Return via Tso Kar and Taglang La

From Korzok we drive north past Kiagar Tso to Sumdo and the Puga valley, where steam rises from geothermal vents and the ground is yellow with sulphur. The track then crosses the grassy plains towards Tso Kar, the white lake, named for the salt that crusts its shores. Changpa families once harvested this salt and traded it across the region. The light here is extraordinary. It is wild country. Stop often.

Tso Kar sits at about 4,530 m and is shallow and brackish. Its smaller freshwater neighbour, Startsapuk Tso, attracts birds, and kiang are often seen grazing nearby. We stop for a picnic lunch by the shore, sheltered from the wind if possible. The wind can be strong in the afternoon, so we stop in the lee of the hills where possible. Bar-headed geese and black-necked cranes have been seen here in summer.

From Tso Kar the road joins the Leh–Manali highway at Debring and crosses Taglang La at 5,328 m before dropping through Gya and Rumtse to Upshi and the Indus. The full day from Korzok to Leh is about 240 km and eight hours with stops. Some of the Puga section is unpaved and slow. Check current status before you travel. Carry warm layers. Rest on arrival in Leh. Hot showers await.