Row the clear Umngot river at Dawki
The famous photographs of Dawki depend on two things: clear water and overhead light. The river is clearest from December to March, and the sun reaches into the gorge from about 10 am. We aim to be at the ghat by 9:30, ahead of the day-trip buses from Shillong. A local boatman rows you upstream into the gorge, past rock walls and fishing spots, and back.
The boats are narrow wooden craft with a plank seat, paddled or poled by the boatman. Life jackets are provided and should be worn. A typical ride lasts 30 to 45 minutes, and longer rides further upstream can be arranged. Fares are fixed per boat by the local association; your guide confirms the rate before you board.
The best view of the effect is often from above, so after the ride we walk onto the rocks or stop near the 1932 suspension bridge, where you look straight down on the boats. Photographers should bring a polarising filter, which cuts reflection and shows the riverbed clearly.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is the Umngot river clearest?
From December to March, and generally from November to April. During the monsoon from June to September the river is brown and fast, and boating usually stops. October can be clear in a dry year but is less reliable. Visit between 10 am and 1 pm for the best overhead light.
How much does a boat ride at Dawki cost?
Fares are set per boat, not per person, by the local boat association, and change from season to season. Agree the fare at the ghat before boarding, or let your guide handle it. Weekends and holidays may bring longer queues rather than higher fares.
Is the Dawki boat ride safe?
Yes, in the dry season, when the river is calm and slow. Life jackets are provided and should be worn, especially by children. Boating is suspended when the river is high in the monsoon. Keep cameras in a dry bag and stay seated in the narrow boats.
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