Panauti, a Newar town where rivers meet

Panauti lies in a small valley south of Dhulikhel, about 7 km and 20 minutes away by road, where the Roshi and Punyamati rivers meet. Hindus believe a third, invisible river joins them here, which makes the confluence especially sacred. The town was once a stop on the trade route towards Tibet, and its brick houses, carved windows and stone-paved squares are among the best preserved in Nepal, with fewer concrete buildings than in larger towns and very few visitors on most days.

At the centre is the Indreshwar Mahadev temple, a pagoda dedicated to Shiva and often counted among the finest in Nepal, with carved roof struts that are much admired. Down at the river, the ghats at the confluence are lined with small shrines and cremation platforms. Every twelve years a large fair, the Makar Mela, draws pilgrims to the confluence. Our guide explains the town's festivals and the stories of its temples as we walk from the square down to the water.

The walk takes two to three hours at an easy pace, through lanes where farmers spread grain to dry and craftspeople work at their doorsteps. There are only a few simple cafés, and a small fee may apply to foreign visitors; check current status before you travel. We often visit Panauti on the way to or from Namobuddha, about 30 minutes beyond, making a full and varied day from Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel. It is also a pleasant last stop before the drive back to Kathmandu.