours. Bring warm layers. Gloves help too.